You can gig $200 basses.
What are YOUR expectations?
What are YOUR expectations?
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Are cheap bass expectations too high?
- Thread starter MultiScaleMale
- Start date
I expect that when I buy a bass I will not have to upgrade parts to make it reasonably playable and that is the case with my Squier. For me, and regarding my "cheap" Squier CV 70s Jazz, maybe the fit and finish gap has narrowed to some degree but not the headache one
I will say this, I was initially blown away by my Squier CV Jazz. I was razzle-dazzled by the neck (even though I thought it had too much gloss and I've never held a VM or CV that didn't), hotter-than-expected pickups, and the vintage vibe seemed pretty well done for the price point. For the first week or so I was almost kicking myself for buying my Player P about two years earlier, and could see why this line frequently gets such rave reviews. It's put together very nicely no doubt about it and the fretwork is great.
From my standpoint, once I got digging into it and the Talkbass Squier Dogma faded, the overall quality became more apparent. The cheap tuners drove me crazy (e.g., retuning constantly, uneven grooves in the machines), the pickups really only good for copping the Geddy chainsaw tone, and the neck couldn't hold an adjustment for ****. Long story short, it's in my "mothball fleet" and I'm still deciding what to do with it. New pups and tuners would be nice, but now we're approaching a total cost that would equal or exceed a Fender Player series. I digress...Are my expectations too high? Perhaps. But it should hold tune for at least a session and an adjustment for more than a week.
Years back I bought my MIM Fender Jazz for about what I recently paid for the Squier, and should have either went that route again or saved my money. There is a reason they are cheaper and carry a different name.
I will say this, I was initially blown away by my Squier CV Jazz. I was razzle-dazzled by the neck (even though I thought it had too much gloss and I've never held a VM or CV that didn't), hotter-than-expected pickups, and the vintage vibe seemed pretty well done for the price point. For the first week or so I was almost kicking myself for buying my Player P about two years earlier, and could see why this line frequently gets such rave reviews. It's put together very nicely no doubt about it and the fretwork is great.
From my standpoint, once I got digging into it and the Talkbass Squier Dogma faded, the overall quality became more apparent. The cheap tuners drove me crazy (e.g., retuning constantly, uneven grooves in the machines), the pickups really only good for copping the Geddy chainsaw tone, and the neck couldn't hold an adjustment for ****. Long story short, it's in my "mothball fleet" and I'm still deciding what to do with it. New pups and tuners would be nice, but now we're approaching a total cost that would equal or exceed a Fender Player series. I digress...Are my expectations too high? Perhaps. But it should hold tune for at least a session and an adjustment for more than a week.
Years back I bought my MIM Fender Jazz for about what I recently paid for the Squier, and should have either went that route again or saved my money. There is a reason they are cheaper and carry a different name.
Are you saying a bass priced at $1,199 20 years ago is a cheap bass?
It's way more than I've ever paid for any bass (today even), and way more than anyone who doesn't have their heads in the clouds should have ever expected to pay for a perfectly wonderful professional instrument.
I mean no disrespect to anyone who wants to buy a boutique bass. but a grand is a lot to pay for any bass, in 2000 or in 2020.
The tech hasn't really changed in many many decades.
the ACTUALLY cheap basses are quite good now.
It's way more than I've ever paid for any bass (today even), and way more than anyone who doesn't have their heads in the clouds should have ever expected to pay for a perfectly wonderful professional instrument.
I mean no disrespect to anyone who wants to buy a boutique bass. but a grand is a lot to pay for any bass, in 2000 or in 2020.
The tech hasn't really changed in many many decades.
the ACTUALLY cheap basses are quite good now.
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I would not consider a $1000 bass a cheap bass.
But to answer, in today's time, there is not much difference between a $300 bass and a $1000 bass other than the finish. The tuners & bridge may have a name stamped on it, but both work fine for many years.
But to answer, in today's time, there is not much difference between a $300 bass and a $1000 bass other than the finish. The tuners & bridge may have a name stamped on it, but both work fine for many years.
I sound the same on both. Cheap or expensive/boutique, I always sound like me. I don't have "unlimited budget", I never had, so I afford the best I can - when possible, when money/situation permits. And I always go used, deals are much more significant on the used market.
Are cheap bass expectations too high? Depends on who's buying. It's all personal matter I think. Interesting questions but in the end, folks show up in a bar/venue to have fun and to be entertained. 99% of that crowd will not care what you play.
Are cheap bass expectations too high? Depends on who's buying. It's all personal matter I think. Interesting questions but in the end, folks show up in a bar/venue to have fun and to be entertained. 99% of that crowd will not care what you play.
Hi. I'm new here. But I'm curious: If you buy, for example, a $300 bass and a $900 bass both from known brands, what is the main difference for the price? It it body and neck or electronics? Or both?
As a comparison, take a look at a Trek mountain bike. For a certain line you might pay $599 for the basic bike and twice that for the higher limit in that line. Both will have the same frame, forks, and handle bars, but the shifters, brakes, and gears will be much better and more reliable on the expensive one.
Therefore, some folks will opt to get the cheapest bike (since the frames are the same) and add their own upgrade components later.
I'm wondering if basses are like that as well.
As a comparison, take a look at a Trek mountain bike. For a certain line you might pay $599 for the basic bike and twice that for the higher limit in that line. Both will have the same frame, forks, and handle bars, but the shifters, brakes, and gears will be much better and more reliable on the expensive one.
Therefore, some folks will opt to get the cheapest bike (since the frames are the same) and add their own upgrade components later.
I'm wondering if basses are like that as well.
Holey Moley! My $1000 Fender Classic 50's Lacquer is one of the best instruments I've ever picked up - this includes many brass instruments over the years too. You can be choosy and pick the best - I'm sure there are some turds for a grand out there too.... On the whole it's hard to beat the current moment for quality products as a less than botique price point.
That is some good writing there. I appreciate that your opinions are tempered with phrases like "I don't know" and "could be". It shows integrity and credibility. Very refreshing these days. Thank you.
I've been buying and around basses since the mid/late 70's, so that's almost 50 years ago ( . . . . how did I get so damn old . . . .). In that time, my general observation is that quality has steadily improved while some prices have stayed around the same in the same neighborhood: 1-2 thousand dollar basses has always been the price point for 'serious' instruments, with boutique basses out past that, and down to 5 or 600 dollar basses have always been around. The difference these days is that the build quality and hardware/electronics are just better at any of the price points.
The real difference is the explosion of really great axes under 500 bucks. Back in the 70's anything down there was rank plywood junk, period. Guys collect these Eko's and Teisco's, etc., these days as funky collector pieces: It was different when all you afford was one of those brand new as one of your few choices if you couldn't afford a new Precision or Ripper.
Of course, driving all of this is offshore production enabling price-point/content combinations that would not be available otherwise, and the global adoption of digital production methods has eliminated most variability in QC regardless of where it's built.
Today, the final MSRP is a direct sum of the combining of WHERE it's built, and how much TIME was invested.
You can very nearly plot a geographical map of where this or that was built by price, the cheapest in Malaysia or Viet Nam, through Korea or the Czech Republic, to American, Western European, or genuine Japanese production for off the rack instruments. 'Boutique' basses are their own world.
For me, there has never been a time with more good choices at great prices, it's very hard to buy a 'bad' bass. When I started, it was Fenders, with some Gibsons and some Rics and a few other odds and ends, and they could vary enough it was not uncommon for accomplished players to try more than a few until they found a 'good one'. And then, Hartley's introduction of the T40 completely re-shuffled the deck . . . .
That's no longer required: Dimensionally they're all consistent, the only variable being the particular weight of the wood in any given axe. Remarkable.
The real difference is the explosion of really great axes under 500 bucks. Back in the 70's anything down there was rank plywood junk, period. Guys collect these Eko's and Teisco's, etc., these days as funky collector pieces: It was different when all you afford was one of those brand new as one of your few choices if you couldn't afford a new Precision or Ripper.
Of course, driving all of this is offshore production enabling price-point/content combinations that would not be available otherwise, and the global adoption of digital production methods has eliminated most variability in QC regardless of where it's built.
Today, the final MSRP is a direct sum of the combining of WHERE it's built, and how much TIME was invested.
You can very nearly plot a geographical map of where this or that was built by price, the cheapest in Malaysia or Viet Nam, through Korea or the Czech Republic, to American, Western European, or genuine Japanese production for off the rack instruments. 'Boutique' basses are their own world.
For me, there has never been a time with more good choices at great prices, it's very hard to buy a 'bad' bass. When I started, it was Fenders, with some Gibsons and some Rics and a few other odds and ends, and they could vary enough it was not uncommon for accomplished players to try more than a few until they found a 'good one'. And then, Hartley's introduction of the T40 completely re-shuffled the deck . . . .
That's no longer required: Dimensionally they're all consistent, the only variable being the particular weight of the wood in any given axe. Remarkable.
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To some degree, the analogy is accurate. The major differences between a $300 Squier P bass and a USA made P bass would be electronics, neck quality and fretwork finish. Its often worthwhile to buy a lower-cost bass and upgrade it, but it can oftentimes cost you more than just buying the better bass to begin with. I recently bought a Fender MIM Players P bass, paid around $650 for it. I upgraded the electronics to Geezers, changed out all of the hardware to black, and changed the maple neck to a Warmoth Roasted maple/Rosewood neck. Even allowing for selling what I took off of the bass, I probably have about $1k into it. I probably could purchase an equal or better bass for that price, but I have one that is set up the way that I want it to be.
agree 100% with you. The Fender player series for example at +/- $700 are great, and the Squiers at +/- $300 are just fine instruments as well. I do think that the quality of higher-priced basses has gone up, as there is alot more competition these days.
Thanks, BH. Those of us of a certain age and experience . . . can see just how far it's all come. Amps today vs. the 70's are like going from a P51 to an F22. It's been amazing to watch.
How much value is in the neck? I lose my mind if an instrument can't stay in tune. Does a cheap bass have a neck that is more prone to warping? Or are all necks (from the same brand) susceptible to the same amount of warping?
I had a Yamaha a few years ago that was about $300. As long as I didn't bump a tuning key against something it stayed in tune. It never strayed.
Basses are better about staying in tune. I've had $200 six string electrics that I've tuned up, looked at funny, and they drop their tune. Cheap six strings are a whole different animal. Not sure why.
I can work with anything but a junk neck. I've bought 2 brand new basses in my life. A $200 Squier and a $825 Fender. The Squier will sit disassembled in the case until I can find a decent neck for it. I set the neck up on the $825 Fender 3 years ago and haven't had to touch it since. I've replaced just about everything else on the bass since then, but the neck has been rock solid.
Generally, cheap basses are better than they've ever been. Does that mean they are all good. No. The quality standards are looser, as they need to be in order to meet that price point. Does this mean they are all Junk? No. They just roll out with a broader range of quality. Try before you buy.
$1200 is definitely not cheap.
As others have said, price has come down and quality has shot up with the use of accurate automation. Unless the bass fetches your slippers for you, above a price point of around 500 quid, give or take, you're mostly paying for gimmicks, limited editions, overpriced brand names, rarities and hand made stuff.
As others have said, price has come down and quality has shot up with the use of accurate automation. Unless the bass fetches your slippers for you, above a price point of around 500 quid, give or take, you're mostly paying for gimmicks, limited editions, overpriced brand names, rarities and hand made stuff.
