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Build II - Paradox MJ5 - New design!

#581
Thanks guys for the compliments and all the great tips on how you cope with this task. I really like sharing building techniques and it is and has been a great contribution to my builds!

Today I glued the side dots in. Instead of buying new CA, I used my tube of UHU Allplast, which I think is a perfect glue for the task (the binding and dots both being plastic) and it is easier to remove if you spill any. I did not apply the glue directly from the tube, but used a toothpick to apply the glue. This prevented using too much glue, as with the binding. All went well, and after cutting off the excess material and sanding the dots flat with the binding, I got this:

Invalid Link Removed

So, now it's time to show off a little:

Almost finished bass neck of my custom hand-built Paradox J5

(The colour of the video doesn't do the Macassar justice, but you'll get the idea...)
 
#588
Thank you all :smug:.

And this build is two weeks shy of one year old. I started designing early 2011, finished the design in March (which started the thread) and started building in August. I knew I didn't have a lot of time, but figured building slowly would still be better than not building at all.

I'm currently thinking about how I will approach the neck carving of the build. After that, things could go fast.

Question: would red dye be okay, to cover with TRU-OIL? I have no experience in spraying lacquer and don't want to ruin anything on this build. I liked the Danish oil, but I need somewhat better protection, more like lacquer. So I figured (and read) TRU-OIL would be a nice comprise. Agree?
 
#589
Why don't you just make your own wiped poly?
It's what I'm doing and it's turning out nicely, and cannot be easier. Drop me a PM if you are interested in a couple of ready to print documents I put together from things I gathered form the internet, or perhaps I can attach them here so they're available for others (all credit go to Drake for pointing me in that direction). Just let me know.
 
#590
octaedro7 said:
Why don't you just make your own wiped poly?
It's what I'm doing and it's turning out nicely, and cannot be easier. Drop me a PM if you are interested in a couple of ready to print documents I put together from things I gathered form the internet, or perhaps I can attach them here so they're available for others (all credit go to Drake for pointing me in that direction). Just let me know.
Click to expand...

Haven't thought of that, but what would be the advantage? I want a good protection and if there's stuff around I can buy that does that for me, it would be great. As you know, I have not much time, so I have to pick my tasks.

How does your poly compare to Danish Oil? Or TRU-OIL?
 
#592
Well poly is one of the most protective finishes around, and basically all you need is the poly lacquer plus (odorless) mineral spirits, so not really difficult to find and likely cheaper.
Now regarding the Danish Oil, be aware that you're likely going to find Rustin's and not Watco, which is the most described here and around the web.
I found Rustin's to be significantly different in it's behavior and results than how Watco's described. Rustin's dries faster, so it's less forgiving, but it produces a more protective coating which can be sanded-polished-buffed to a fairly glossy finish. The finish smells like a horse shed for a very long time (after year, the bass still has that smell) but it does look good. I'd say that Rustin's is more leaned towards lacquer than Watco's. Again, I haven't use the latter, I'm only referencing how people describe it.
I don't have experience with Tru-oil but I believe you'd have to import it, right?
 
#593
octaedro7 said:
Why don't you just make your own wiped poly?
It's what I'm doing and it's turning out nicely, and cannot be easier. Drop me a PM if you are interested in a couple of ready to print documents I put together from things I gathered form the internet, or perhaps I can attach them here so they're available for others (all credit go to Drake for pointing me in that direction). Just let me know.
Click to expand...

Please share. Sounds interesting. :)
 
#595
You should be able to find Tru Oil over there, we have it here in gun shops, so even if you didnt find it in your country you can get some from over here for very little shipping costs. Tru Oil is a varnish, much like any of the others and it will contain something similar to poly in it. You can make your own oil varnishes like this too, by mixing Linseed, or Tung with Poly and thinning a little.
 
#596
I used general finish stain dye: brown and amber.. grain was raised a lil.. sand it down a lil then used tru oil.. turned out pretty good...
Yes... red dye will be ok under tru oil

2012-07-19_17-19-06_483.gif
 
#597
roberthabraken said:
Thank you all :smug:.

And this build is two weeks shy of one year old. I started designing early 2011, finished the design in March (which started the thread) and started building in August. I knew I didn't have a lot of time, but figured building slowly would still be better than not building at all.

I'm currently thinking about how I will approach the neck carving of the build. After that, things could go fast.

Question: would red dye be okay, to cover with TRU-OIL? I have no experience in spraying lacquer and don't want to ruin anything on this build. I liked the Danish oil, but I need somewhat better protection, more like lacquer. So I figured (and read) TRU-OIL would be a nice comprise. Agree?
Click to expand...


Probably you have this product available (Liberon being european company, at least their products are available in UK, chances are in Netherlands too?):

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Link Removed


it looks, smells and behaves very much like Tru-Oil.

In France it is sold under different product name, "Huile Meuble" - "Furniture Oil", maybe in your country it will be sold under this packaging, who knows:
12218.png
 
#598
I've finished both basses in this pic (and few others) with Liberon's Oil:

3206276007_c3afcc3446_b.jpg



The only case where this oil misbehaved was using it with padauk. Something in padauk prevented the oil from drying, it took almost 4 months until it was fully cured...
 
#599
dremy2006 said:
I used general finish stain dye: brown and amber.. grain was raised a lil.. sand it down a lil then used tru oil.. turned out pretty good...
Yes... red dye will be ok under tru oil

2012-07-19_17-19-06_483.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks, sounds convincing, but sure does look so! Nice result you have there!

octaedro7 said:
Well poly is one of the most protective finishes around, and basically all you need is the poly lacquer plus (odorless) mineral spirits, so not really difficult to find and likely cheaper.
Now regarding the Danish Oil, be aware that you're likely going to find Rustin's and not Watco, which is the most described here and around the web.
I found Rustin's to be significantly different in it's behavior and results than how Watco's described. Rustin's dries faster, so it's less forgiving, but it produces a more protective coating which can be sanded-polished-buffed to a fairly glossy finish. The finish smells like a horse shed for a very long time (after year, the bass still has that smell) but it does look good. I'd say that Rustin's is more leaned towards lacquer than Watco's. Again, I haven't use the latter, I'm only referencing how people describe it.
I don't have experience with Tru-oil but I believe you'd have to import it, right?
Click to expand...

Thanks. Well, actually, Tru-oil is very easy to find (I Googled it) and it's being sold by Dutch webshops too (http://www.target-master.nl/product_info.php?products_id=27925), although they probably import it too, but that's none of my concerns :smug:.

I used Danish Oil on my first bass. I think the protection wasn't as great as could be, and it discolored the would considerably. I do not recognize your experience with the smell.

I am surely interested and will drop by in your thread to check out the formula.

fretless_guy said:
I second looking into a wipe on poly. That's what I use. I find it very easy to apply. Leveling takes a little time, but I really like the results. I have a post on it in my build thread (one of the last pages).
Click to expand...

Maybe I am confused, or do not understand the terms fully because English isn't my native language, but I thought Danish Oil and Tru-Oil are boths wipe on poly's. Or is poly something different than those varnishes?
 
#600
roberthabraken said:
Maybe I am confused, or do not understand the terms fully because English isn't my native language, but I thought Danish Oil and Tru-Oil are boths wipe on poly's. Or is poly something different than those varnishes?
Click to expand...

That I don't know. The product I use says wipe on poly on the can. I don't think it's the same since it isn't an oil per say (it's a high solids solution diluted in mineral spirits. Once the mineral spirits flash off, you're left with the solids), but I don't know for sure.
 

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