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cab building pros - help needed

just got this cab http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=130099077746&rd=1&rd=1

it's a holdover until my omni 10 project can resume this fall:bawl: (work schedule conflicts with woodshop friend)

mine is a hollow empty box, no internal bracing. it's front loaded (obviously). to use betalite s2010's in this as a standalone should there be insulation or baffling? should i brace the cab, if so how would you suggest? i don't understand the physics of cab design, only how to follow directions and assemble things.

thanks for helping.
 
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The ad says, "It’s been ported right to work with just about anything."
This is your first clue.

:spit:

Also according to the ad, this is a 3.1 cubic foot internal box. For two drivers, that makes 1.55 cubic feet per driver. The only Eminence driver that comes really close is the Beta 10cx. The Basslite CH2010 is somewhat in the ballpark.

This is a slam-bam-thank-you-ma'am cab designed to fit nothing in particular. Without knowing the tuning, this cab is a total crap shoot. If you need a box to hold a couple of spare drivers, it will do the job. If you want a cab matched to your drivers, I'd pass on this one.

The 3/4" construction is typical. Build it too-heavy to avoid the labor required to brace a lighter weight cab. The technique works, but it is heavy.
 
This is your first clue.

:spit:

Also according to the ad, this is a 3.1 cubic foot internal box. For two drivers, that makes 1.55 cubic feet per driver. The only Eminence driver that comes really close is the Beta 10cx. The Basslite CH2010 is somewhat in the ballpark.

This is a slam-bam-thank-you-ma'am cab designed to fit nothing in particular. Without knowing the tuning, this cab is a total crap shoot. If you need a box to hold a couple of spare drivers, it will do the job. If you want a cab matched to your drivers, I'd pass on this one.

The 3/4" construction is typical. Build it too-heavy to avoid the labor required to brace a lighter weight cab. The technique works, but it is heavy.

So is there any reason to insulate/line the inside of this box?
Should I just put in a pair of cheapo whatever drivers and call it good enough rather than using the S2010?
 
As you mention Omni 10, why not buy the drivers for the Omni 10 and use them in the small cab until you can continue with the construction project.

my intentions exactly.
the post from bgavin had me thinking i shouldn't use them in this box.

it's only a temporary (until the omni is complete) for stage monitoring and practice (as will the omni).

still wondering should i use the foam inside just like the omni?
 
the post from bgavin had me thinking i shouldn't use them in this box.
You won't break them unless you push them too hard. They just won't sound as good as they would if properly enclosed.

I'm not into doing things half-assed so I would pass completely on that combination. YMMV.

For me, if I don't have time to do it right the first time, I don't have time to go back later and make it right.
 
With the time/money spent on something to use while waiting to build an Omni10, I bet you could have built one already. I did, and so have others. I don't have a workshop, I'm pretty busy, but here's one:
That's a good point. I think Bill's instructions are geared towards not needing a lot of tools.

One further idea for the OP. Did you get the plans yet? That's a pretty small investment, and you might be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is.
 
Oh yes, got the plans a while ago and it took over a month to locate a supplier for the plywood (regional lumbar suppliers don't have listings in the yellow pages).

I already have the Legion 2x10 in my basement, just haven't ordered drivers yet. I'm in no major hurry with the Omni, I'd prefer doing it in an actual woodshop with the right tools/clamps etc. than buying those things to use one time.

I understand there are compromises with this box, it will get me by better than what I'm using at the moment.
 
Revived for one last question.

cab specs are:

23” x 18” x 16”
¾” 13ply Agathis construction
3.11 sq. ft. internal cubic airspace
Internally braced
Dual 9.25” hole cutouts ready for your 10” drivers
PT307 3.5” piezo tweeter installed already
Jack plate with dual ¼” air sealed connectors

I've got this thing completed with S2010's. It's now lined with mattress topper and internally braced anywhere possible. Will those drivers be safe in this enclosure at 300 watts? (Gallien-Krueger Backline 600)
 
New question regarding the box in this thread....I've finished the Omni10 build and now am considering modifying the empty box in question (specs in post immediately preceding this one). I'd like to turn this into a single 15 at a 4 ohm load. What driver might you recommend? (or maybe a 12 would work better)
 
New question regarding the box in this thread....I've finished the Omni10 build and now am considering modifying the empty box in question (specs in post immediately preceding this one). I'd like to turn this into a single 15 at a 4 ohm load. What driver might you recommend? (or maybe a 12 would work better)
Whatever you do don't use it along with the O10. You should avoid mixing different cabs even when they're both direct radiators, doing so when one is a horn never works well.
 
Thanks for the input Bill - Is this because of the mismatched efficiency between the cabs? I used the O10 with lows rolled off and a single 15 combo with highs cut out to fill the bottom with okay results - I preferred it to boosting the low end when using the O10 solo.

I know a Tuba underneath the O10 is going to be more suitable. I'll have to hit the forum and locate an experienced builder in my area willing to build one for me - the Omni build was about the limits of my skills and time availablity - the Tuba build will most certainly be above my patience for new things!

So, in the meantime - against your advice, I think I'll forge ahead with the idea of putting a 15 into this box....if nothing else it's a cab to leave at our practice space to limit extra gear in transport.