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Chance to buy an Original Gibson Ripper

Hey all:

An acquaintance has a Gibson Ripper that he might be willing to sell.....

He is a music fan, and at one of our practices he noticed my '77 Guild B-302 and told me about the Ripper. He does not really play bass and has had it over 20 years

I'm intrigued by it because it's a glued neck like the Guild and in the music circles where I travel they are popular. I think vintage style is cool. It's been mentioned here that Krist Novoselic played one but also a number of heavy psych bands play them too. I know a guy in a heavy local band who plays one.

So it comes down to what is it worth and do I like it?

I have the bass in my possession, and I would list it's current condition as fair/good:

1. hasn't been stored properly - there is a strong smell of mildew from the case though none is visible. It has been sitting on the floor of his basement for a long long time (in the case of course).

2. There is a crack (see pic) thru body between outer edge and electronics cavity

3. Standard 35+ year old finish checking over 100% of the bass. Lot's of dings dents, definitely not mint.

4. Electronics have quite a bit of corrosion on them, but they are all original. All the switches turn but I haven't tested yet.

5. Original bridge cover and even the foam rubber pieces for muting are still there.

6. Tuning machines fine, nicely vintaged corrosion, need lubrication

7. Original bridge and saddles fine.

8. Case is in good shape except for the smell which I'm treating with Febreeze... No tears to speak of, key still in unopened envelope, catches all working. Nice Purple plush.

Serial number begins with 73...... from what I've read I guess that makes it a 1973 then right? Could it really be one of the first 20 made? What does that mean for value?

That would make it maple as opposed to the few years of Alder....


I will have a luthier check it out before I make a final offer to make sure neck is straight and truss rod working...

Conclusion: 5 or 6 out of 10?

I'm into vintage instruments but I'm not a collector - If I can't make it rock then I don't need it. I realize these have become all the rage recently but I won't pay an inflated cost just to say I have a ripper. In contrast, my B-302 is a great player and in better shape cosmetically and I paid just over 700 for it last year. Ripper is way way lighter than that punishing battle axe.

What do you feel it's worth? What would you offer?

Thanks,

CM

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I suppose it really depends on what he's gonna sell it for....
But do you really need another bass?

No no, you don't understand....

He's not asking a particular price - I'm making an offer.

He is aware that some have been on ebay with the asking price of 1000 and beyond but those were in really good condition.

I don't quite know what he's expecting - don't want to offend but .....

other suggestions?
 
Well, given that the new ones that are expensive as hell are only a 1 time thing...Gibson WON'T be making anymore - from the mouth of our Gibson rep(who unlike my Monster cable guy...he's legit)...I'd say make an offer around $500, see if he bites, if not, see what he'd be comfy with.

No problem with offering half(of the $1000 you saw em go for before), you figure you could probably end up around $750 with it?

What's it worth to you?
 
The year of the bass is the 1st and the 5th number of the serial number, not the 1st and 2nd.

I'm confused - can you better explain how to date it?

I've found this on the internet:

"Note that the serial number is in the form of a decal, which also includes the model name. Instruments with this numbering follow their own dating method. The first two digits give the year: 99 - 1975, 00 - 1976, 01 - 1977. This was a short-lived practise, and from late 1977 the eight digit stamped serial number that is used today replaced it."

This doesn't cover the earlier instruments. I'm pretty sure this axe has a 6 digit serial, stamped in the wood. There's no decal of any sort. I read somewhere else that those with the 6-digit were either a 73 or 74.

Maybe it's a coincidence, but I assumed that because it didn't conform to the above SN schemes that the first two digits "73" was the year.

Can anyone enlighten me? I'll have to wait until I get home to actually write the numbers down.

Thansk
 
Check the neck & make all the positions on the electronics work. It has a choke on it and they are hard to find, although most people do not like the choke position on the varitone.

Great info here-

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The crack is an easy repair. If the neck, frets & electronics are in good order, its worth about $600 - $800 Average

If the neck, frets or electronics need work than its worth $400 - $600 depending on how bad things are.

Check the truss rod to see if it moves as well.
 
Ok here is the serial

Six digits. 173339

thx

OK guys:

So I screwed up before thinking that the first two digits were "73"... It's a stamp in the wood and it's not easy to read.

According to my research, and [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] the ripper I have is:

1. Definitely made between 1973 and 1976 due to the shape of the pickup cavities
2. Doesn't have the "99" "00" "01" Date or Model Stamp, Nor does it have the 8-digit serial "badge" that I've read about.
3. Actually has a tortoise shell PG - but it's so dark and faded it nearly looks black. You have to look at it in light to see it.

Based on these facts it appears that it's an earlier model 1973-1974.

I just read an article about using the pot date codes to identify when they were made - that could narrow it down. Odds are though that it is a 1974 due to the large volume of gloss maple rippers made that year.

Anyone else have any other info?
 
The Ripper is plenty versatile using the Varitone, although at least one of the positions is rather worthless because it cuts out all the bottom. I used mine for eight years in soul, disco, funk, rock & prog bands and it fit the bill in each one. The neck is comfortable and although the body is rather big, It's comfortable to play. Given that it needs work, $600 is about right.
 
Thats a nasty crack from body end to control cavity. I can see where wood no longer lines up at control cavity edge. Though that doesnt weaken bass in important area where string tension has an effect, It still worries me & Id want to give the rest of the bass a close exam for possible structural issues. If I got it Id replace all corroded parts esp electronics. Prob $400-$500 as fair price if it has no structural issues and that bad crack can be repaired in the body that extends to control cavity. Yup thats a 73/74 One of the guys that helped me learn to play bass and do setups back then had one. Very nice bass imo.