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Battery Compartment fiasco on a gig

babaseen

Jahcolonius Punk
Gold Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Thought I should share what happened on the gig Friday night. This was a gig where there are a couple of bands and you need to set up quickly (no sound check) and play your set.
I have Sadowsky Modern 5 and I decided to change the battery right before I left for the gig as I measured the voltage and thought it was low (8.5V) and didn't want to have an issue at the gig...yeah right. My mistake was I didn't check that the bass was functional with an amp, I just assumed this was a simple battery change as I have done many times in the past with no issue.

When I set up on stage and I had no sound, the keyboardist started telling me that his keyboard or amp was acting funny too and maybe the club's AC voltage was low so I should change to a different outlet. Also adding to my confusion was that I had opened the amp up (removed the cover) before I left the house because at our rehearsal I noticed the feet on the bottom of the amp were loose so I wanted to tighten them up and this made me think that maybe something happened to the amp thus starting a confusing/under pressure situation as the band, soundman and audience all waited for me to resolve the issue. I didn't think the amp was the problem but I wasted time switching the power and then wasted more time thinking I had a bad cord or a defective effect pedal. After trying all that the guitarist plugged into my amp confirming it was fine thus I realized it must be the battery. But my mistake was that I convinced myself that I might have put the battery in backwards so I took it out and flipped it around but when I pushed it in, what happened was the edge of the battery bent and jammed the battery where I could not open the battery compartment, the drummer even gave me his car key to pry it open but it was not going to open without a fight, thus the bass was totally useless. Luckily the next band's bassplayer let me use his Rickenbacker but at first it did not work into my amp and the PA which took more time and created more of a mystery (I didn't realize the Ric had two jacks and just my luck I picked the wrong one). I ended up playing the Ric with a long strap into the PA, a bit of a struggle but it sufficed.

When I got home that night I had to pry the battery compartment open with pliers thus breaking the latch, but even though it was broken, when I put a new battery in the right way the bass worked just fine. In hindsight all I needed to do at the gig was just re-seat the battery as I had put it in the right way...it just was not making good contact...also the bass will not pass a signal even in the passive mode (it has an active/passive switch) unless there is a battery in it making a good connection. What a lesson learned...a very embarrassing gig for me.

Anyway the band played great and of course this helps minimize the pressure I was feeling...covered in sweat before we even started. I am lucky to be in such a great band.
--Tom

P.S. Interesting to note that Roger no longer uses the battery box/compartment on his basses. My Modern 5 is from '99 when he used EMG p/u's and a separate battery box. I guess battery boxes are just not that reliable for the ease of use they provide.
 
I thought Sadowsky preamps were true active passive. I didn't think the battery contacts made a difference.

They do on the '99 Sad Modern 5 with EMGs

I change batteries, before I start packing up, for a gig because there are just too many things going on during setup.

I did change the battery when I was packing up just didn't check it into an amp, can never take anything for granted when preparing for a gig. Now I know, just had to learn the hard way.

Glad it worked out for you. This is why I love active/passive. I have had my Carvin go quiet (thankfully during practice) I just popped it over to passive and voila, noise. Bad members just thought I missed a couple notes.

The Sad Modern 5 is active/passive (it has a switch for this) it just needs to have the battery connected for either mode to pass a signal. It may be different on the newer models. Plus Roger doesn't use the battery box anymore probably for the reliability issue I just experienced.
 
The Sad Modern 5 is active/passive (it has a switch for this) it just needs to have the battery connected for either mode to pass a signal. It may be different on the newer models. Plus Roger doesn't use the battery box anymore probably for the reliability issue I just experienced.
That's not true active/passive. If the battery dies, neither mode will work. My basses with Bartolini systems are true active passive. If the battery dies, I just pull up on the knob and can play in passive mode. They will play, in passive mode, with no battery installed.
 
That's not true active/passive. If the battery dies, neither mode will work. My basses with Bartolini systems are true active passive. If the battery dies, I just pull up on the knob and can play in passive mode. They will play, in passive mode, with no battery installed.

You are correct but since I have the EMG p/u's...BEWARE! I just found this in another post on TB (the search function is my friend;-) I guess the morale of this story is beware of Sadowsky's with EMGs and never trust a battery box.

Heres one of the FAQ from the Sadowsky website:

Teal in Berlin, Germany asks: With the Sadowsky passive tone control installed, will the passive mode work without the battery?

Roger Sadowsky answers: All Sadowsky basses (except those with EMG pickups) have a true "passive" bypass switch, either as a mini toggle or a push-pull pot. In passive mode, the bass is not dependent upon the battery. We include this professional-quality feature on all of our instruments to allow players the versatility of playing in either mode. It also provides complete peace of mind in case the battery or the preamp circuit fails.
 
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Since we are discussing true active/passive, here's EMGs take on it (from the FAQ section)...

What happens if the battery runs out?
We were afraid you were going to ask... Because EMG pickups are designed from the ground up to operate as active pickups, they’re not very functional when deprived of power. As the battery weakens over time, the output level will reduce and become more distorted. When you hear that happening, it’s time to change the battery. Below a certain voltage, the onboard active circuitry will stop working. At that point, you will hear little or no output from the guitar. Don’t let this happen to you! Other “active” systems run the output of normal high-impedance pickups into a buffer amp or active EQ circuit. If the battery goes dead in one of these systems, you can bypass the active circuit and still get some sound. That’s nice, but this sort of design compromises the pickup design yielding only a few of the benefits of optimized active pickup design. That bypass switch will cost you tone and noise - a BAD tradeoff.
 
Yes, reviving an old thread. It's not illegal.

I just wanted to share some insight on those battery boxes. I had them installed in all of my basses. Very convenient for changing batteries. I, too, am paranoid about batteries dying, so I check them every couple of weeks with the meter.

However, there's not an obvious indication of the direction the battery needs to go in, except to actually look down into the compartment. Not easy to do is less than optimum lighting.

I took a gold paint pen and marked the positive side of the little compartment to make checking and/or changing them easier to put them correctly.

Also, I made the mistake of trying a lithium Everyday battery. Unfortunately, those are slightly larger than alkaline 9V, so it got stuck in the compartment and wouldn't completely close. I could see that it was going to be very difficult to remove, so I was able to remove the compartment from the bass and push out the lithium battery from the back side of the compartment.
 
I keep spare batteries for my active Fender jazz but sometimes they are dead. I don't like active basses. They always go when in the middle of a gig and that's the last thing you think of that the battery is dead. There's never a warning. That's why I got a Rickenbacker passive.
 
My US Jazz Plus is active/passive. I know it wirks with a dead battery but i've bever tried it without one. It has a lead with a snap cap so it's near impossible to install the battery backward or not get a good connection.

Oh, and a silver sharpie is also excellent for making things.
 
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This entire thread is why I prefer to do my pre-amping outboard. My VT Bass Deluxe will get any instrument into the sonic territory that I desire for it, with its' 6 presets. Bypassing it makes for a 7th sound, but that's usually only for low-volume gigs. Gimme a PJ-equipped bass, or one of my modded-to-my-own-spec J-basses, and I'm fine. Unless it's the rare studio session (or even rarer gig) for my Warwick limited edition, I don't neeeeeed no steeeeenkin' batteries.
 
If I buy a bass with a battery compartment, I hope it's like Ibanez where they don't actually make it a drop-in type thing.
On the Ibanez I've seen you still need to remove the battery top by hand, basically the old-fashioned way:

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BTW, if you have a TRS cable & a multi-meter you can check the Voltage w/o removing the battery.
7.2 Volts is dead