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Ashdowns dark sounding?

My goal for 2016 is to get an ashdown (an abm 500/600 is my ideal, if so the mag 420 or 800). My question is: do you consider this brand dark sounding? I have heard its darker than other brands like EDEN (which is great and at good price but they told me is not the best thing for the kind of sound i'm up to). But it's a characteristic of this one?
After doing research and posts, many posts, i have come to find out Ashdown is known to do very good what i'm up to (agressive midrange horn kind of sound with overdriven capabilities but with the necesarily low end needed at a power trio), but this is something i didn't take into account until now.

PD: If you consider the EDEN can do well what i'm looking for tell me, is at a lower price.

I'm a long time Trace Elliot user (AS400SM) and I use my own custom made cabs, which are very flat and "hi-fi".
I've just bought an Ashdown Routemaster 420 and here are a few observations after a week or so. The gain knob seems to need to be nearly maxxed out with my active basses. The compressor adds a lot of gain past 12 o'clock, which is odd because the manual says that the gain should stay constant through the compression. The Sub (octaver) doesn't have an on/off switch and it tracks pretty bad unless the compressor is engaged. The drive is ok, but there are better sounding op-amp based overdrives available. The 5 band EQ is very nice but I find that the amp seems to have a baked in "rock" eq which is a bit boomy on the bottom end. With this EQ, it's hard to dial in a truly flat eq. I like this amp's sound, but it does seem to have quite a dark sound at lower volume levels. As the volume (power section) gets pushed, the mids comes out more and the boomy bottom end seems to tighten up nicely.
In a comparison with my trusty Trace...sorry guys but my Trace does sound better, sounds louder for my 400w and also have a much more usable 7 band graphic eq. BUT...my Trace is a 25kg lead sled...and this new little 420w class D is only about 5kgs max. It's small and light...and it certainly sounds good enough for most gigs.
 
I am an Ashdown user (and lover actually). I play in a rock band and we play covers of foo fighters and similar. I can compare it to Aguilar or Ampeg. I found the Ashdown less straightforward (mine is an ABM EVO II). I like "hot sounds", a little overdriven (as you said you wanted to sound). With the valve in the pre you can do that, but you will have to scoop the a little bit the mids and the highs. In my case: mids are 1 o'clock and highs at 1:30-2. I also scoop the faders, but not too much (even the low-mids). All I can say is that it sounds incredible.
With a Tone-Hammer you can have a really really good sound just with everything set at 12. And with the gain, you can add some overdrive. It will work too, maybe even better (it depends on your taste of course).
Is Ashdown darker? I'd say no, but it has more lows than Aguilar or Eden without doing anything in the eq. It is also easier to get an overdriven sound from the Aguilar (but I don't think it's too easy from Eden). If you are gonna play in a power trio, I'd recommend Ashdown. You will always move in the lows, but you have enough clarity to cut through the mix if you do some solos in the higher notes.
 
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GK and ashdown guy here. I have found my GKs (700/1001/mbfusion) to feel decidedly sharp sounding in the upper mids compared to my ashdown gear (CTM100). The Gk goes lower, but is tighter.

I prefer the ashdown for its warmer, more harmonically rich tone.

What cabs you using? (Thinking about getting a GK Neo 410 can to use with my ABM500 head, you ever tried the combination of GK/Ashdown?)
 
I'm a long time Trace Elliot user (AS400SM) and I use my own custom made cabs, which are very flat and "hi-fi".
I've just bought an Ashdown Routemaster 420 and here are a few observations after a week or so. The gain knob seems to need to be nearly maxxed out with my active basses. The compressor adds a lot of gain past 12 o'clock, which is odd because the manual says that the gain should stay constant through the compression. The Sub (octaver) doesn't have an on/off switch and it tracks pretty bad unless the compressor is engaged. The drive is ok, but there are better sounding op-amp based overdrives available. The 5 band EQ is very nice but I find that the amp seems to have a baked in "rock" eq which is a bit boomy on the bottom end. With this EQ, it's hard to dial in a truly flat eq. I like this amp's sound, but it does seem to have quite a dark sound at lower volume levels. As the volume (power section) gets pushed, the mids comes out more and the boomy bottom end seems to tighten up nicely.
In a comparison with my trusty Trace...sorry guys but my Trace does sound better, sounds louder for my 400w and also have a much more usable 7 band graphic eq. BUT...my Trace is a 25kg lead sled...and this new little 420w class D is only about 5kgs max. It's small and light...and it certainly sounds good enough for most gigs.
Well, of course Ashdown now has the new RM-500-EVO which btw, are apparantly delayed another week, and is supposedly an upgrade to the 420 in terms of power. I'll probably end up getting one, hoping that they won't lack that girth that I prefer; I did hear one at Namm and it sounded pretty good, but that's a limited observation because of the floor showroom. An example of lacking girth would be the lower end Eden WTX500, which looses some low end balls when pushed too hard. Hopefully the RM-500 will not suffer from that. I might be a little too optimistic because the price for these is supprisingly low at $400, but so far it's the sound that's selling me right now.
 
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Ashdown definately has a warmer more vintage tone as their signature tone. ABM 500 will get you a more aggressive tone than a MAG due to the valve drive, but you'll need to heavily EQ the treble to bring out some top end. Not an issue but i've read some complaining about having "extreme" EQ settings on the ABM. I think it's just a feature of their tone and the shelving EQ. Try some of their other amps out as well like the JJ Burnel Signtaure amp, Spyder (discontinued) or the CTM100 100W valve head (if your budget will allow).
The knobs are there to be turned, after all.
 
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Well, of course Ashdown now has the new RM-500-EVO which btw, are apparantly delayed another week, and is supposedly an upgrade to the 420 in terms of power. I'll probably end up getting one, hoping that they won't lack that girth that I prefer; I did hear one at Namm and it sounded pretty good, but that's a limited observation because of the floor showroom. An example of lacking girth would be the lower end Eden WTX500, which looses some low end balls when pushed too hard. Hopefully the RM-500 will not suffer from that. I might be a little too optimistic because the price for these is supprisingly low at $400, but so far it's the sound that's selling me right now.

I've not had any power issues with my RM 420, it certainly doesn't have any bottom end issues at any of the power levels I've used it at. I'm not sure that anyone would notice the difference between 420w and 500w, the 80w difference is a bit academic. 420w to 800w, that will give an extra few clicks of headroom.
 
Had an abm 500 for years. Dark was never a word that came to mind. I recall when I got it to replace a svt3 pro it felt like there was a blanket lifted off my amp. Very clear clean sound. Never managed to get a good dirty sound from the amp tho. Even with the valve drive. I never cared for what that added...
 
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Had an abm 500 for years. Dark was never a word that came to mind. I recall when I got it to replace a svt3 pro it felt like there was a blanket lifted off my amp. Very clear clean sound. Never managed to get a good dirty sound from the amp tho. Even with the valve drive. I never cared for what that added...

To get a good valve drive sound from an Ashdown amp, I dial in a bit of pre amp overdrive from hitting the pre amp's input hard. Then I dial in some of the valve drive knob so that I get a cascaded OD sound...Then I dial down some of the upper mids and treble frequencies.
 
To get a good valve drive sound from an Ashdown amp, I dial in a bit of pre amp overdrive from hitting the pre amp's input hard. Then I dial in some of the valve drive knob so that I get a cascaded OD sound...Then I dial down some of the upper mids and treble frequencies.

Driving the input gain abit hotter is key to getting the tube stage to work.
Also, I experimented a bit with different preamp tubes, which also makes a difference in sound (currenlty I have a JJ tube in there).