Double Bass Baby Bass megathread

[Francois Blais]

Is there a big bolt at the center of the dented wheel of each tuner?
Check they're not slack.
Actually, the rattle may come from somewhere else, as strange as it may seem.
The head is acting like a vibration pump, and amplifies them.
It may come under the bridge plate, there's a lot of metallic parts there.
I'd first remove the bridge protector, then check all the screws on the bridge plate and underneath.

 

[65AmpegBB4]

Is there a big bolt at the center of the dented wheel of each tuner?
Check they're not slack.
Actually, the rattle may come from somewhere else, as strange as it may seem.
The head is acting like a vibration pump, and amplifies them.
It may come under the bridge plate, there's a lot of metallic parts there.
I'd first remove the bridge protector, then check all the screws on the bridge plate and underneath.

I checked all the bolts at the center of the gears/dented wheels - though they weren’t loose, they allowed an extra 1/4 of a turn or so. I really didn’t want to turn them too tight as I don’t know how tight they are supposed to be.

I can see the point about the pegbox possibly amplifying a sound from elsewhere, however, one of the things that the video doesn’t portray well is that the noise mainly happens right when I pluck the A or E string, and being that my head is right next to the pegbox, I can clearly hear the “click” originating from the pegbox.

 

[Francois Blais]

A crack in the pegbox?

 

[65AmpegBB4]

A crack in the pegbox?

Can’t find one either, BUT, the finish/paint inside the pegbox has been chipping off due to wear/age - maybe, just maybe, it may be the cracked paint resonating?

 

[DoubleMIDI]

In most cases it is the screw that goes into the peg that was coming loose due to a lot of winding when putting on a set of strings.

 

[65AmpegBB4]

In most cases it is the screw that goes into the peg that was coming loose due to a lot of winding when putting on a set of strings.

The screws are not loose, however, I didn't put much force when tightening them as I don't know if that will affect the worm-gear functionality of the machines - I was thinking that the tighter they are, the more difficult it is for the gear wheel to turn? Should I tighten them more, cut the strings (which I'm trying to stay away from), both?

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Well, I listened to the video this time. Hard to identify but doesn't sound like a loose peg screw.

The peg screws should be a bit harder to turn than when they are loose, but not too tight because then it would become hard to turn the gears.

You can stuff some foam into the pegbox so that the excess string length can not rattle against the peg box. If it doesn't change anything, it is not the excess strings and you don't need to cut.

I usually move my ear along the pegbox while playing to find the position in the pegbox where the rattle is the loudest. That can help a lot.

 

[farace]

A shot in the dark, but any chance the strings are rattling in the nut? Like maybe some slots are too wide or something like that?

 

[Francois Blais]

A shot in the dark, but any chance the strings are rattling in the nut? Like maybe some slots are too wide or something like that?

Good idea!
This would happen only with open strings though, so if this is what's happening, then Bob may well have found the culprit!

 

[65AmpegBB4]

A shot in the dark, but any chance the strings are rattling in the nut? Like maybe some slots are too wide or something like that?

Unfortunately, no cigar. Of the four strings, it only happens when I pluck A and E, both of which seem to fill up the nut's slots more than the other two given their gauges. I played F and G on the E string, as well as B flat and C o the A string and it doesn't make a difference.

I'm really trying to stay away from cutting the strings, but I wonder if the excess string wound up against the pegbox's sidewalls could be causing the issue. In theory, they are under very high tension and nothing should move past the pivoting point of the nut, but who knows...

 

[dylanjohnson]

Are your strings still stretching at all? They are new, right? Having the strings up against the sidewalls is a bad idea, but it is pretty much unavoidable if you don't cut the strings. Is the noise amplifying? Probably so with a BB.

 

[65AmpegBB4]

Unfortunately, no cigar. Of the four strings, it only happens when I pluck A and E, both of which seem to fill up the nut's slots more than the other two given their gauges. I played F and G on the E string, as well as B flat and C o the A string and it doesn't make a difference.

Are your strings still stretching at all? They are new, right? Having the strings up against the sidewalls is a bad idea, but it is pretty much unavoidable if you don't cut the strings. Is the noise amplifying? Probably so with a BB.

My strings are brand new as of two weeks ago and I haven’t played it much, so they could very well be stretching still?

Surprisingly the noise is not too noticeable through the amp, maybe because the actual sound overpowers it.

 

[dylanjohnson]

My strings are brand new as of two weeks ago and I haven’t played it much, so they could very well be stretching still?

Surprisingly the noise is not too noticeable through the amp, maybe because the actual sound overpowers it.

Play it a lot and see if the noise stops in a couple of weeks. Can't hurt to shed on the thing a lot!

 

[65AmpegBB4]

Play it a lot and see if the noise stops in a couple of weeks. Can't hurt to shed on the thing a lot!

That’s the plan!

Does anyone how long Spirocore Solos take to settle? They are tuned to orchestra.

 

[dylanjohnson]

That’s the plan!

Does anyone how long Spirocore Solos take to settle? They are tuned to orchestra.

They shouldn't take more than a few days if they are played a lot, but I'm thinking that the extra winds on the post might take a while to fully settle in.

 

[65AmpegBB4]

They shouldn't take more than a few days if they are played a lot, but I'm thinking that the extra winds on the post might take a while to fully settle in.

Great point, thank you. What size strings do you have on yours, 3/4 or 4/4? The Spiro solos are popular in 4/4 size here in the US (S43 set) and that's what I purchased based on the general recommendation. Also, did you cut yours? Just trying to see if there are any obvious differences between my setup and what others are doing.

Thanks!

 

[65AmpegBB4]

I think I may have found the culprit! While applying pressure using my thumb on the E string's peg post (just pressing on the wound string), it goes away. Since the A string is on the same side of the peg box and closer in frequency than the other two strings, it makes sense that playing the A string would cause the same problem.

The question then becomes: should I unwind and rewind the E string to see if all the windings sit better, or should I just wait it out and see if the windings settle after stretching on their own, or should I resort to cutting the strings? Given the gauge of the E string, it's the one with the most contact with the inside of the pegbox.

Thank you all!

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Well, your strings could have wound a bit better.

If a string is too long to be wound completely on the peg without touching the pegbox, simply let them stick out, so that you can go with three or four windings up to pitch. It doesn't look nice, but you have a well wound string and not the fear of killing the string because of the clamping at the pegbox side.

For winding I do it that way:
One turn (or two turns) away from the side where the string winding should end, then a quick diagonal half or even quarter turn towards the other side of the windings and then wind the the rest of the string there. If you still get in contact with the pegbox put more string through the peg hole and repeat. No risk with Spiros breaking a string that way.

These bass guitar style pegs are bad for double bass strings. They hardly can take more than three windings on the E.

 

[65AmpegBB4]

Well, your strings could have wound a bit better.

If a string is too long to be wound completely on the peg without touching the pegbox, simply let them stick out, so that you can go with three or four windings up to pitch. It doesn't look nice, but you have a well wound string and not the fear of killing the string because of the clamping at the pegbox side.

For winding I do it that way:
One turn (or two turns) away from the side where the string winding should end, then a quick diagonal half or even quarter turn towards the other side of the windings and then wind the the rest of the string there. If you still get in contact with the pegbox put more string through the peg hole and repeat. No risk with Spiros breaking a string that way.

These bass guitar style pegs are bad for double bass strings. They hardly can take more than three windings on the E.

Thanks for the tips! When you say put more string through the peg hole, only as long as it’s still on the silk, yes? I’ve never wound a string starting on the nickel as I believe it will most likely kill the string in the hard bend?

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Yes, should have the silk and best also is a bit more flexible. This is where the windings under the silk are spread and the surface is a bit rough.
The 4/4 strings might be a bit long, but try to make three or four windings only. Then you see if and where you might have room for another winding (or not).
Worst case you can put shrink tube over the part that goes into the peg hole and bends. That will hold the windings in place if they break at the peg.