B25p deep wine quilt. 5 piece maple with walnut strips. Chrome hardware. Thanks Brian, for the inspiration, and thank you carvin for building me a rock solid bass.
Another beautiful bass. Especially in the color which I want my next B24 in.
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B25p deep wine quilt. 5 piece maple with walnut strips. Chrome hardware. Thanks Brian, for the inspiration, and thank you carvin for building me a rock solid bass.
Also, the pickup knob is reversed (forward for bridge and vise versa). This is fine, and im used to it now, but I just wasn't expecting it.
Grateful said:Bob and Matt: Are your blend knobs wired this way? When I first got mine, it was wired 'normal'. When I got it back from Carvin it was wired like freelance 97's bass.
What's the word?
Question: the action is too low, lots of fret buzz. What is the best way to raise all the strings slightly, truss rod or saddles? I ask because I am used to the "magic truss rod wheel" on Musicman basses, a slight turn corrects action. Does the truss rod on these work the same way?
Thanks.
Yeah...it seems to be a Colorado thang. All my basses arrive this way. If you feel that there's enough relief in the neck, do the saddles.
Yes, the truss rod works the same.
Missed my UPS delivery yesterday, but was able to redirect for pickup. Opened the case to find a beautiful B25S, all white, I bought on eBay. In excellent condition, not a scratch on it. Painted neck feels awesome.
Question: the action is too low, lots of fret buzz. What is the best way to raise all the strings slightly, truss rod or saddles? I ask because I am used to the "magic truss rod wheel" on Musicman basses, a slight turn corrects action. Does the truss rod on these work the same way?
Thanks.
The truss rods are dual action, so it does not totally rely on string tension for bow. You can get precise with it. I'd check to see if the neck totally straight or back-bowed. If neither, then adjust just the saddles. Does it have 'your' strings on it?
I'll let it settle a bit today and give the truss rod a tweak tomorrow. Thanks.
To bad this is not available in 35" scale also.
To bad this is not available in 35" scale also.
Gabriel51 said:To bad this is not available in 35" scale also.
It dosen't need to be 35" scale. The B strings I've played on these basses are as good as any Lakland I've played.
I understand why guys want (need) a 34" neck, but if the B string can be just as good, what's the reason for wanting a longer neck?
Well that's what you hear, however that is not all there is to it.
35" scale allows you to use a lower set-up, you have far less string excursion and unless the player is club fisted you can use under 0.02 (twenty thousandths) nut depth (between the "B" string and the first fret) and even smaller amounts for the other strings. Besides excellent playability this helps with intonation also because the further you push the string to the fret the sharper pitched it is.
Then there is right hand technique and for me it's better because not only is the "B" string tighter, they are all tighter.
Down side; fewer options for strings (minor) and increased string tension (maybe an issue for some?).
Increased length, 1/2" on either side of the 12th fret.
34" is the scale for a four string and some manufactures just add a fifth string and then some make them a 35" which is what a "B" string really needs. (not just for sound)
If you have a 34" scale that works for you that's great and I'm glad for you.
No need to discuss which one sounds better, I've heard some good 34"'s, there is much more to it... Peace!
Well that's what you hear, however that is not all there is to it.
35" scale allows you to use a lower set-up, you have far less string excursion and unless the player is club fisted you can use under 0.02 (twenty thousandths) nut depth (between the "B" string and the first fret) and even smaller amounts for the other strings. Besides excellent playability this helps with intonation also because the further you push the string to the fret the sharper pitched it is.
Then there is right hand technique and for me it's better because not only is the "B" string tighter, they are all tighter.
Down side; fewer options for strings (minor) and increased string tension (maybe an issue for some?).
Increased length, 1/2" on either side of the 12th fret.
34" is the scale for a four string and some manufactures just add a fifth string and then some make them a 35" which is what a "B" string really needs. (not just for sound)
If you have a 34" scale that works for you that's great and I'm glad for you.
No need to discuss which one sounds better, I've heard some good 34"'s, there is much more to it... Peace!
I can come where you're digging....I just can't take that ride with you. er...yea, that's it.
I've played a 33" Nordstrand that has a better B than 95% of the basses out there. My Tyler is a 34, as is my Fender am dlx, and even my Heartfield is a 33.75. My action (according to some) is too low. And yet, all of these basses have wonderful feeling and sounding B's. I've been told by makers I respect that its not about the scale length, its about how its made.
We can agree to disagree on this point. You'll find opinions on both sides. All I'm saying is the Bromberg B25 has a fine B string in my experiences. BUT!!!! Not every bass is the same. There will be dogs every now and again with every maker.
Bob and Matt: Are your blend knobs wired this way? When I first got mine, it was wired 'normal'. When I got it back from Carvin it was wired like freelance 97's bass.
What's the word?