Yes, your diagram is correct.
The L-PAD needs to be on the output of the crossover between it and the horn.
The L-PAD needs to be on the output of the crossover between it and the horn.
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Built crossover for Avatar cab horn
- Thread starter LoveThatBass
- Start date
I am considering purchasing some less expensive caps and building another crossover to compare with the KimberKaps.
I really enjoy my Avatar cab now that I have a decent sounding horn. If anyone has used the Dayton or Solen caps or any others for that matter in a crossover, please post your results here.
Gary
I really enjoy my Avatar cab now that I have a decent sounding horn. If anyone has used the Dayton or Solen caps or any others for that matter in a crossover, please post your results here.
Gary
LoveThatBass said:
I'd like to attempt this mod but have a few other questions I need clarified:
Does the crossover recipe above also work for 4ohm cabs?
what is an L-PAD is?
would someone be kind enough to draw up a quick schematic of what the cab wiring looks like before and after the xover mod (this would really clear things up for me). I have a 210RPO and a B212 (both @ 4ohms)
after this mod does the existing tweeter control dial still affect the tops?
thanks in advance!
I am also interested in this MOD, however, I would like to know if this Schematic would work for Soft Dome Tweeters.
The only ones that I know of at the moment are the Audax type.
possibly this.. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The only ones that I know of at the moment are the Audax type.
possibly this.. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
LoveThatBass said:
I've used the Solen caps for years. They are a great value. They're not Kimber Kaps, but for bass guitar they are more than adequate.
Ralf
remo said:
The nominal impedance of the cab is irrelevent because it usually reflects the nominal impedance of the woofer(s). We're only interested in the horn. You'll have to pull the horn out of your cab and see what it's nominal impedance rating is. The woofer(s) may be 4 ohms, but there's a very good chance the horn will be 8 ohms.
This formula works for any 8 ohms horn, including silk domes. I used it on my Peerless 811647 silk dome and it works beautifully.
Note a 4 ohm horn will need slightly different capacitor and inductor values which are:-
C1= 6.03 uF
L1= 0.11 mH
C2= 12.06 uF
L2= 0.51 mH
I have a schematic diagram lying around somewhere. I'll attach it as soon as I find it.
Here it is.
For a horn, you need the high-pass filter, the one at the top.
Oh and an L-pad is basically 2 resistors which are used to turn the horn down if it's too loud. One in series, one in parallel, the values of the resistors will vary depending on how much you want to turn the horn down.
A Variable L-pad if what you see on a lot of cabs, basically a knob which lets you set the level of the horn with a dial.
For a horn, you need the high-pass filter, the one at the top.
Oh and an L-pad is basically 2 resistors which are used to turn the horn down if it's too loud. One in series, one in parallel, the values of the resistors will vary depending on how much you want to turn the horn down.
A Variable L-pad if what you see on a lot of cabs, basically a knob which lets you set the level of the horn with a dial.
Solen caps, Dayton Caps and others will work.
Just get a decent Polyprophyline cap for audio.
The only thing that matters is the impedance of the horn. For the values mentioned are for an 8 ohm horn. The 1st cap isolates the horn from the speaker in your cab so you cab can be 4, 8, 16 ohm or whatever..just so the horn is 8 ohms.
Just get a decent Polyprophyline cap for audio.
The only thing that matters is the impedance of the horn. For the values mentioned are for an 8 ohm horn. The 1st cap isolates the horn from the speaker in your cab so you cab can be 4, 8, 16 ohm or whatever..just so the horn is 8 ohms.
If the crossover is a really simple single capacitor in series type circuit, say into 2x8 ohm horns in parallel (equivalent of 1x4 ohm)
Does that capacitor *still* have the 'isolating' from the rest of the cab?
Does that capacitor *still* have the 'isolating' from the rest of the cab?
Jazzin,
Yes a 12db crossover at 3.5Khz would be better but would, depending on EQ and the particular bass get distortion some times.
Unless you have a cab with speakers that go to 4khz I do not recommend a crossover at 4 khz. I tried it with my B115H cab with a speaker that was rated 2500 hz at top end and it was:
a. tinny sounding
b. disconnected from the overall sound. In other words it sounded separated from the speaker instead of working together.
Yes a 12db crossover at 3.5Khz would be better but would, depending on EQ and the particular bass get distortion some times.
Unless you have a cab with speakers that go to 4khz I do not recommend a crossover at 4 khz. I tried it with my B115H cab with a speaker that was rated 2500 hz at top end and it was:
a. tinny sounding
b. disconnected from the overall sound. In other words it sounded separated from the speaker instead of working together.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,084
- 46,056
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I decide to give building a 4th order crossover for another brand of speaker a whirl, but I figured I'd post the info here in case it's helpful to any Avatar owners. I decided I could modify the Parts Express 2-way 12dB card, part #260-120, to make a "simple" 24dB high pass. Here's what it looks like:
Link Removed
All it takes for modifications is drilling a few holes in the board, and ignoring the screened on terminal labeling.
I labeled the terminals in Photoshop to help any of you DIY'ers on your way. I'm sure someone's gonna ask, but no, I'm not looking to sell any. 
It's sounds really nice in the cab I dropped it into, but I'll wait till I gig with it to do an actual review.
Link Removed
All it takes for modifications is drilling a few holes in the board, and ignoring the screened on terminal labeling.
I labeled the terminals in Photoshop to help any of you DIY'ers on your way. I'm sure someone's gonna ask, but no, I'm not looking to sell any. It's sounds really nice in the cab I dropped it into, but I'll wait till I gig with it to do an actual review.
Hey Charlie, did you ever gig this rig? What's the verdict?Passinwind said:I decide to give building a 4th order crossover for another brand of speaker a whirl, but I figured I'd post the info here in case it's helpful to any Avatar owners. I decided I could modify the Parts Express 2-way 12dB card, part #260-120, to make a "simple" 24dB high pass. Here's what it looks like:
Link Removed
All it takes for modifications is drilling a few holes in the board, and ignoring the screened on terminal labeling.
It's sounds really nice in the cab I dropped it into, but I'll wait till I gig with it to do an actual review.
Question:
Avatar's original crossover design was soundly rejected by all the TB crossover wizards.
Now Avatar claims to be installing a new improved crossover.
I don't know diddly about crossovers, but I'm wondering if people still find this new improved version unacceptable, or if these replacements are being done to the old version.
I can't tell you if an order of Mrs. Butterworths comes with it or not, or whether there are any linkwitz it either...
Avatar's original crossover design was soundly rejected by all the TB crossover wizards.
Now Avatar claims to be installing a new improved crossover.
I don't know diddly about crossovers, but I'm wondering if people still find this new improved version unacceptable, or if these replacements are being done to the old version.
I can't tell you if an order of Mrs. Butterworths comes with it or not, or whether there are any linkwitz it either...
Very punny!Cristo said:Question:
Avatar's original crossover design was soundly rejected by all the TB crossover wizards.
Now Avatar claims to be installing a new improved crossover.
I don't know diddly about crossovers, but I'm wondering if people still find this new improved version unacceptable, or if these replacements are being done to the old version.
I can't tell you if an order of Mrs. Butterworths comes with it or not, or whether there are any linkwitz it either...
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,084
- 46,056
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Bassic83 said:
It's still in my Schroeder 1210, quite a few gigs later. Works better than the stocker for my twisted purposes, but the stock Schro one wasn't too bad at all to begin with. It'd be good for the older Avatars too, I'm sure.
billfitzmaurice
Commercial User
- Sep 15, 2004
- 16,860
- 278
- 76
- Disclosures
- Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
The new crossover is a vast improvement upon the old, but still pales in comparison to the 4th order high-pass filter that is the subject of this thread.
Is there anyone here who has actually heard the old and new crossovers, and can comment on the differences? Or are we strictly talking theory? What I'm wondering is, if the tweeter levels are adjusted to the same output level (actual output, not knob position), will the new one sound noticeably better? If so, I'll order 3 of them for my cabs.
