Check your bass batteries too, even if they're newish. The only time I've had batteries die on me during a gig was when I had just put in a "fresh" pair which I'd stored loose in my gig bag. They were OK for a few songs then started to distort on the low notes. I figure they had rolled around a bit and discharged against something metallic or against each other, and now I keep my spares wrapped separately in plastic to prevent possible discharge before they're used.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Avatar 3 way 15/6/tweet part 2
- Thread starter john turner
- Start date
will check for all this when I open the cab up soon. For that matter, unloaded all that gear into my garage last nite. I need to hook it all up again and see if noise is still there. Oh I was running my MAG300 head into this cab first couple sets. Then I switched to my Markbass F1 head just to try it out with this cab. The noise started late into the 4th set.
No bass-battery issue last nite, the Skyline JoBo 5 is a passive jazz bass. I ended the nite running my 18' long, instrument cable into the PA board coming thru mains and abit of floor monitor at me. Worked well enough to finish the nite
Hope the issue is as minor as just a loose something.
peace, e.
No bass-battery issue last nite, the Skyline JoBo 5 is a passive jazz bass. I ended the nite running my 18' long, instrument cable into the PA board coming thru mains and abit of floor monitor at me. Worked well enough to finish the nite
Hope the issue is as minor as just a loose something.
peace, e.
And as I stated in another TB153 thread, the noise seemed like it was coming directly out of the 6" mid. Not sure if that means the little speaker is torn or that the Xover is toast. Course, I'll check for loose screws, wires unsoldered, etc.
How might I check for bad Xover or torn mid? Gona open the cab up this week. Thanks all.
This thread has been very quiet for a while now. Are people still using their TB153 cabs, or have people moved on now?
I purchased a 4-ohm TB153 from Dave in January, and I've really enjoyed it. Whenever I switch back to my old 410 cabs, it sounds like I'm missing something.
My biggest problem is that it was a pain in the rear to move around, so I left it over in our rehearsal space. Now I don't get to play it at home.
So, I'm thinking of getting another for home, possibly with a reversed baffle so that, in a pinch, I could combine the two into a massive rig for playing outdoors on occasion.
I purchased a 4-ohm TB153 from Dave in January, and I've really enjoyed it. Whenever I switch back to my old 410 cabs, it sounds like I'm missing something.
My biggest problem is that it was a pain in the rear to move around, so I left it over in our rehearsal space. Now I don't get to play it at home.
So, I'm thinking of getting another for home, possibly with a reversed baffle so that, in a pinch, I could combine the two into a massive rig for playing outdoors on occasion.
I was REALLLY intending to get one of them, until I realized that it just wasn't the sound for me. Technology-wise, yeah, they're the best bang/$ on the manufactured market, IMO.
But, I've since found that a full-range woofer cab is really MY preference.
But, I've since found that a full-range woofer cab is really MY preference.
Was a lot of initial hype but not sure why folks would have moved on. I think for the money these cabs are still hard to beat. Still happily using mine. In fact used last Thurs night with my GK MB800 and P Bass for soul/r&b gig in medium size restaurant/bar. It was fantastic. Nice and full sounding. Since it's a essentially the same size as a 4x10 cab and on the light side with neo woofer I find it's not too bad to move around. I have a small hand truck that I use and when I need to can actually pickup and carry myself with 2 hands. I have contemplated adding wheels to the bottom to make it easier.
Not sure what you mean by full range woofer cab. These are full range, 3 way cabs with woofer, midrange and tweeter. I usually have my tweeter set at 1/2 way point and leave it there. Typically I'll back off treble on amp and when I need more just set it flat.
My only beef with these cab was the cosmetics but I fixed that with a new grill and screw cap covers.
Not sure what you mean by full range woofer cab. These are full range, 3 way cabs with woofer, midrange and tweeter. I usually have my tweeter set at 1/2 way point and leave it there. Typically I'll back off treble on amp and when I need more just set it flat.
My only beef with these cab was the cosmetics but I fixed that with a new grill and screw cap covers.
Could be. Feel like I can dial in or out as much low mids as I need. Haven't found that with other cabs.
Agreed. With a few turns of the EQ knobs I can get my fEARfuls exactly where I want.
What I meant by "full range woofer" is that the entire audible signal is fed to woofers. No crossover, no mid, no tweeter. The "ancient" method, if you will.
My current cab is an old 15" square-mag POS that I WOULD hate if it didn't just have this totally sweet mid-range thing going on with my Jbass...it's kind of nasty in a good way
My current cab is an old 15" square-mag POS that I WOULD hate if it didn't just have this totally sweet mid-range thing going on with my Jbass...it's kind of nasty in a good way
And no sir, I've no special love for that low-mid hump. I dislike the over-zealous "boom". I don't play with a lot of lows, or low mids. Enough to have "authority", yes, but I just prefer to be heard via my mids.
However, I will, sooner or later, have a speaker cabinet that won't force me to compromise on such matters
However, I will, sooner or later, have a speaker cabinet that won't force me to compromise on such matters
What I meant by "full range woofer" is that the entire audible signal is fed to woofers. No crossover, no mid, no tweeter. The "ancient" method, if you will.
My current cab is an old 15" square-mag POS that I WOULD hate if it didn't just have this totally sweet mid-range thing going on with my Jbass...it's kind of nasty in a good way
Ah, got it. I like 15's for a lot of stuff, especially for old school thump. I've found the mid and tweeter can be quite prominent in the the TB153 under some circumstances but nothing that can't be adjusted with my current amp line-up. GK MB800 for gigs, Carvin R600 for rehearsals, sometimes using a Tone Hammer for preamp into output section of amps. Much as I loved it for other reasons, I was never able to dial out the mid hump in my Markbass LMKII with any cabs.
Good question!
Currently, I'm strongly considering going through with the single 3015 box I drew up a couple years back. However, I just became aware of the Dayton Audio PA380-8, which appears to be around 75% of a 3015 at $200 cheaper. Heavy iron mag, yes, but not a problem for me.
So now, I'm considering building a 215 around the Daytons, which would be a damn loud cab for sure. Not quite into Dually territory, but it should be able to hold its own in a high-volume environment.
As far as the amp goes, I wish I knew
The fact is, there are many heads that would work for me, it's just a matter of finding the right one at the right price at the right time. That said, I really truly love the idea of a BX500 with a VT bass driving the front end. That way, I'd have an extremely flexible clean tone, that can be foot-switched over to raw Ampeg snarl and growl instantly, neato!
I just glanced at the specs, and I couldn't help but notice that the Dayton driver has only about half the rated XMax of the 3015lf. That's a huge difference in volume of air moved.
I was talking about the 3015 NON-LF It's only .9mm down in xmax vs the non-lf 3015. Which still puts it WELL beyond a large number of 15" drivers, and once price is considered, I don't see much more bang/$ anywhere else.
It's only .9mm down in xmax vs the non-lf 3015. Which still puts it WELL beyond a large number of 15" drivers, and once price is considered, I don't see much more bang/$ anywhere else.
Only thing I'll say is that I have bought alot of amps and cabs over the last 9 years. I've learned that its best to buy/build the best you possibly can. Otherwise, down the road you'll be selling and looking to buy again... which is not cost effective at all. I learned that the hard way.Good question!
Currently, I'm strongly considering going through with the single 3015 box I drew up a couple years back. However, I just became aware of the Dayton Audio PA380-8, which appears to be around 75% of a 3015 at $200 cheaper. Heavy iron mag, yes, but not a problem for me.
So now, I'm considering building a 215 around the Daytons, which would be a damn loud cab for sure. Not quite into Dually territory, but it should be able to hold its own in a high-volume environment.
As far as the amp goes, I wish I knew
Best of luck with it.
True, I'm not ever going to refute that. All I'm saying is that a driver that's got decent specs for $75 vs $300 for a best-in-class performance is a big enough savings that it's worth my starving self to consider.
Actually, I just crunched some numbers, and it looks like the 3015 has a VD of roughly double the Dayton :-/ So, perhaps just scraping pennies together for the 3015 is more logical.
Actually, I just crunched some numbers, and it looks like the 3015 has a VD of roughly double the Dayton :-/ So, perhaps just scraping pennies together for the 3015 is more logical.
