What is zebrawood like when used as a board? I've never owned zebrawood, or even played on it.
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What is zebrawood like when used as a board? I've never owned zebrawood, or even played on it.
I've been asking around about that both here and on the Kiesel forum - I'm a little worried about the nut reach with the 34" AW5 I have on order. I wasn't able to try one before buying.
Having owned and currently own many Carvin 5 strings the reach is quite comfortable and my hands are on the smaller side. Post some pics of the AW5 when you can!
(Assuming you don't have a Vader - if you do, ignore this.)
This is more of a headless issue - it's common for the nut/zero fret to be more out there than is usual for a headed bass, so when you reach for the first fret you land at the third or fourth. Body design helps with this; I've heard conflicting reports how this is with the 34" scale Vaders. We'll see!
I have been playing a Vader 4 at a local music store recently and I didn't notice any abnormalities. Since I'm not accustom to playing headless the lack of visual reference of the head stock did take some acclimation.
The 30" scale VB5 is appealing, but it would also be unlikely to come across one in the wild and I am a bit reluctant to spend 2k on a new one.
The 30" scale VB5 is appealing, but it would also be unlikely to come across one in the wild and I am a bit reluctant to spend 2k on a new one.
Thank you for that - I've found it's more apparent with some headless designs than others. I think I'm going to try and find a Vader somewhere close enough to drive and check out. I'd really prefer sticking with 34" scale like I ordered!
Have any of you come up with a string changing ritual? The first set I mounted had to be done twice because I had them too long, I did better with the second set this morning.
You have to be careful that the ball end is completely in the claw before tightening, too.
You have to be careful that the ball end is completely in the claw before tightening, too.
The one I saw wasnt very useful for bass. What I’m looking for is suggested claw starting points for each string, like what you see for locking guitar tuners.
However it ships from the factory, should be fairly close to intonated. So unless you get wild one day with your screws, starting points for the saddles shouldn't be a problem. Otherwise, this video, I feel, is quite clear:
I had no issues
Fully forward can result in the balls not being under the bridgeplate at all once turned to pitch.
Oooops! I take it the ballend has the tendency to pop up & out when under any degree of string tension?
Riis
No, not automatically - but if the ballend isn’t at least partially under the bridgeplate all the upward twisting force is placed on the two very small tabs on the claw that retain the ballend. It’s a well designed system, but installing the strings the correct length is important.
I just watched the linked video - I think I have seen that before after all.
That’s how I mounted the first strings - starting with the ballends just slightly under the bridgeplate. After trimming and setting the strings back to shield the cut ends, I ran out of adjustment room on all five strings so had to trim each again. These were EB Cobalt flats.
For the new set of rounds I just mounted, I started with the ball ends clear of the bridgeplate but not fully extended. I guessed wrong:
I think I’ll have to go back to the original way I did it and just live with having to retrim the strings. Practice makes perfect...
That’s how I mounted the first strings - starting with the ballends just slightly under the bridgeplate. After trimming and setting the strings back to shield the cut ends, I ran out of adjustment room on all five strings so had to trim each again. These were EB Cobalt flats.
For the new set of rounds I just mounted, I started with the ball ends clear of the bridgeplate but not fully extended. I guessed wrong:
I think I’ll have to go back to the original way I did it and just live with having to retrim the strings. Practice makes perfect...
