There is also a point worth remembering - all speakers are not the same sensitivity. Other than fart-out issues if you don't use the (built in) crossover and a patch cable to drop the troublesome ~70 hz X-Max area when exceeding lower volumes (or send it to a sub if you have money and space for that), a TNT130 (yes, a whopping 130 Watts max, and closer to 100 "clean" or not distorting much) can get fairly loud. The speaker is ~98 dB 1W/1m (per winISD - somewhat more was claimed in old datasheets.) If my memory is correct, you'd need 260 watts to get the same volume from a 95 dB speaker, 520 from a 92 dB speaker, and 1040 from an 89 dB speaker. And yes, Virginia, they do sell speakers with sensitivities as low as 89 dB 1W/1m. The ultimate point is Acoustic watts into the room - how many electrical watts you burn to do that may vary quite a bit.
If you happen to end up with a 130, two very minor, quick, cheap mods will help further - line the unlined box, and extend the port slightly for a better tuning of the box. Some of the later models in the line may already be more optimized. Also, always check the specs - the model name and power may not match (a TNT115 is more power and a lot newer than a TNT130, for instance) and CL sellers will often misquote the power input (from the wall) rating as the amp power, making a 230W amp into a 400W amp (they claim) - web research is your friend here.
If you happen to end up with a 130, two very minor, quick, cheap mods will help further - line the unlined box, and extend the port slightly for a better tuning of the box. Some of the later models in the line may already be more optimized. Also, always check the specs - the model name and power may not match (a TNT115 is more power and a lot newer than a TNT130, for instance) and CL sellers will often misquote the power input (from the wall) rating as the amp power, making a 230W amp into a 400W amp (they claim) - web research is your friend here.
