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Build number 2: at R-V

No, they still won't be completely independent. My Curbow Jazz is set up exactly like that, and each tone control affects both pickups.

Hm...then I am obviously not understanding something. I will do more research. Stealth (or Line6man), if there is any way you could post more information on this topic, that would be extremely helpful. I am still pretty inept when it comes to the way electronics behave.

Are you also planning to tune the shortscale 6-string piccolo bass EADGBE?

Haha, I was wondering when someone would comment on that. Maybe I'll tune it to EADGCF just to be defiant... Bass players at R-V are few and far between this year; only three or four out of 40.
 
After some searching, I learned a little, but I still do not fully understand. I know now that tone controls work parallel to the signal path. So... (*gears turning*) that means that everything between the pickups and the pickup selector (blend pot) runs in parallel... so if you affect the resistance on one side of the path, it also affects the other side? Gah... I need to get a book on this.
 
Stealth, thanks for the schematic. I still have a few questions. :hmm: Firstly, I do not understand how the 200k resistors are able to isolate the tone pots. Can someone elaborate? Second, if I were to add the resistors to the circuit as described, wouldn't they have a considerable effect on the overall tone? Thirdly, if I were to leave the resistors out of the circuit, would each tone knob still function as 50% of overall tone? Ugh...I hate being such a novice. Thank you for the help.
 
Stealth, thanks for the schematic. I still have a few questions. :hmm: Firstly, I do not understand how the 200k resistors are able to isolate the tone pots. Can someone elaborate? Second, if I were to add the resistors to the circuit as described, wouldn't they have a considerable effect on the overall tone? Thirdly, if I were to leave the resistors out of the circuit, would each tone knob still function as 50% of overall tone? Ugh...I hate being such a novice. Thank you for the help.

If you look at the circuit, you'll see that between one pickup, and the opposite pickup's tone pot, there will be a 440k Ohms resistance. If you were to roll that tone pot all the way down, the resistance between the capacitor and the other pickup would be so great, because of the resistors, that the capacitor would not receive enough signal to give a noticeable reduction in high frequency content. It's basically the equivalent of increasing the value of the tone pot for one pickup and not the other.

The problem with these resistors, however, is that they drop the output. You are essentially resisting the signal from the pickups, and converting it into thermal energy instead of letting it pass through to the output.

Without the resistors, when the blend pot is at the center detent, both tone pots would do the same thing, but rolling them both down would increase the capacitance, and drop the frequency cutoff point of the filter. As you turn the blend away from the center detent, one tone would work over one pickup, and the other tone's effect on that pickup would start to decrease, until it no longer did anything.
 
Line6man... you are the man! That totally makes sense. Thanks a million for the clarification. Since I already have four holes drilled in my top, I will throw two tone knobs in there - without resistors.

Thanks again. Oh, and it's neck carving week! Pictures to be posted soon...
 
As promised, more pictures in this update. It was neck carving week, and I lucked out and got to carve with the first group on Monday. Neck carving is such an enjoyable and rewarding experience...although I overheard many people grumbling about it. They were probably grumbling because their lack of patience caused them to have to make a new neck from scratch. :hiding:

Anyway, I neglected to bring my camera on Monday, so I unfortunately did not get any pictures of the carving. However, I threw together a little "guide" of how we did the brunt of the neck carving.

NeckCarving101.jpg


This is how my neck turned out. It feels pretty nice, although plenty thin for my taste. I think it will feel better with strings on it.
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Unfortunately, I made a serious mental error when I was sanding down headstock. For whatever reason, my mind was out to lunch while my hands were still pushing the neck through the thickness sander. Needless to say, the headstock was too thin. The good news is the "repair" for that kind of mistake is a really sweet back cap.

Making a clamping caul
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Preparing the "hippie sandwich". Each laminate is 0.031" thick.
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I glued each laminate on the headstock one at a time. Because they were so thin, they bent to the contour with ease.
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I chose to use polyurethane glue which is not water based in order to prevent any warping that the thin laminates might like to do. However, poly glue creates an awful mess. Luckily, it cleans up a lot easier than you'd think. It also sands without gumming up the paper.
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And the end result! Side-view:
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And the volute:
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I have some finish sanding to do on the neck, but it is all straight, flat, blended, and comfortable.

In other news, I routed out the control cavity (after hogging out the majority of the material with the drill press).
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I also made some really cool wooden knobs by hand. I got them all to within 0.005" of each other at final shape. Brownie points to whoever can guess how I did it without a lathe!
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Alder with walnut caps to match the body.
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Caps squared off
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Roundover
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I think it's gonna look nice.
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I have also started coming up with ideas for the optional third instrument. I will start another thread for that one.
 
More progress this week, with pictures of course.

At last, it was time to install the neck bolts. Here are the pilot holes drilled.
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And the end result: threaded inserts installed, bolt holes and recesses drilled.
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I also finished the wooden control cavity cover. I purchased some 18 gauge sheet aluminum for the backing of the cover. I chose aluminum because it is easy to work with but rigid enough to serve its purpose of keeping the cover flat.
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I used epoxy to glue the wood to the metal.
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From there, I sanded it down to thickness, cut out the shape, and sanded it to a tight fit (to the template). Then I used the template to route out the cover recess.
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It's not quite invisible, but it blends nicely.

I am getting super excited about this. I can't wait to throw some strings and pickups on it and make noise!

In other news...I have all my braces glued onto the acoustic top. Yesterday, I carved them all to final shape which was fun. But I felt like the shavings were trying to tell me something...
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Hm... I wonder what that means?
 
I was finally allowed to get rid of the nasty excess around the neck pocket. Now it is at its final body shape! I did some light carving around the neck joint just to continue the round-over on the back and to blend the round-over on the top into the neck.
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From the back...
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I also was able to carve the neck into the body. It feels MUCH nicer than having the lumpy heel on the neck jutting out from the body.
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In addition, the threaded inserts were installed and super-glued in.
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Made some fret cauls in preparation for fretting. I'll need a longer one for the low frets, though.
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That's it for now. Feel free to check out my other build, too.
 
Very nice! I like that you carried through the s-curve motif to the the end of the fretboard, and reversed at the top of the headstock.

I'm totally not getting how those fret cauls work, though. Is it a flat fretboard?

Thanks for the kind words, Pilot. I'm glad you noticed a few aspects of the design that I actually carefully planned. :)

As for the fret caul, we have not had the demo yet, but we were given a brief idea of how they would work. The cauls are designed to cover two frets. A thin, flexible piece of plastic will go between the caul and the frets. The bars will run parallel to the edges of the fretboard. This will supposedly accommodate the radius of the fretboard. The frets will be hammered in, and then this caul will be used with a cam clamp to press the frets tight against the board while super glue is wicked through the edges of the slots. I hope that makes sense. Once we get to fretting (tomorrow or monday?), I will post pictures of the cauls in use.
 

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