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Built crossover for Avatar cab horn

#22
tallboybass said:
Here's a stupid question. If I keep my tweeter turned off all the time anyway, would I gain any highs by taking the crossover & tweeter out of the circuit, or do they only add highs?

Sorry to jump in with this, but it sounds like you guys would know the answer.

Thanks, Alan
Click to expand...

You mean more highs from the woofer itself? If it's an Avatar cab, the answer is no. There's nothing there at the moment stopping the highs from getting to the woofer. They don't have a full-blown crossover - It's more a high-pass filter for the horn only.
 
#23
It is not that they add highs. The speaker can only produce in a certain low to low medium range. The horn works to pass the mid to highs. The cap crossover protects the horn by only allowing everything above a certain range, say 3.5-4Khz to the horn as lows can burn them out. The crossover circuit does effect the speaker to some degree by being in the circuit. Remove it and you just get what the speaker itself produces without any interferance.
 
#24
Petebass said:
You mean more highs from the woofer itself? If it's an Avatar cab, the answer is no. There's nothing there at the moment stopping the highs from getting to the woofer. They don't have a full-blown crossover - It's more a high-pass filter for the horn only.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I've been needing to know that for a long time.

Alan
 
#27
LoveThatBass said:
I actually like the sound of the speaker as it is slightly affected by the horn crossover.
My son noticed it sounds a bit deeper. I thought it but figured I was hearing things until he walked in and confirmed it. He is not even musically inclined. :bassist:
Click to expand...

Is there a possibility you were playing louder? I know I certainly do whenever I'm happy-jamming my new creations or purchases. So they always seem to have more bottom end until I remember Fletcher Munson.
 
#28
Here is another way to do it that doesn't cost anything and it is fun too. Open up the cabinet or remove the input panel so you can get to the crossover. Clip all the wires coming out of the crossover. Hook the "+" wire from the woofer and the "+" wire coming from the tweeter to the "+" or tip connection on the input jack. Connect the "-" from both the woofer and the tweeter to the "-" or sleeve connection on the input jack. If there is a small lightbulb in one of the lines going to the tweeter, this must be bypassed with a short jumper wire. Then reassemble the cabinet and turn your amp up to about 80% power. Start playing and watch the cabinet for signs of smoke or fire. In a few minutes your horn problem will be solved and you will notice a big improvement in your sound. Enjoy.
 
#29
Joe Beets said:
Here is another way to do it that doesn't cost anything and it is fun too. Open up the cabinet or remove the input panel so you can get to the crossover. Clip all the wires coming out of the crossover. Hook the "+" wire from the woofer and the "+" wire coming from the tweeter to the "+" or tip connection on the input jack. Connect the "-" from both the woofer and the tweeter to the "-" or sleeve connection on the input jack. If there is a small lightbulb in one of the lines going to the tweeter, this must be bypassed with a short jumper wire. Then reassemble the cabinet and turn your amp up to about 80% power. Start playing and watch the cabinet for signs of smoke or fire. In a few minutes your horn problem will be solved and you will notice a big improvement in your sound. Enjoy.
Click to expand...
So what's you're next step Jo - how about going to a thread about fretless basses and tell em how to add frets?

Horns have their place. If you don't like em, that's fine. Live and let live.
 
#35
The diagram you showed below was a third order butterworth.

I don't want to ask too much from you, but do you have a good resource for wiring up the 4th order linkwitz, and what Kimbercaps did you use for this?

I just want to make sure I order the right caps and get the design right.

Thanks for any more help that you can give on this!
 
#36
Use the diagram for the Butterworth but change the 10uf (C2) cap to 6.8uf then add a 1.10mh Inductor to the output to the horn and ground.
I got the Caps and Coils from Partsexpress and the board and connector from Mouser.
I used the "Perfect Layer" inductors (18 gauge 300 watt) and KimberKaps but you can use cheaper Dayton caps if you are on a tight budget. I am shure they would sound decent enough and are about $3.00 or so a piece.
Gary
 
#38
Parts:

KimberKaps

C1: 3.2uf
Invalid Link Removed

C2: 6.8uf
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Inductors (Perfect Layer)
L1: 0.24mh (14gauge) Note: used for part value only...can be smaller 18 gauge.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
OR
(.22mh 18gauge should do fine)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

L2: 1.10mh (18gauge)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
...................................................................................................
Less expensive cap's
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#40
So would it be like this diagram?
attachment.jpg


Just making sure...

And we can just run the input to this crossover from the pad, or do we lose the tweeter pad?

Just making sure. Not all that experienced with wiring diagrams (done a lot of soldering though, so I'm looking forward to trying this :-)

Thanks again!
 

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