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Born in '91?
Just listen to the advice from those of us who were born in the 1950s or earlier, and you'll be alright.
That goes without saying (they always get an "upgrade") that she got one right? haha I'll take the bait though, always curious to know more.
Just a dumb story I threw in the mix back there.
I worked with a gal who was about 5 feet tall & cute as a button, named Meee (like in the thread title).
Yeah, when I introduced her to the boss he tried to pull off a similar joke, but she didn't get it.
Hey boss, this is our newest employee, Mee!
What do you mean, you've worked here a year already?
No, THIS is Mee! (pointing at her)
We had to explain how funny it was later, but it wasn't.
Disclaimer: sorry for the thread-fudge OP
Hey boss, this is our newest employee, Mee!
What do you mean, you've worked here a year already?
No, THIS is Mee! (pointing at her)
We had to explain how funny it was later, but it wasn't.
Disclaimer: sorry for the thread-fudge OP
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Ah it's cool man. I wanna keep this thread going lol
@groovaholic i really shouldn't have read that link on impedance that you sent me. Man I've found out that all my 18s are 8 ohm. The 1820 uses 1 18 at 8 ohms and 2 10s at 16 ohms to make a 4 ohm crossover.
In theory, if I buy 2 peavey 410 cabs that were rated at 4 ohms. I could essentially build three 1820s and a 410 peavey monster cab, each rated at 4 ohms and I can fully use the potential of my lh1000, it would probably be 36" W 74" H 20" D and weigh 250lbs. But it would be friggin sweet
In theory, if I buy 2 peavey 410 cabs that were rated at 4 ohms. I could essentially build three 1820s and a 410 peavey monster cab, each rated at 4 ohms and I can fully use the potential of my lh1000, it would probably be 36" W 74" H 20" D and weigh 250lbs. But it would be friggin sweet
I'll resist posting the acronym, but Ampeg posts manuals for their product on each of their product pages.
If the amp in question is indeed the classic 810e, then you need to think more literally in this instance - those 810s can be run as two independent sets of 410s (one upper, one lower):
Selection from the manual:
"Your Ampeg SVT-810E/AV Dual Bass Cabinet is a high quality speaker cabinet suitable for all sizes of venues. The SVT-810E/AV can be “split” into two isolated 8 ohm, 4x10 cabinets via the jackplate connections. This allows each cabinet to be driven by a separate amplifier. Of course it may also be connected in the Mono Mode to create a single 4 ohm, 8x10 cabinet that may be powered by a single amplifier."
And because, just like with 1/4" cables, a picture is worth a thousand words:
Sorry for the double post, that picture was a bit long - if you can get it for $400, and if it's in good shape, I would jump on it. I am curious to hear your ears' assessment of it though when you try it out.
If I were you, and I was considering pairing my LH1000 with that cab, I'd probably run it in the recommended stereo mode setup noted above. Yes, the actual wattage numbers may seem unimpressive in that scenario (2x320 corrected), but I'm also IMO appropriately cautious with my gear, especially being a... recovering lows-junkie (thanks @BadExample ).
I'd start there, and then only move into the full on bridged/mono mode if deemed absolutely necessary, but that's just me.
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No. The spec sheet you posted says 800W mono, 400W stereo. As in, each 410 "half" of the cab is 400W.
Cabs don't have watts. You misunderstand. Watts come from the amp head, not the speaker cabinet. We've talked before about numbers vs reality; I apologise if I'm just repeating myself.
Ampeg 810 is an epic and legendary cabinet well worthy of your consideration. If it's in good condition then it should sound great with your Hartke, and be quite loud.
Right, basically each 10" driver is rated to be able to accept up to 100w RMS.
So if you run it mono, that's 800. Stereo, it's 400+400=800. The power handling for cabs doesn't change, it's all a matter of how you slice and dice it.
Oh, and just in case you're getting that 1600w number from the peak listing in the manual, traditionally peak power is listed at double RMS. There are technical reasons for this that others would be in a better position to explain than I, suffice it to say that speaking in generalities (sorry), respectably rated amps are typically able to put out something like twice as much power as their RMS listing in very short bursts. That's peak power.
So yes, that means that your LH1000 may be capable of putting out something crazy like 2200 watts in an instantaneous burst in bridge mode. Just like that 810e, per the manual is able to handle a 1600w peak mono.
Again, IMO these are not numbers to be sought after, but numbers to avoid. YMMV. If you've already read through those other links that have been provided earlier in the thread, finding an article that explains what RMS is, and how it's rated vs. peak/burst power would be my next course of reading.
So then I would need two of them in parallel 545w per 810 to safely use it. efficiently.
Yeah I'd like two of em and be done with it. But not enough change laying around. Just got a $370 suit yesterday for this wedding I have to be at (lame) ugh stuck in Indy traffic and I'm about to lose my mindCabs don't have watts. You misunderstand. Watts come from the amp head, not the speaker cabinet. We've talked before about numbers vs reality; I apologise if I'm just repeating myself.
Ampeg 810 is an epic and legendary cabinet well worthy of your consideration. If it's in good condition then it should sound great with your Hartke, and be quite loud.
The Ampeg SVT810E is a good choice for what you want to do. It's almost a standard back line cabinet for big shows. Just be aware that there are differences in them depending on the year they were made.
You posted Ampegs on line catalog page of the Classic version. That should be good.
The one I bought, (a mid 1990s I think), (which I paid $175.00 for) is probably one to stay away from. It is constructed out of oriented strand board, and people who know describe it as being made during the time that Ampeg used speakers that gave it a "dark" voice.
When I asked the seller why he was selling it, he even said because it sounded like mud.
Do your homework. Get some advice from people who know about that cabinet. If you do a search on TB you will probably find some good information to help you decide if you should buy this cabinet.
Edit to add:
In my opinion, if you do buy an SVT810E cabinet, you should get yourself an Ampeg SVT amplifier to top it off.
You posted Ampegs on line catalog page of the Classic version. That should be good.
The one I bought, (a mid 1990s I think), (which I paid $175.00 for) is probably one to stay away from. It is constructed out of oriented strand board, and people who know describe it as being made during the time that Ampeg used speakers that gave it a "dark" voice.
When I asked the seller why he was selling it, he even said because it sounded like mud.
Do your homework. Get some advice from people who know about that cabinet. If you do a search on TB you will probably find some good information to help you decide if you should buy this cabinet.
Edit to add:
In my opinion, if you do buy an SVT810E cabinet, you should get yourself an Ampeg SVT amplifier to top it off.
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