Just graphite the crap outta the end of the bridge legs and use pink peg soap on the threads. If the player is still having a hard time turning the adjusters then they should get back in the practice room and do some Guettler exercises. I'm with Jake, they should be flush on the legs.
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Double Bass Bridge Adjusters Question
- Thread starter Jeff Reed
- Start date
Just graphite the crap outta the end of the bridge legs and use pink peg soap on the threads. If the player is still having a hard time turning the adjusters then they should get back in the practice room and do some Guettler exercises. I'm with Jake, they should be flush on the legs.
I got my bass from Robertson's in 2003 or 2004, and it too has these delrin adjusters with the gap from the short shy hole depth in the bridge leg, as well as the flat/concave shape mismatch -- which doesn't seem to matter if the bridge leg is not meant to bear upon the surface of the wheel. The hole had enough slop for me to wrap some aluminum foil a couple of times around the adjuster shafts.
Sure, these adjusters are really smooth and easy to turn, but I cannot help but thinking that I'm losing some vibrational energy through this installation concept, not to mention the delrin material itself may be too flexible compared to aluminum which is really stiff.
I have to admit that I've calmed down on my strong bridge adjuster opinions. The gapped installation wouldn't be my first choice, but if a client asked me to put them in that way, I'd be fine with it. I have some players that are really focused on smooth their adjusters are, and some that don't seem to care at all. If you are really curious, You could have your luthier shorten the ends of the adjusters so the legs ride on the disks. If you go through with it, please post any perceived differences.
- Oct 12, 2004
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- Retailer: Shen, Sun, older European
That bridge in the first photo with the adjusters all askew needs to be replaced and adjusters properly installed.
I've posted my thoughts on those delrin adjusters in the past. Here is one installed by another shop that literally self destructed while the bass was sitting alone on the rack. It sort of exploded, fell over, and left a big dent in the top of the bass while I was standing on the other side of the room; that was the last day I ever considered using them. Other than that, they sure do turn smooth! I've been making my own adjusters out of titanium stock.
j.
www.condino.com
www.kaybassrepair.com
j.
www.condino.com
www.kaybassrepair.com
James, I'm not a huge fan of those adjusters either, but there are several major shops using them. To me, that suggests that there are hundreds, possibly thousands, of bass bridges with them that are working just fine. While I have a strong bias towards aluminum adjusters, you can't ignore data like that.
I've posted my thoughts on those delrin adjusters in the past. Here is one installed by another shop that literally self destructed while the bass was sitting alone on the rack. It sort of exploded, fell over, and left a big dent in the top of the bass while I was standing on the other side of the room; that was the last day I ever considered using them. Other than that, they sure do turn smooth! I've been making my own adjusters out of titanium stock.
j.
www.condino.com
www.kaybassrepair.com
Based upon the location and direction of the break in the photo, it appears that the shaft was subjected to a strong force "bending" the shaft - not the result of straight downforce.
I've seen many (student's) adjustable bridges with significant misalignment between the lower and upper "halves" of the bridge, mainly caused by the "pull" of the strings over time.
If the adjuster itself doesn't break, then the force (of that misalignment) will be transmitted into the (upper-half) blind hole and may crack that part of the leg, or bind like crazy.
No matter what the adjusters are made of, the alignment of the 2 halves must be near-perfect. Even with adjusters installed, the bridge should look like a solid, 1-piece bridge.
IMHO.
I have the Robertson delrins on my bass installed in short holes, as previously discussed in a short/shy hole. Looking at condino's picture you can see that the wheel was taking some load from the circular wear pattern on the wheel and bridge leg. Additionally, the threads in the bridge must be lubricated such that when the wheel is being turned the shaft(s) do not stick and tear off from twisting ... ever drive a long deck screw with your power drill and twist off the head?
Hi, I have a question on flexible bridge adjusters. I am not starting a new thread on this, as the subject of this one is quite generic. I've had these recently installed by luthier on my bass bridge.
Soundwise these are a good solution. The problem comes when replacing the strings or tuning the bass. E & A strings are pulling the bridge towards fingerboard while tuning the bass. The reason is that they have no screws matching bridge feet and the top part of the bridge. So, once the top part of the bridge is out its original position, you have to hammer it back. That destroys winding of the strings (luckily I was testing the whole thing still using old strings). So, I assume there must be some trick how to do this properly. Any recommendation is more than welcome. Thanks a lot!
Soundwise these are a good solution. The problem comes when replacing the strings or tuning the bass. E & A strings are pulling the bridge towards fingerboard while tuning the bass. The reason is that they have no screws matching bridge feet and the top part of the bridge. So, once the top part of the bridge is out its original position, you have to hammer it back. That destroys winding of the strings (luckily I was testing the whole thing still using old strings). So, I assume there must be some trick how to do this properly. Any recommendation is more than welcome. Thanks a lot!
The trick is that you should round the bridge grooves down on front and back, so that there is no edge that can cut into your string.
Also lubricate the bridge grooves well with the softest pencil you can get in a writers/artists shop.
Even with my normal adjusters the strings catch the bridge and pull it towards the fingerboard.
If I put on new strings my trick is to angle the bridge a bit towards the tailpiece without or less tension so that it gets upright under tension. At least more or less, so less to correct then.
And I always press the bridge backwards when I tuned a string more than a bit. And after tuning each single string.
If you wait until all strings are tuned up the bridge has moved a lot. With a single string you only take the tension of the tuned string off and the bridge keeps in place.
Also lubricate the bridge grooves well with the softest pencil you can get in a writers/artists shop.
Even with my normal adjusters the strings catch the bridge and pull it towards the fingerboard.
If I put on new strings my trick is to angle the bridge a bit towards the tailpiece without or less tension so that it gets upright under tension. At least more or less, so less to correct then.
And I always press the bridge backwards when I tuned a string more than a bit. And after tuning each single string.
If you wait until all strings are tuned up the bridge has moved a lot. With a single string you only take the tension of the tuned string off and the bridge keeps in place.
Thanks for sharing. With your experience of this type of adjuster, my question is do these adjusters work their magic with the bridge at it's lowest setting and the adjuster screws flush with the wood, or should the bridge be raised slightly to allow the enhanced transmission of vibration?
Actually my adjusters are hollow on their bottom side. I currently have the lowest possible setting, and the edge of the screw is slightly touching the corner of the bridge foot. I did not notice any change in sound transmission if bridge is 1 mm up or at its lowest. I took a photo, maybe it can illustrate a little bit.
Greg Clinkingbeard
Commercial User
People are always trying to reinvent the wheel………to make it round.
I see no problem at all with traditional adjusters, and prefer 1/4” x 20 one piece machined aluminum adjusters installed with the threads in the feet.
As previously mentioned by DoubleMIDI, the string paths must be smooth and well lubricated to minimize winding damage. In my experience, Obligatos are less forgiving of neglect than other strings.
I see no problem at all with traditional adjusters, and prefer 1/4” x 20 one piece machined aluminum adjusters installed with the threads in the feet.
As previously mentioned by DoubleMIDI, the string paths must be smooth and well lubricated to minimize winding damage. In my experience, Obligatos are less forgiving of neglect than other strings.
There is nothing wrong with the Moser adjusters. They help to distribute the pressure evenly to the area of the bridge feet, even if the bridge is a little bit angled.
But the key is the little bit. The crown should stay above the area of the bridge feet or there is a higher risk that the bridge may fall. That risk might be a little bit smaller with traditional adjusters.
One problem with the Moser adjusters is that you cannot use Yamahiko or Full Circle pickups. There are a lot of other options available, but it excludes some good pickups.
But the key is the little bit. The crown should stay above the area of the bridge feet or there is a higher risk that the bridge may fall. That risk might be a little bit smaller with traditional adjusters.
One problem with the Moser adjusters is that you cannot use Yamahiko or Full Circle pickups. There are a lot of other options available, but it excludes some good pickups.
Also, the model of the Moser adjuster requires the edges and corners of the top of the ‘feet’ to be rounded/beveled so the bridge can vibrate freely, without the bottom of the adjusters touching the top of the feet. I recently purchased a new bridge with the very same adjusters preinstalled, but with instructions for the luthier to round the edges and corners of the feet. See below.
Your bridge feet’s top hasn’t been rounded according to the instructions of the manufacturer and looks like the ‘blank’ bridge I have. They should look like the picture in the little leaflet in my photo.
Also, please check this instructional video of how to install these very adjusters. You might be able to round the corners and edges yourself, rather than having your luthier do it (@ 4:06 minute mark):
Your bridge feet’s top hasn’t been rounded according to the instructions of the manufacturer and looks like the ‘blank’ bridge I have. They should look like the picture in the little leaflet in my photo.
Also, please check this instructional video of how to install these very adjusters. You might be able to round the corners and edges yourself, rather than having your luthier do it (@ 4:06 minute mark):
I thought maybe this can help anyone with the same issue. It may look silly, but it helped me a lot, when I put the wooden bars between the bridge and fingerboard before replacing the strings. Firstly I took off E & A and put on new strings, then D & G. Eventually no "hammering" of the bridge back to its position was needed.
