• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Badass Bridge III, Not Recommended

yeah, I'd recommend that folks researching here ignore statements like "they are all hype" etc. It totally depends on what you're after. Lots of players like a thumpy sound with flats...a high mass bridge may not help you very much. I play with steel rounds, and a high mass bridge helps a lot to provide the amount of sustain I like. I own a Hipshot A b/c I didn't have time to file saddles at the time, but filing them yourself (or luthier doing it) is potentially a better option if one knows what they are doing. I've owned BA bridges in the past and much appreciated them over a standard fender- type bridge.
 
Any benefit would also totally depend on your playing style. If your fingers/thumbs/picks aren't plucking for massive sustain, a massive bridge won't make a lick of difference. I've only had the original BAs. The Hipshot A I have now is close to the amount of mass. The III looks like it's more massive than the II, but I know nothing about it,
 
Don't personnally have experience with the II or III - but love the I. I cover the silly
BA emblem with tape. I also like the Shaller Roller Bridge & will use them again on any
other import I buy. My USAs get BA Is because they do have a nice neckangle that
can appreciate the BA Is height. The BA II is more shallow than the BA I & III. The
Schaller has an extra plate to raise it up for basses with more neckangle. Seems the
Hipshot has a good name - I'll have to check them out.

BA pics:
BA I from 76 & 06 - no changes in design at all.

76SEAGULLINTERg.jpg


Badass1Bridge002.jpg


Minimum String Height (Before filing of saddles) 17mm

Bridge Width 79mm

Bridge Length 50mm

String Spacing 15mm Approx

Intonation Screw Length (After rear of bridge) 40mm



Badass II,Great Fender replacement bridge,needs shallower neck angle

BadassIIBridge001.jpg


BadassIIBridge002.jpg


Minimum String Height (Before filing of saddles) 11mm

Bridge Width 80mm

Bridge Length 62mm

String Spacing 15mm Approx

Intonation Screw Length (After rear of bridge) 50mm


I II & V pics:

BadassBridgescomparison1.jpg


BadassBridgescomparison2.jpg


V is basically a II for 5 strings.

III & II side by side:

DSCN3685.gif


Enjoy
 
I have removed all badass bridges from my life and will NEVER go back. They are not adjustable enough, everything that Peter said was dead on, but I will add this. Since replacing my Badass bridges with Gotoh High mass bridges, I now have power and clarity and I can hear the wood on my bass. The saddle design is holding the BA back big time.
 
I've got a bass with an original Badass I (One). That one is NOT a drop in replacement...It's extremely tall, and even with saddles all the way down the action was unplayably high...I did what seemed most reasonable. I took it to my father's house and had him route a 1/4" deep bridge shaped depression in the face of my bass. ...The change in the character of the bass was remarkable, compared to the cheap bent metal bridge on my Yamaha BB300. You could FEEL the string vibration much more when you played.
BTW, I have a 73 P w/a BA-I; it's sunk into a route in the body. I've seen this fairly often on BA installations.
The only negative I can see is that the BA bridges are thicker (therefore higher) than standard Fender bridges. As a replacement bridge, unless you route the wood under the bridge, the action will be higher.
My understanding is that the original BA bridge was supposed to be sunken into the body. I thought they were designed that way. Isn't that why Leo Quan always said to have it professionally installed by a skilled luthier?
 
A question to those who have been pleased with the BA3. Does it really change the tone of your bass THAT much? I've got a MIA jazz '01 with strings thru and have always perceived the tone to be somewhat stifled (not much sustain at all and quite thin sounding - even acoustically. I've changed the pickups a couple of times but the overall personality is always still there. I pepsi challenged it with a MIJ Geddy once (both have maple necks y'see) and the tone/sustain/thereness of the Geddy killed mine. As my bass cost nearly twice that of the Geddy you can understand how disappointed I was/am. I've wondered if it was the badass on the Geddy that made the difference or the fact that the Geddy was quite a light bass whereas my MIA is on the heavy side? On a plus side my MIA did feel better made overall. Can't afford to get another bass so do you think the BA3 will be the magic wand I need? please help!
 
I never cared for the Badass bridges myself.

I have played a few basses with them and didn’t find it to be that much of an improvement.

I have also never liked the idea of neck shims, that to me is an ‘oops I screwed up, what do I do now’ solution.
I have seen basses with inset bridges, more work, but it looks like an intentional custom feature.

I do like and recommend the Hipshot A and the Schaller roller bridges.

MM
 
What is the pros of this BAII bridge over the stock bridge on jazz bass.

having ruined a few vintage Fenders with them back in the late 70's, I can say that you get 2% more sustain, maybe, if that, but it will definitely kill all the nice woody punch that Leo Fender had designed in to those instruments. The original light Fender bridges transfer the maximum sound to the body and sound best, IMHO. One of my students recently removed a badass II from a jazz bass, and both he and I are much happier with the sound.

He has a Badass II for sale. Let me know if you are interested.

Cheers,
Cameron
 
I have no issues with the BAII or any reason to have any issue with the BAIII. That being said, I have one on my Geddy Clone and it is there because one is on Geddy's bass. I did notice more sustain and a lot more sympathetic string vibration and overtones with the BAII. Not really something I care for.

That all being said I am partial to anything that is not an el-cheapo bridge in terms of hardware and metal quality. I have a Gotoh 201 and it is good too, but ifin I had to do both over again I'd stick with a stock Fernder bridge, the Gotoh 203 or the Wilkinson replacements. All are fine, all do what a bridge is supposed to do and I can almost buy a new one of each for the cost of a BAII, used! Nevermind the BAIII.

Like I said, I have no issue with any high mass bridge and find direct drop in replacements to be easy to deal with. I am starting to lean towards single string bridges as I have never played a bass with them that I did not like. But for the most part the BAII is a fine bridge, but I do not know that I would buy one again...