• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Clevinger EUB megathread

Hi gang,
It looks like some of you could possibly help me here:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/clevinger-concerto-info-1003992/
Please post in the thread to keep it live and help out anyone else.
Martin Clevinger appears M.I.A.. :hmm:

Thanks

PB,
Mr. PC let me know in another thread that Martin has health issues, so it's doubtful that you're going to be able to get in touch with him. Hopefully, someone here will be able to help out. Martin built so many different models that the variations are endless. He also worked with other Luthiers, like Robert Lee who did some of the key construction on his instruments. So there were other individuals involved in building the basses.

I have a 1983 Clevenger Keyhole Bass that was updated to a Diamond Sonance Pickup by Martin. The volume of the center transducer (pizzicato) has dropped to half of it's original volume. If anyone out there with a Diamond Sonance Clevenger been able to address this problem I'd appreciate a P.M.

Ric
 
Ric, could that center pu be similar to the Latin/Baby Bass pu system that Azola was offering on some models? Very similar to the pu Ampeg put on the original Baby Bass and some of the fretless bass guitars they made in the '60's.

I've got a feeling that those pickups Clevenger and Azola used were military surplus, since Clevenger and other luthiers (Turner, Alembic, ect) of the era were known to buy parts and materials from suppliers who specialized in military surplus materials.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ric Vice
PB,
Mr. PC let me know in another thread that Martin has health issues, so it's doubtful that you're going to be able to get in touch with him. Hopefully, someone here will be able to help out. Martin built so many different models that the variations are endless. He also worked with other Luthiers, like Robert Lee who did some of the key construction on his instruments. So there were other individuals involved in building the basses.
I hope Mr. Clevinger recovers and returns to making what seems to be, physically at least, a very fine instrument.
While I am aware that he experimented with many pickup setups (recently reread the write-up on Clevinger's pickup experiments in American Basses), the setup mine has with the Holosonic bridge, internal ambient mic/pickup and three knob configuration seems like a very common setup on his basses.
Given that, I was hoping someone could give me definitive info on what these controls were doing. :hmm:
I've got a feeling that those pickups Clevenger and Azola used were military surplus, since Clevenger and other luthiers (Turner, Alembic, ect) of the era were known to buy parts and materials from suppliers who specialized in military surplus materials.
I read in another forum that the flight cases Clevinger offers are formerly S.C.U.D. missile cases. :cool:
 
Ric, could that center pu be similar to the Latin/Baby Bass pu system that Azola was offering on some models? Very similar to the pu Ampeg put on the original Baby Bass and some of the fretless bass guitars they made in the '60's.

Mr. PC
From reading this thread and the Clevenger Mega Thread, it's beginning to sound like Martin was more of a conceptualist, who was able outsource his pickups, and woodworking to other manufactures and luthiers, that were responsible for the actual instrument builds. Once he had built a prototype. People like Robert Lee, Michael Bennet, Steve Azola, and Robert McGlish actually produced either the electronics, or the bodies of his his instruments. Since I'm pretty sure that Robert Lee built my bass, I'm going to email him to see if he can help me with the Diamond Sonance repairs. I'll let you know what develops.




I've got a feeling that those pickups Clevenger and Azola used were military surplus, since Clevenger and other luthiers (Turner, Alembic, ect) of the era were known to buy parts and materials from suppliers who specialized in military surplus materials.
 
Here are a couple of photos of mine. Martin made this bass entirely to my spec back in '02. It's an Opus body with his standard piezo saddle sensors + a one-off single coil (which is really necessary for me, playing at kind of high volumes and pretty heavy handed) that I believe he said he had someone from the fender custom shop make...don't ask how much extra that was. I also told him I liked the old rubber bridge guard, so he put one on. It's got two output jacks - you can blend the pickups (I usually use the mag pickup 100% and the bridge about 20%) through one output or run each to a different amp. It's still a great sounding axe, with a few quirks - the mag pickup being single coil, I need to play it on the right axis from the amp to keep the hum down, and I definitely need to restring it pretty soon.

Link Removed
Invalid Link Removed

Here's vid with audio -

 
Last edited:
Since the question was coming up in a different thread that was only related to strings I thought it might be a good idea to post some pictures of my modification on (what I think is) a Clevinger keyhole EUB. I got it used, it was converted from a four string to a five string (four string grooves still at the bridge). I didn’t like the pickup solution as I got it from the previous owner, so I changed a lot.

The bridge was screwed to the top because there was no raised saddle and without it the bridge would have fallen towards the fingerboard due to extremely different string angles at the bridge.
I placed some angled wooden posts screwed into the original holes to angle the bridge top lower to half the string angle at the bridge in between post and bridge are two pickups, piezo disks cut into shape and sandwiched into hard wood. I also made a double piezo buffer for the two pickups (not enough room for a HPFpre because of the battery and output jack) instead of the passive BG electronics and removed the post for the endpin to have a straight one (much better for the bow).

Then I replaced the endpin rubber with a big one for a walking stick ore something similar that had a lot of rubber below the shaft and cut it so that the there is full contact with the floor when I hold the instrument. That brings the bass back into the right place if I move a bit.

The rubber foam (originally made for a bicycle) at the body support was there before, but a bit old and I made it a bit better so that it cannot turn around. I cut one spirally to fit the metal rod tightly and fixed the ends with tape and then put the second one over the spirally cut one. That way I have a really good contact with the fake bout and it won’t slip.

There is a second pickup, a German Bassbalsereit (now ANS or AMS, cannot remember currently, like a very thick Wilson K1), that is passive and ends in a balanced XLR connector.
The bridge hole is not tapered as it should be for the pickup, so I inserted some cardboard to better fit it in.
There is also a piece of rubber foam tube around the XLR connector, so I can stick it between body and underlength. It also damps the underlengths that way.

The fingerboard has a high curvature. It seems that a former owner wanted the bowing angle for each string to be like on a four string instrument, so a lot of wood was removed from the sides of the fingerboard. At the end of it there is almost no fingerboard height left. But that was not my idea (bad for pizz), I got it that way. Does not help with my 5-string DB, the bowing angles a smaller there (even though maxed out as much as possible).

But enough talking.
Here are some detail pics:
FEABB17F-FB3B-4481-BC7A-F1F135DD37B1.jpeg
E812B0CB-9595-43B5-9EE8-2D1BF0343421.jpeg
2049DE90-61BC-439D-A3DC-E914B1D8D1EB.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I'm a bit late to the party but thought I would share my story.
I'd always wanted a Clevinger but could never afford new and had pretty much forgotten all about them. Until about 6 months ago when I stumbled across the one on the left. It's beat up as you can see but the price was great and I figured, what the hell? I couldn't believe my luck.

Then, about a month ago, I saw ANOTHER one on my local CL. Better looking condition, had the bar AND the bag, too! Unfortunately, a previous owner removed the piezo pickups and they were lost. Also, I certainly didn't need it and still hadn't even gotten the 1st one set up properly yet. (But, there's a bar and a bag...) I decided to wait and after nearly a month I emailed the seller with an offer and we made a deal.

When I compared them I found what I'd assumed to be the serial #s on the underside of the stand's mounting plates. I was surprised that they were only 13 numbers apart. Not much of a stretch since they were both found in Chicagoland but cool, nonetheless.

But when I removed both attachment plates and saw the stamps on the bodies I found that they are actually sequential. (!) Seems kinda' unreal to me but here they are. Does anyone know what kind of tailpiece goes on the models with the plastic bridge? Thanks.
2clevs.JPG
 

Does anyone know what kind of tailpiece goes on the models with the plastic bridge? Thanks.View attachment 4605201
I have a keyhole shaped version.
Your left one has a raised saddle, the right one doesn’t. Neither has a tailpiece.
My one is similar to the right one, strings go directly through the body. To avoid underlength resonance I put a pipe shaped rubber foam piece (originally for a bike) between body and strings. The previous owner might have done something similar.
After having my Clevinger for some time and doing several modifications, the raised saddle might be better. My bridge was screwed to the body which I didn‘t liked. I screwed angled wood posts to the top so the bridge has the same string angle on both sides. If you don’t the bridge might fall. Less of a problem with the raised saddle. But even with the raised saddle I would put some damping material at the end of the underlengths.
 
I have a keyhole shaped version.
Your left one has a raised saddle, the right one doesn’t. Neither has a tailpiece.
My one is similar to the right one, strings go directly through the body. To avoid underlength resonance I put a pipe shaped rubber foam piece (originally for a bike) between body and strings. The previous owner might have done something similar.
After having my Clevinger for some time and doing several modifications, the raised saddle might be better. My bridge was screwed to the body which I didn‘t liked. I screwed angled wood posts to the top so the bridge has the same string angle on both sides. If you don’t the bridge might fall. Less of a problem with the raised saddle. But even with the raised saddle I would put some damping material at the end of the underlengths.

Thanks for the correction. I'll discuss the saddle issue with my luthier when I can.

The seller said he wrapped some cloth through the strings but, as you can see, there remains some sort of adhesive residue. He didn't know what was mounted there originally.
 
Thanks for the correction. I'll discuss the saddle issue with my luthier when I can.

The seller said he wrapped some cloth through the strings but, as you can see, there remains some sort of adhesive residue. He didn't know what was mounted there originally.
Make a photo from the side so we can see the string angle of the bridge of both.
For solid body instruments lighter strings and/or less bending across the bridge (higher saddle) might feel better and closer to an acoustic DB. But less bending on the bridge means less pressure of the string against the bridge and strings (mostly the lowest) can jump out of the bridge groove if hammered hard with finger or hand.

I have some photos of my (modified) Clevinger here on Talkbass, but I must find them first to give a link.
 
I just bought the Asleep At The Wheel Clevinger Keyhole bass from a wonderful TBer. I love this thing! It came in a beast of a hard case. I'm thinking of asking Martin if he still has any cases around.
Dylan,

I owned one for years, at the time they were the only option for a portable travel bass. I sold mine about 7 years ago. I have my original price list and brochure from when I bought it in 1980.