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Carvin SB5000 / SB4000 Roll Call...Part 8!

Sorry if this has been asked before, but has anyone compared the standard jazz pickup configuration with a MM/J configuration with these basses?

After hearing a few sound clips of the standard jazz pickup configuration, I think I might go with it because it sounds pretty beefy, but defined. My problem with most standard jazz setups is that there is a pretty big dip in the mids. These basses seem pretty full throughout the range.
 
Here are the specs from the Carvin site. Either they're sloppy with the specs on the site, or all three of their bolt on 5ers have slightly different necks.

B50:
1.75" wide @ nut, 2.95" wide @ 22nd fret, .82" thick @ 1st fret

PB5:
1.76" wide @ nut, 3.00" wide @ 22nd fret; .79" thick @ 1st fret

SB5000:
1.75" wide @ nut, 3.0" wide @ 22nd fret; .83" thick @ 1st fret
 
Here are the specs from the Carvin site. Either they're sloppy with the specs on the site, or all three of their bolt on 5ers have slightly different necks.

B50:
1.75" wide @ nut, 2.95" wide @ 22nd fret, .82" thick @ 1st fret

PB5:
1.76" wide @ nut, 3.00" wide @ 22nd fret; .79" thick @ 1st fret

SB5000:
1.75" wide @ nut, 3.0" wide @ 22nd fret; .83" thick @ 1st fret

They could be getting a little sloppy because I've heard repeatedly since the B50 and SB5000 1st came out is that they share the exact same neck.
 
SB4: 1.53" wide @ nut, 2.5" wide @ 20th fret; .83" thick @ 1st fret

B40: 1.53" wide @ nut, 2.50" wide @ 22nd fret; .82" thick @ 1st fret

PB4: 1.54" wide @ nut, 2.48" wide @ 20th fret; .79" thick @ 1st fret
 
Everyone... Meet Onyx. :)

More pix when I can get better light.

5sg.

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I apologize if this has been asked already, but where did you get that strap?

That bass is freakin incredible looking, btw. I wish I could play it!
 
SB4: 1.53" wide @ nut, 2.5" wide @ 20th fret; .83" thick @ 1st fret

B40: 1.53" wide @ nut, 2.50" wide @ 22nd fret; .82" thick @ 1st fret

PB4: 1.54" wide @ nut, 2.48" wide @ 20th fret; .79" thick @ 1st fret

The paper catalog says the PB4 is 1.54 at nut, 2.5 at heel, and .78 thick at first fret. So, it seems there's even inconsistency between the web specs and the paper catalog.
 
*** Out For Delivery ***
:hyper::hyper::hyper::hyper:


Finally pulled the trigger....

WT - Walnut Top
MAH - Maple Neck/Mahogany Body
CG - Clear Gloss Finish (Standard)
5MW - 5-Piece Maple Neck w/ 2 Walnut Stripes
TN - Tung Oil Finish Back Of Neck (Standard)
SBH - SB-Style Headstock (Standard)
BMF - Birdseye Maple Fingerboard (Tung-Oiled)
DBM - Black Mother of Pearl Diamond Inlays
6130 - Low-Wide Frets .036" H .106" W
R14 - 14in Fretboard Radius (Standard)
HB2 - HB Alnico Bridge Humbucker/J9A Alnico Neck Pickup
BLK - Black Pickups
AC - Active/Passive Electronics (Guitars Have Coil Splitters, Phase Switch)
- added coil tap switch (push-pull on bridge volume)
MBS - Stacked Mid Sweep Replaces Tone Control (Must Order AC)
CH - Chrome Hardware (Standard)
BL - Black Logo
SL - Dunlop Straplocks
BG - Black Multi-Layer Pickguard
HC8W - Black Tolex Wide Hardshell Bass Case

Visualization:
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Wish me luck on the actual bass coming close to this look, which is what I based the build after.
Coil tap on the HB bridge pickup is extra.

Estimated 7 weeks out.

**pins & needles**
 
Actual photos - none so great as I haven't had the time just yet:

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As far as the electronics:
- The Neck PU is not a push-pull, and located 2nd
- The Bridge PU is located first and is a push-pull for coil tap
- the 3rd knob is a push-pull for active/passive and tone
- the 4th is the bass/treble

not bad except the first and second knobs are switched - haven't looked inside to see if I can switch to correct spot.

Sounds great! Love the grain.
 
As far as the electronics:
- The Neck PU is not a push-pull, and located 2nd
- The Bridge PU is located first and is a push-pull for coil tap
- the 3rd knob is a push-pull for active/passive and tone
- the 4th is the bass/treble

not bad except the first and second knobs are switched - haven't looked inside to see if I can switch to correct spot.

Sounds great! Love the grain.

Are the knobs supposed to be switched or is that an error from the factory?