pablomigraine said:
FDECK...........? opinion?
My opinion is, don't ever get this horrible cold that I've got right now. Following the instructions handed down over the generations, I am getting "plenty of fluids."
CaptainWally said:
So I put a new fuse in the power jack. I put in a 1A fuse. Guy was saying it would be a T8A, but I don't think that is right for the power jack is it? Can anyone comment?
I just downloaded the ABM500 owners manual, and the picture of the back panel says 8A for 110 V operation. If you are trying a 1A fuse, it might easily pop just when you turn on the amp, due to current rushing into the power supply filter capacitors.
Anyway, after putting in the fuse, I fired it up without the fuses in the output module. The amp fired up, which I believe is an indication that the problem lies in the output module.
That would be my suspicion too. Can you confirm operation of the preamp when the power module is disabled? That would be a useful clue that the problem is not in the preamp. OTOH the power module could be powering the preamp, so it's not an acid test.
So questions:
- My transformer says 110V on it. How would I be assured the output module is also intended for 110V usage? I couldn't see any writing on it. It does say "400W bass" on it, but I guess that's just a legacy printing issue?
Here is my guess. The 110 and 220 V transformer both step down to the same secondary voltage, so there only needs to be one output module for both worlds. So far so good. The module may date back to a 400W amp product, but many power amp designs are forgiving of being run at a higher supply voltage and delivering more output power if they are overdesigned in the first place. So a legacy printing issue seems probable.
- Do you think requesting a new output module is a good way to go? (assuming Ashdown confirms this is probably the problem) Has anyone swapped one of these out before? It doesn't look too bad.
If it were me, I would try to do a bit more digging. Here is why. The output module contains the power supply and the power amp circuits. Of these, the power supply seems a likely culprit, and power supply circuits are generic enough to be diagnosed by any repair person. In other words, some troubleshooting might be possible by your local non-Ashdown tech.
I would very much like to know where that magic smoke came from, because it is possibly your best clue. Having rotten eyesight, my practice is to look in with a bright flashlight (my bike headlamp) and magnifying glass. Magic smoke typically leaves a whitish residue that will deposit on surrounding parts and on the inside of the chassis. If you can lift the power module out of the case (everything unplugged at this point, don't get fried), then you can inspect the bottom of the board. A cold solder joint might have finally decided to let go. While you do this, be careful what you grab to avoid disturbing the evidence.
Finally, there is also a chance that something on the preamp board shorted out, and if the preamp gets its power from the power module, well, you know. If you can detach the preamp board and replicate the symptoms with only the power module in place, then it is additional evidence against the power module.
I guess, long story short, look for that smoke. Whatever you do, don't detach the power transistors from the heat sink, because reassembly is a chore. Chances are, they can remain attached even when you pull the entire power module.