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AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

Good eyes!

I have two sets of pre-cut boards left for the 1/2" larger (in each dimension) Thunderchild 212 cabs, and then when I cut more boards, it will go down to the same size as the Hathor 212.

When I originally designed the Thunderchild 212 cab, I was trying to get as much internal volume as I could cram into a shipping box with internal dimensions of 36" x 16" x 16", allowing for some protective foam padding. By the time I did the Hathor 212 cab, the little Hathor 1203 had shown me that I needn't be so concerned with maxing out the internal volume. Since then I have prototyped a Kappalite 112 cab with even smaller internal volume than the Hathor 1203.

The Hathor 212 and the slightly larger Thunderchild 212 model within a small fraction of a dB of one another on the low end. If we keep the ports the same (which we do in this case), as the box volume goes up a little, so does the tuning frequency, so the -3 dB point shifts very little. And we have plenty of excursion so a small shift in the tuning frequency is inconsequential.
Thanks for the info.
If either cab turned out to be a tad bit tighter as opposed to deeper sounding that wouldn't hurt my feelings a bit, but it sounds like the difference wouldn't show up in a double-blind test (especially since I'm double-deaf - according to my S.O.).
 
My keyboard ne fait pas those French accent marks. Not that I really know which ones to use when..
Oh, it's easy with an Italian keyboard.


Unfortunately...I don't have one (my laptop was bought in Ireland), and make extensive use of the Windows character map (start->all programs->accessories->system tools). As for knowing which goes where, I'd be useless without online dictionaries (to be honest I ain't no French speaker, just play one on TB... and don't get me started on my English)!
 
I thought to myself "what would happen if I lined up the 3 inch tweeters?"

IMG_0115.JPG
 
I just wanted to say that I put down a deposit for a Hathor 1533 and had a great talk on the phone with Duke today. As you folks already know, he was extremely helpful, informative, courteous, and clearly knows what he's talking about. I'm looking forward to playing the cab and sharing my feedback with Duke. He clearly cares about his work and that's something I can seriously appreciate these days. Thanks Duke!
 
I just wanted to say that I put down a deposit for a Hathor 1533 and had a great talk on the phone with Duke today. As you folks already know, he was extremely helpful, informative, courteous, and clearly knows what he's talking about. I'm looking forward to playing the cab and sharing my feedback with Duke. He clearly cares about his work and that's something I can seriously appreciate these days. Thanks Duke!


I'm thoroughly impressed with the 1533. Me thinks you'll likey!
 
I have a question or two particularly for those of you who have played double bass through the Hathor 1203 (comments from electric bass players welcome as well):

1. What switch settings do you usually use for the mids (bottom switch) and highs (top switch)?

And,

2. If you have the highs running fullrange (top switch up), ideally would you like a more extended and/or smoother top end?

Thanks!
 
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I have a question or two particularly for those of you who have played double bass through the Hathor 1203 (comments from electric bass players welcome as well):

1. What switch settings do you usually use for the mids (bottom switch) and highs (top switch)?

And,

2. If you have the highs running fullrange (top switch up), ideally would you like a more extended and/or smoother top end?

Thanks!

Off the top of my head, I believe I use bottom switch down, top switch up, but I will double check.
 
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Off the top of my head, I believe I use bottom switch down, top switch up, but I will double check.

Thank you Tom, that's what I would have thought would work best for upright bass, being the hi-est fi-est settings.

Relative to the Thunderchild 112, did you miss more the mids, or the highs?
 
I have a question or two particularly for those of you who have played double bass through the Hathor 1203 (comments from electric bass players welcome as well):

1. What switch settings do you usually use for the mids (bottom switch) and highs (top switch)?

And,

2. If you have the highs running fullrange (top switch up), ideally would you like a more extended and/or smoother top end?

Thanks!
Hi Duke,
I've spent the last couple of weeks with my new 1203; it's wonderful. I don't play double bass, but I do electric. With my Fender Amer Select Jazz I have the bottom switch up and the top down. With my Fender Amer Standard P Bass I love the opposite, bottom switch down and top switch up. Both basses are strung with TI flats and I'm using a Mesa Walkabout. This probably confuses more than it helps.
 
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Hi Duke,
I've spent the last couple of weeks with my new 1203; it's wonderful. I don't play double bass, but I do electric. With my Fender Amer Select Jazz I have the bottom switch up and the top down. With my Fender Amer Standard P Bass I love the opposite, bottom switch down and top switch up. Both basses are strung with TI flats. This probably confuses more than it helps.

Actually that is very helpful - it tells me both switches are useful to the same bass player, depending on what bass he's using. That's great information - thank you!
 
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I run them both up, did with electric upright and the rob Allen. But I'm profoundly lazy so it takes an act of congress for me to change the switches..

An act of congress... hmmm... would it help if I made the switches toggle left and right instead?? Just set them according to the audience demographic...
 
An act of congress... hmmm... would it help if I made the switches toggle left and right instead?? Just set them according to the audience demographic...

You'd have to build different versions depending on what state you're shipping to.

It's time to make cabs great again...
 
You'd have to build different versions depending on what state you're shipping to.

It's time to make cabs great again...

Here in Texas, I'm thinking, we don't need no stinkin' switches...