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Blew a kt88 in a mesa four 88......

there is a certain amount of satisfaction blowing tubes though lol

sucks when happens

but then we were nailings this groove so good I blew my tubes lol.
Lol. Yeah man i popped a tube.....lol. wish it was from something earth shaking but was only on half power. Granted it was almost at full tilt of half power......needless to say before i blew my load-i mean tube, i hit a low e with the bass cranked, on bass boost voicing #1, and ive never in my life heard 2x12 cabinet sound like 4x15s in my life. It was epic.......lol.
 
Is your 212 cabinet 4 ohm or 8 ohm?
Its 8 ohm. The manual calls for a 4 ohm input at half power. I actually took the backplate off the cab after we talked last night and checked things out, pcb and caps seems to be fine, all speakers were hooked up. Checked the ohm load of each speaker and tested the speakon which was reading 7.1-.2. But whats got me wondering now, cause when i removed the speakon from the cab, i believe i had it hooked up to the parallel out. Im thinking this might have been the issue all along. On my ampeg cabs, all the 1/4s or speakons are all input, so im just used to slapping a cord in the back without looking but on the mesa jackplate, its a different ballgame i believe. Just another round of mesa (bass) rookie mistakes but not sure. Thanks for following up.
 
Correct, the reason for using the 4 ohm tap at 8 ohms when using the 2 tube mode is to correctly match the plate load to the speaker load. With 1/2 the tubes, the plate load needs to be 1/2 (double the impedance) which is reflected from the load to the transformer primary by using the 4 ohm tap with the 8 ohm load. 1/2 the plate load with 1/2 the tubes = 1.

It's also possible that there was a flashover defect in one of the power tubes, more common with the KT type tubes because of the (much) higher operating voltages. The other side of this is that the KT tubes have a somewhat uniquely rock tone, very hard to duplicate with 6550's at this power level, and even more difficult with 6L6's without using a heck of a lot of them (and even then, the plate voltage is much lower so the transformer parameters will be quite different).

This is a big challenge in the quest for this kind of tone, and why there are not a lot of choices in this class of product.
 
Thanks bud. Wasnt sure about that one.
From your pic, you seem to gig alot also. Ever had
It sounds to me like it was pushed too hard at a non optimal resistance.

It's hard to get annoyed at something when the directions say one thing and they are ignored or bent.
It sounds to me like it was pushed too hard at a non optimal resistance.

It's hard to get annoyed at something when the directions say one thing and they are ignored or bent.
Yeah im not too worried about what happened. Its reading this manual: ok i had it matched to the right input at half power, checked the cab and it was ok. Lemme find a pdf of the manual on page 30 in the category of diagnosing power tube failure. Then i think agedhorse might understand why i wasnt too worried (at the begining of the thread) about replacing the tube and fuse. (gatta update my flickr acct to upload pics)
 
It sounds to me like it was pushed too hard at a.....
DIAGNOSING POWER TUBE FAILURE: There are two main types of tube faults: shorts and noise. Both large and small
tubes may fall prey to either of these problems but diagnosis and remedy is usually simple.
If a fuse blows, the problem is most likely a shorted power tube and shorts can either be mild or severe. In a mildly shorted tube the
electron flow has overcome the control grid and excess current flows to the plate. You will usually hear the amp become distorted
and begin to hum slightly. If this occurs, quickly look at the power tubes as you switch the amp to STANDBY and try to identify one
as glowing red hot. It is likely that two of a pair will be glowing since the “shorted” tube will pull down the bias for its adjacent mates,
but one tube may be glowing hotter — and that one is the culprit. The other two are often fine — unless they’ve been glowing bright
red for several minutes.
Because there is no physical short inside the tube (just electrons rioting out of control) merely switching to STANDBY for a few mo-
ments then back to ON will usually cure the problem...at least temporarily. Watch the tubes carefully now. Should the problem recur,
the intermittent tube will visibly start to over heat before the others and thus it can be identified. It should be replaced with one from
the same color batch, shown on its label. Call us and we will send one out to you.
The severe short is not nearly so benign. In the worst cases, a major arcing short occurs between the plate and the cathode with
visible lightning inside the glass and a major noise through the speaker. If this is seen to happen, IMMEDIATELY turn the amp to
STANDBY. By this time the fuse probably will have blown. Such a short is usually caused by a physical breakdown inside the tube
including contaminate coming loose or physical contact (or near contact) between the elements. Replace it and the fuse with the
proper slo-blo type and power up the amp using the power up procedure as we described earlier in this manual.
 
From your pic, you seem to gig alot also. Ever had


Yeah im not too worried about what happened. Its reading this manual: ok i had it matched to the right input at half power, checked the cab and it was ok. Lemme find a pdf of the manual on page 30 in the category of diagnosing power tube failure. Then i think agedhorse might understand why i wasnt too worried (at the begining of the thread) about replacing the tube and fuse. (gatta update my flickr acct to upload pics)
Mine was the last type of tube failure where it sais severe short. Then it tells me to replace "it" (meaning the tube i assume)and the proper slo blo fuse.
But if your like me when playing, i turn my amps up to the point where i can just tap string fretted lets say, on the octave fret. And if im close enough, im gonna get that sustain. Not a true bass player, so not sure if this is something i should even be talking about but i want that volume level (usually have it) so i can be dynamic with my strumming, plucking hand. Now i believe u hit the nail on the head about being too loud with a non optimal resistance. I can see that all day. But before i go gung ho on getting the amp back up and running, ill call mesa to make sure they give me the green light to do so. Even if the manual tells me otherwise, id rather be safe then sorry. Thanks for your input. Cheers
 
Another point if I may, using text-isms is also frowned upon. I find them disconcerting and off putting. Plain English is so much better for getting a meaning across. Especially for we throw backs who only use the device to make telephone calls. :D
frowned apon? Hell thats 2nd nature to me. Ive been frowned apon since the day i was born......lol. but yes, no problem. I will strive for better punctuation and try to lay off the abbreviations. I guess whats next to be frowned apon is my spelling......cheers
 
frowned apon? Hell thats 2nd nature to me. Ive been frowned apon since the day i was born......lol. but yes, no problem. I will strive for better punctuation and try to lay off the abbreviations. I guess whats next to be frowned apon is my spelling......cheers
Bunch of helpful yet still grumpy old farts in here.
Helping U iz EZR when we dont have 2 tranlatize UR ?'s N2 English.
 
Bunch of helpful yet still grumpy old farts in here.
Helping U iz EZR when we dont have 2 tranlatize UR ?'s N2 English.
Lol, love it. But totally understood what you were saying btw........:roflmao: sorry i did it again. Dont blame me for all the abbreviations, blame all these kids who started this mess and got me doing it now. And im not that young, i still remember rotary phones and ford escorts......
 
"Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteers be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."

 
"Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteers be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."

You’re an Alien ain’tcha? :D
 
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what he said wasn't all that bad.
anyways that head has a dual bias setting switch. which could be rather convenient.

use one side of the bias switch for full power the other side for half.

most likely the tube was on its way out anyways and possibly little hot on the bias for half power.

I don't know the method they are using for half power. usually a voltage drop. sounds like they are keeping the voltage high and actually halfing the quad to a pair.

so usually in good practice the amp
would include a bias circuit that automatically changed for half power. don't know if it does or doesn't but the dual bias switch could be used to your advantage.

like I said if possible bias the quad to one setting and bias the pair on the other. use the correct cab impedance like you did. And with a new pair of tubes I wouldn't worry bout it to much. since you did bblow the tubes. check the screen resistors for tolerance and clean the tube sockets and check for carbon tracking. cause yes if this amp is actually getting 125 watts out of a pair. then yes arc over is pretty easy to get. the plate voltage has to be atleast 600 volts or higher to get that much power from a pair. And yes kt 88 are little unstable at high plate voltage. And you wouldn't want them biased to hot. be interesting to see the schematic for this amp. see if mesa actual used pretty common methods to tame instability with this tube type.