Got out on the "sporty" model recently.... man the 1X drive is fun. Quick shifting.
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basscyclist thread picture thread
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Whelp, got a replacement part for the seatpost. Walked right in with the whole seatpost and the "clamp" assembly, showed the guy what happened, and he got one that fit right out of the back for $5CAD. Can't complain there, even going to the guy with a million old frames, I'd basically have to buy a whole other frame for the one part.
Looks like I'm back on the road!
edit: Odd question, but I've been putting grease onto just about anything with threads just to help prevent things from seizing up or rusting together, should I do same with the seatpost?
Looks like I'm back on the road!
edit: Odd question, but I've been putting grease onto just about anything with threads just to help prevent things from seizing up or rusting together, should I do same with the seatpost?
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I use copper paste as anti-seize for threads because it's less messy. I also think it gives more consistent torque feel/readings
Fair enough, I'm just using some generic lithium grease at the moment. When I got it I figured that it's cheaper than several single-use products, which kinda mattered when I wasn't sure if I wanted to keep up this "biking" thing.
That all said, the new seat is locked in place pretty tightly, and I left the seatpost up another couple of inches, hopefully that helps with some lower back/core soreness on longer rides.
I grease all threads. My reason is mainly to minimize corrosion. Also (since we're talking about your seatpost), remember that the seatpost itself should have a thin layer of grease on it to avoid seizing.
In my case, my use of bikes is pretty light duty. And I'm trying to reduce the sheer variety of goops and fluids in my tiny shop.
In my case, my use of bikes is pretty light duty. And I'm trying to reduce the sheer variety of goops and fluids in my tiny shop.
General purpose grease is perfectly fine. I have some issues with my back and wrists so last time I had to replace the tires I got the biggest size I could fit so to keep the pressure as low as possible. It really works.
I'm always cautious with bicycle stuff purchases whether it's parts or tools because I'm not really that much bicycle committed guy. But I would lie if I'd say that I never got something that turned out to be useless.
I honestly try my best to measure everything as precisely as I can, and consult multiple sources online until I can suss out reliable trains of thought. Then I test things out. Some sources say to use bike specific greases, cleaners, and chain lubes as much as possible. Others say to use some oddly specific series of homebrewed alternatives. Others yet seem to say "use whatever grease you want, just be sure to use SOME kind of grease." If none of their bikes are imploding anytime soon, chances are the third group is most correct - even if a bike specific product is "best" it's probably just a matter of diminishing returns or possibly snake oil for the most part from there.
About bicycle specific chemicals I say snake oil, IMO. An exception is the rubber components that generally are not very compatible with lithium based greases and silicon based is preferred but again this could be a problem in the long term. For the chain I have concluded that the best lubricant is a thin layer of mineral gearbox oil or not any lubricant at all, just keep it clean all the times. My list of chemicals for my bicycles and motorcycles is this and except the oil, I probably have them for more than 10 years and still have plenty
GP lithium grease
Silicon grease
Copper paste
Blue Loctite thread lock
Gearbox oil
GP lithium grease
Silicon grease
Copper paste
Blue Loctite thread lock
Gearbox oil
Ngl I've never heard of gearbox oil. Is that like a transmission for small motors? I've honestly just been using motor oil, I only need a few drops for the rollers and I've already got a bunch, given that a jug is five litres and my car only needs about 4 and change.
also, my bike doesn't have much if any rubber, just a couple of plugs on the hubs to try to keep dirt out. I cleaned out the hubs in may I think, I'm kind of worried to check them out now, dirt has a way of getting everywhere.
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First snow ride.
Ground was frozen , made for ideal condition.
Ground was frozen , made for ideal condition.
Yes, transmission oil but motor oil is as good. I prefer the thicker stuff like 75W-80 so it stays a little bit longer in the chain but I think cleanliness is more important.
I forgot to include plastics in my previous post but as you say, seals in the hubs, freehubs, BB, modern headsets and bearing seals. Lithium grease will disintegrate these materials after long time so practically speaking, there may be no reason to get silicone grease. I don't worry too much about dirt in these places because it accumulates so quickly that it would trigger my OCD every week.
I’m jealous. We have snow, but my fat bike has not arrived yet! And I’ve already cleaned and stored my other bikes.
There's a Trek store in Kingston, where I live now, and my buddy has a dual Sport that he really likes, and I somewhat envy tbh. I assume that anything they have more expensive than that would honestly just get better from that bar. I went in there and got some pretty decent tires for my old bike, too, and not a single discouraging word was said about that bike.
Given that I know I could get a Trek in town and I would then know where to go for warranty stuff or service, as well as having seen a guy enjoying two different models of theirs very much, my money would be on the Trek.
I'm sure specialized makes a great product, too. Back in NB there was a red specialized Allez that I would see at a couple spots on base that I thought was pretty eye catching. That model has been around a long time, so it must be doing something right.
I know neither of those are the models you're looking at, but it's all I can say with authority.
Also, I kind of assume that by FS you mean full suspension. If you do mountain biking I'd grab that full suspension right up, it'll be extra comfort and traction and allow you to do cooler stuff, and I think would give you more bang for your buck. But if you're like me and just commuting and doing fitness rides on roads and paths/trails, the Trek would have one less suspension thing to take care of - which is honestly worth mentioning even if it's small.
I'd apologize for triple posting, but I just got this baby back on the road, it's a Raleigh, as far as I know it's all stock. My old high school bike, bought at a police auction some decades ago and used as a commuter, then handed down to high-school me.
Is it worth getting aluminium rims on a bike like this if it's only seeing very occasional use on fairly flat roads?
Is it worth getting aluminium rims on a bike like this if it's only seeing very occasional use on fairly flat roads?
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They both look fine to me, have you ridden either one? Does either one look cooler to you than the other?
Do you think you'll want the front suspension?
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Not a fan of FS. It always felt sluggish to pedal. Not sure how much can be dialed out. Bit of a cruise to the Specialized but with the holidays here I don’t know how it will shake out. I know there’s some serious riders on here. Im not one of them. Mostly around the neighborhood, bike paths and some off road that I really enjoy. We’ll see. But thank you so much for the input.
Sounds like the Trek would serve you plenty well, especially if the frame fits you well enough and is closer to you than the specialized.
