Just got a BMax-T and was wondering how bright the tube glowed in it. The reason I ask is that I am getting very low output to the cabs. I know it was MUCH louder with my old solid state BMax. All that has changed is the Bmax-T pre and I am now using Avatar Kappa pro's rather than the Avatar Deltas. (same impedance) I know the Kappa Pro's have a higher power handling range but it should not affect volume to this degree. I suspect it is in the pre but not sure. Any help appreciated. Paul
I have one BMAX-T and it's extremely hot. I set the gain at 3-4 and volume at 3-4 and it's insanely loud. Maybe you should check the unit with the store or some technician. I just know that mine is very very loud and hot. I've used it with an Aguilar 410 and 212. Take care...
Well it was an EBay purchase so I really have no store to take it too unfortuneately. I have a friend who used to own a TV repair shop and still has some test equipment so he will test the tube on Friday. Anybody no if a tube can go bad causing this type of problem, or is it simply a case of it either works or not, with the tube. Like I said it lights very dimly. How bright does your tube glow afroman?
Paul, I've heard of bad tubes causing low output, but I think the normal 'tube going bad' symptoms deal with the audio quality not the amplitude. Are you cranking the gain and master volume knobs currently to get what is still lower output? John P.S. did you get my PM re: the solid state BMax you sent to me last week?
Yeash just read it. Glad you like the pre I'll hook you up in the Feedback Forum. Yeah everythingis cranked up to max and still wimpy ass sound. The pre I just sold you cranked but the new tube one blows. Like I said besides the pre I also changed from the Avatar delta cabs to the Kappa Pro's but I can't see that making a difference. Now I'm just getting pissed 'cause I got new cabs pre and a new bass and I can't hear anything LOL
Hmm, that's too bad If it's not a bad tube i'm not sure what other electrical issues would cause the symptoms you're describing. Unfortunately I really can't help you past that, but you know TB, i'm sure you'll get some great feedback shortly.
Have you checked that the Effects Loop normalling is OK. Use a short jack-to-jack cable between Fx Send and Fx Return.
Thanks for the reply OBBM. a few questions, what is normalling mean? I assume you mean 1/4 jacks right? I can try it when I get home later. If it works that way what does it mean? Sorry for the dumb questions,just not sure how this all works cause I'm kinda new to this stuff.
One more thing you may want to check up on: If your Tube version has had the input sensitivity adjustment, and your old SS version didn't, it would definately seem quieter. The newer versions have the adjustment already. You can probably check by the serial number, and email BBE. When I had the older versions, I couldn't turn it past 3 or 4. It would be way too overpowering. Now, I pretty much max the Master, and adjust the Input to about 5 or 6, depending on how hot signal from the bass is. +1 on checking the effects loop too.
Did BBE charge you for this upgrade? How long was turnaround, etc. Mine is hot, too, but it doesn't really bother me too much.
Your problem sounds unusual. I would swap out the tube first. Also has this unit had the factory input mod done? Did your solid state have the mod done. I just sold a BMax-T, and the output was about the same as the BMax. I could be something as simple as the preamp getting dropped in shipping. EH makes a Mullard tube that's quite reasonable. My favorite is the Amperex "Hammond" tube. A little pricier, but worth the sound.
I test a BMAX-t with a QSC plx1202 and a avatar 410 pro, not problem, very, VERY LOUDDDDDDD GAIN 2-3, MASTER 2-3 AND and the sound was rumbling the place!!! What about that gain adjustment issue that I read, that require factory adjusment? because I think is not normal to have the gain set 2-3, this is the one that pump the tube, any feedback?
When you have nothing connected to the Fx send and return jack sockets the signal gets passed from one socket to the other via an internal switch in the Fx return socket. When you plug in a jack it changes this switch and accepts the external signal coming in through the Fx Return jack. Sometimes these internal switches become faulty and not pass the signal when no jacks are plugged in. The vcontacts can become dirty and provide a high resistance to the signal resulting in loss in level. I've had this problem on audio mixer insert jacks. I have a BMAX-T and far from having low gain it had originally had very high gain until I did the BBE modification. Now it's just fine.
Thanks everybody for the input. OBBM. thanks for that last explanation it makes perfect sense now. I'll do some more testing and post my findings
you def have a serious problem here. I run a Crest LT 1000 (1300 watts bridge / mono into 4Ohms) and I have the Gain at 10 o'clock and the master at about 9 o'clock and it will clip the power amp any higher. My tube burns very bright. I would contact the seller on ebay ($5 says it was instrument exchange, or the seller's name was GC123 or GC something)
You didn't buy it new so there's a chance the previous owner may have experimented with tubes and replaced the 12ax7 with a 12at7 or 12au7, both tubes with lower gain. Worth checking, cheap to remedy.
No charge for the upgrade. I'd send them an email first to get an RMA #. Turnaround was around 3 weeks because it has to cross the border twice.
When I had the input mod done I got my preamp back within a few days-coast to coast. They're usually pretty quick with that.