Circle K's tend to be rather flexible, so tension will be about the same, but the string flexibility may be different enough to necessitate a larger gauge.
For example, if the strings you play now are very inflexible as compared to the Circle K's, even if transitioning to strings of the same tension, you may find that they feel (but don't sound) more loose than your current strings. As a result, you'll need to go up a gauge or so with the Circle K's.
I haven't touched Dean Markeley strings in years, and I certainly wasn't aware of such intricacies at the time, so I can't compare them for you to give you a more specific answer. I can tell you, though, that many players order CK's at the same tension they normally play, but find them to be a bit "loose" and then up the gauge on the next order.
Do you have a picture of how strings fit into your bridge? I know Lightwave basses have an interesting setup that may not allow for modification or tapered string benefits.
Hi, thanks for the info.
I don't find the strings overly loose; the upper three are perhaps too tight, because I have a number of wrist problems. The E string is about right. The B is much too wobbly/flabby (although it sounds nice through my fearful cab), to the point where the actuation for fingerstyle is changing to a noticable degree. While I accept this is probably a characteristic of a B string on a long scale bass (with the exception of overly stiff strings), I don't want this to carry into my other strings, which my main concern about going balanced, as the other strings are relatively lower in tension.
I'm a terrible photographer and don't have access to a camera right now, but luckily the internet has provided me with some images.
I'm not OVERLY sure if these are the stock gauge. To me, it looks like there's a heap of room, but I'm not full bottle on strings and how the mechanism work (though logic stands that the movement of the string is the least towards the bridge/head). I'll post a pic of my bass when I wake up. When I asked Chris about the restring procedure, he said it's the same as your average bass
I expect some more info from Chris when the time is right in his part of the globe.
Thanks.
EDIT:: Chris has recommended that I stick with the 130s. He mentions that tapered strings are usually full daimeter where the doodad is, so there's mechanical problems.
Skip has mentioned that although he's spoken with lightwave engineers at NAMM, he can't make a specific recommendation.
I've decided I will buy the 130 set and a single 136 string. Although balanced is what I am looking for, I'm more than willing to make a compromise for higher tension down on the lower strings.
EDIT::: Order placed. It may have been wiser to go for the 136 set and a single 130. But we'll just see how it goes. Money will flow eventually.