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Car Subwoofer for a Low-End Cab?

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None. Get a real bass cab.

I have several real bass cabs..



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If you are looking to build a true bi-amped bass rig a car audio sub probably won't spec out well mechanically. IMO you may want to look at a PA sub.

Yes I have looked at all PA subs.. Not very impressive.. The quality Home Theater subs are much better sounding.. and those drivers are similar the large car audio subs.. Hence my original question..
 
Yes I have looked at all PA subs.. Not very impressive.. The quality Home Theater subs are much better sounding.. and those drivers are similar the large car audio subs.. Hence my original question..
PA subs are designed for "live" sound. Home audio gear is not. Application is relevant here. May I ask what you are trying to achieve?
 
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Hey guys, looking to get some information on using a car subwoofer to fill in the low-end on my bass rig.. What driver would you use and why?

Cheers,

Your PR410HLF are already rated -3dB to 33hz and -10dB to 29hz.
Sensitivity is 96dB.

AFAIK Car subs generally rely on cabin gain to get anywhere close to these specs, unless you get into pretty esoteric stuff. In other words, most car stuff will not match the efficiency or extension of these cabs in half space.

If you are really into deep bass, just get another pair of PR410HLFs. Four PR410HLFs and an amp that powers them well should totally pound. If that's not enough, double up and get four more.

My interpretation of the specs is once they start rolling off, the response drops like a brick. That also probably means the drivers unload and start jumping around without any sort of control. I would highly suggest that you run a HPF around 32hz or so to protect the drivers.

You're probably not going to make a lot of friends putting out such massive lows, but as long as your happy, right :eek:? You've been sort of warned of the likely consequences, but you are certainly free to learn from you own experiences, instead of the mistake of others :rolleyes:.

Good luck :woot:!
 
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