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Cleaning Flatwounds
- Thread starter ThomasTronics
- Start date
The heck with that mess, I toss them in the washer using fabric softer on the permanent press setting, then tumble dry. That way they come out springtime fresh, soft to the touch, and best yet, no wrinkles.
If the body or neck finish is lacquer be careful.
Turnaround beat me to it... Like this.
Last edited:
Turnaround
Commercial User
You loosen them then lift the coil off the post. No need to completely unwind, thus eliminating breakage.
It could be more than just "dirty" stings.
Everyone's chemistry is different, and it may just be the way the cobalt reacts to your chemistry.
Given that, to clean them, I'd soak them overnight (or longer) in denatured alcohol.
I use a 1" pvc tube just for this purpose.
In an extreme case - you could boil them. I don't know how the cobalt would react, (I've never had the rusting issue some have mentioned with a certain brand of cobalt flats) but I can tell you in my early days, when things were tight, I boiled strings regularly and never had an issue. (other than faded silks).
Whichever method you choose, be careful with the Cobalt Flats when restringing them; they are the one string prone to breaking (at the post).
You may also want to look into cleaning your fingerboard.
Everyone's chemistry is different, and it may just be the way the cobalt reacts to your chemistry.
Given that, to clean them, I'd soak them overnight (or longer) in denatured alcohol.
I use a 1" pvc tube just for this purpose.
In an extreme case - you could boil them. I don't know how the cobalt would react, (I've never had the rusting issue some have mentioned with a certain brand of cobalt flats) but I can tell you in my early days, when things were tight, I boiled strings regularly and never had an issue. (other than faded silks).
Whichever method you choose, be careful with the Cobalt Flats when restringing them; they are the one string prone to breaking (at the post).
You may also want to look into cleaning your fingerboard.
They just smell like dirty pants from years of sweat and playing with dirty hands.
I went to the store and got some isopropyl alcohol and I'm going to take the strings off the tuning peg (still currled) and give them a good wipe down.
Not looking for boiling and more zing, i just want non-stink strings
When I clean my flats, whether EB Cobalts or TI's, I place a gallon-sized ziploc bag between the strings and fretboard, then i take an alcohol-dampened piece of absorbent cloth and run it along each string with a bit of pressure, making sure to keep the plastic between the string and board as I move it back and forth along the scale.
I move the cloth as necessary to keep a clean section for each string. My strings never get dirty, so it's more of a ritualistic and esoteric exercise for the flat wound equipped basses which I play more than once in a blue moon.
I also use the same method to oil or clean fretboard in reverse. I isolate the strings from the oil with a different ziploc bag. I use food-grade cutting board mineral oil for rosewood and ebony, and alcohol for maple followed by a bit of Guitar polish on the maple.
I move the cloth as necessary to keep a clean section for each string. My strings never get dirty, so it's more of a ritualistic and esoteric exercise for the flat wound equipped basses which I play more than once in a blue moon.
I also use the same method to oil or clean fretboard in reverse. I isolate the strings from the oil with a different ziploc bag. I use food-grade cutting board mineral oil for rosewood and ebony, and alcohol for maple followed by a bit of Guitar polish on the maple.
I've been playing since 1979. I've never smelled my strings, I've changed rounds when they feel dead, and have left flats on forever. I didn't know this was a "thing"!
For several years now I've used the Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes on my flats. It's amazing the smoodge they come away with after just one gig. No doubt isopropyl alcohol will do just as well at about 1/10 the price, but these are very handy in their individual packets to carry in the gig bag.
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Blech. I dislike the smell of 3-in-1 oil; find it very petrochemical/toxic, and it doesn't wash out of the skin easily. I wouldn't want it anywhere near my strings. 'Just my opinion, of course.
Back to our discussion....
Wash your hands before you play. Dirty hands can cause a gunky fretboard, as well.
Obtain a one gallon can of acetone (Walmart). Take the strings off the bass, put them ball-end first in the acetone getting all you can get “in” the liquid, soak for at least 10 minutes, but a 1/2 hour is better. Pull them out, make sure not to get acetone on anything, get them dry (swinging them around in a vertical plane circle OUTDOORS about 30 seconds works, but don’t get acetone on anything).
Works miracles in restoring brightness to rounds, too. I’ve been doing this about 15 years.
Acetone = ace tone….
Works miracles in restoring brightness to rounds, too. I’ve been doing this about 15 years.
Acetone = ace tone….
This thread reminds me of another quite a while back that asked the question of whether people immediately replace the strings after they buy a bass, particularly used/pre-owned basses. This thread only serves to make my answer more firm.
Also, I just had to go wash my hands again after reading this thread.
Also, I just had to go wash my hands again after reading this thread.
Here's another idea:
Take the strings completely off the bass. Soak them for 72 hours in hydrochloric acid. Be sure to do this outside with plenty of ventilation. Once the 72 hours are complete, the bass strings should be sufficiently ruined, forcing you to go buy a new set.
Take the strings completely off the bass. Soak them for 72 hours in hydrochloric acid. Be sure to do this outside with plenty of ventilation. Once the 72 hours are complete, the bass strings should be sufficiently ruined, forcing you to go buy a new set.
The only distilled vinegar I can find is see-through. Would that and white food colouring do it?
