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Carvin LB75 ressurection

Time to start thinking about the preamp. As far as I can tell there is only one capacitor that needs changing for 18V operation. The large bluer one in the photo is a 470uf 16V so I will replace it with a 25V. All others are rated for 18 volt or more. The IC can accept 18 volt as well. It will still be able to run on 9 volt if I want. So I have a new dual battery box the same style as the original single to mount. Last consideration would be a slide switch mounted to the cover so I can select 9V, 18V or external power via the output jack. I'll ask here as well in case anyone has mapped oput the schematic before to maybe save me some time?
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Time to start thinking about the preamp. As far as I can tell there is only one capacitor that needs changing for 18V operation. The large bluer one in the photo is a 470uf 16V so I will replace it with a 25V. All others are rated for 18 volt or more. The IC can accept 18 volt as well. It will still be able to run on 9 volt if I want. So I have a new dual battery box the same style as the original single to mount. Last consideration would be a slide switch mounted to the cover so I can select 9V, 18V or external power via the output jack. I'll ask here as well in case anyone has mapped oput the schematic before to maybe save me some time?View attachment 4494529 View attachment 4494530

My guess is that the 18 V will sound the same so long as you don't have any clipping at 9 V. I don't have a schematic, but I am curious why you need one.

Also, is the 16 V cap across both the supply leads? If not then it probably would only see half the voltage, in which case you wouldn't even need to replace that one.
 
The majority of operational amplifier chips (the heart of most preamp circuits) are good to 30-36V (+/- 15-18V supply rails.) Specific models are optimized for operation from lower voltages and "single-sided" (+9V/-0V for instance) and then there are various tricks with the circuit behavior (and part choice) trading off "how fast you kill the battery" .vs. noise, etc.

As such, it's normally not going to be consistently better performance, or even noticeable, changing the input voltage alone. But you're usually (less so with some more-modern low-volt optimized chips) going to be safe from frying the chip with too much voltage.
 
My guess is that the 18 V will sound the same so long as you don't have any clipping at 9 V. I don't have a schematic, but I am curious why you need one.

Also, is the 16 V cap across both the supply leads? If not then it probably would only see half the voltage, in which case you wouldn't even need to replace that one.
I need a schematic to review the EQ circuit to see if I wish to change anything. I'll probably draw one out. 18 volt should give higher headroom and lower noise floor. Having said that my main reason to have 18 available is to standardize my equipment as my other basses are 18 volt supplied externally.
 
One small operation today. I needed to open out the recess for the battery box as a portion was lost with the center strip replacement. I've also changed my mind again and probably for the last time. I will leave the single battery box and keep the bass operating at 9 volts but I will change the one cap for 18 volt operation as well. What I will do is add a small flush slide switch to the back cover so that either onboard battery of external power can be selected. Onboard voltage will always be 9 volt but the external can be either 9 or 18 volt. That will make it compatible with my setup and also maintain some more originality.
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I gotta say @Slidlow, this is some of your finest work. The new lease on life you've given this poor bass is unreal. I don't know what you paid for it, but you're gonna end up with a very nice, high value bass out of something that was probably gonna be trashed. :thumbsup: :cool:
Well done, you're way braver than I. And way more skilled too. Unbelievable! :cool: :cool: :cool:
Thank you for the kind words. The skill is just a matter of time and practice so you as well and most here can get there. The owner had this up on Facebook local and wanted so see it fixed and not trashed. He had over 50 replies and I suspect most (if not all) would have just cannibalized it for the bridge and pickups. It took some talking but he finally let me have it, probably less then what the bridge and pickups were worth. And I guess it had to be that amount as it needed a lot to bring it back. I offered to send him pictures but haven't heard from him. Right now I am just cleaning some things up waiting on the new headstock decal and Gotoh tuners so I can finish, final assemble and test drive it.
 
Just checked the mail and there was five new Gotoh GB707 gold tuners:hyper:. These will be a huge improvement over the very poor quality originals:rollno:. Now if I had the headstock decal I could start the finish:thumbsup:.View attachment 4499338
I recently purchased and rebuilt a Carvin Bunny Brunell 5 string fretless. The tuners were original and I also decided to replace them with some official Gotoh machines. From my little experience with Carvins the build of the body seems to be solid but the hardware, electronics and pickups were middle of the pack. I installed a 4-band Noll EQ into mine and it made a noticeable difference in sound quality. As such I found it curious that you were going out of your way to keep the stock EQ. It's worth the upgrade.
 
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I recently purchased and rebuilt a Carvin Bunny Brunell 5 string fretless. The tuners were original and I also decided to replace them with some official Gotoh machines. From my little experience with Carvins the build of the body seems to be solid but the hardware, electronics and pickups were middle of the pack. I installed a 4-band Noll EQ into mine and it made a noticeable difference in sound quality. As such I found it curious that you were going out of your way to keep the stock EQ. It's worth the upgrade.
Actually I am not "going out of my way" to keep the stock EQ:cautious:. It works and initially I tried it through an amp and found it worked quite well:woot:. So I'll keep it for now and evaluate it again once the bass is back together;).