Yes, Cliff's prices are outstanding and so is his work.
Why did you choose Swamp Ash for the new fretted?
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Yes, Cliff's prices are outstanding and so is his work.
Why did you choose Swamp Ash for the new fretted?
I have a build coming up in a few months, and I'm wondering what experiences you've had with a few different body woods. So far, I was going with Walnut for the clarity and articulation, but now I'm thinking for trying for something a little lighter. Swamp Ash is a possibility, but I wanted something a little more out of the ordinary. What do you think of Spanish Cedar? What are its supposed tonal properties?
If you like walnut's clarity, you could always go with a walnut tone block and something lighter for the wings. My only hesitation with Spanish cedar is that I've heard it's very soft.
Spanish cedar is one of the two woods used in the Parallel Chamber. The other being Englemann (sp?) spruce. I would assume it's due to a natural resonance and tonality associated with lows and low mids. Englemann is used as the top of quite a few high-end acoustic guitars. It is known to have a nice bright resonance with ample mid and high-mids. I assume that balance is why Cliff chose those two as complimentary woods for the PC.
I love the Spanish Cedar neck and Engelmann Spruce top on my classical guitar, and I imagine that it sounds fantastic in the Parallel Chamber bass. I really want to order Cliff's Parallel Chamber bass in a 4-string, 32" scale. However, I would want to go with a denser top and back wood...possibly Maple or Macassar Ebony.
You may have to twist Cliff's arm. I inquired about different woods, and was told that Spanish Cedar and Engelmann = PC. I derived from our correspondence that Cliff wasn't too keen on anything else, and wished to stick by both his guns and his tradecraft.
I know PCs have been constructed from different wood combos in the past (based on The News and Featured Basses portions of Cliff's site). Also, TBer "bates" was selling his fretless PC 6-er not long ago, and if memory serves, that PC was walnut and ash.
I do not want to change the Spanish Cedar/Engelmann Spruce core woods for the Parallel Chamber. I want these woods for the core.
TapyTap said:I do not want to change the Spanish Cedar/Engelmann Spruce core woods for the Parallel Chamber. I want these woods for the core.
Sorry, I misread your post.
I love the Spanish Cedar core of my 5 string. It always gives the bass a mellow tone, yet some how a nice smooth growl.
I told Cliff to make my new fretless a 7 stringer, and asked about making the 6 string fretted bass maybe a 32 inch scale.
Does anyone on here have a 32 inch scale CB with a low B? If so, how do you like it?
-ScottM
I told Cliff to make my new fretless a 7 stringer, and asked about making the 6 string fretted bass maybe a 32 inch scale.
Does anyone on here have a 32 inch scale CB with a low B? If so, how do you like it?
-ScottM
Bumping myself as I received an answer from Hipshot and thought I'd share the info; from the horse's mouth:
"Thank you for your question about our Bass Tuners. All of our Bass Tuners now offer string posts that will accept a bass string of up to a .135" diameter. If this needs to be wider, the Builder can contact us and we will widen this slot to the needed diameter.
Hope this helps."
I'm enjoying my 32" scale 7 immensely.
Are you ordering these in the same batch? If not, you could always see if the fretless 7 suits you and just order a fretted 7 later. Saves you from ordering a fretted 7 later if you really like it.
spade2you said:
Very cool to hear you like your 32" scale. I've never played one before, so I am looking forward to it.
I'm ordering them both for the same batch that starts after this build that is about to start. Cliff has made a lot of changes with me, so I'll repost my final specs when I have them.
But with that said, a 32" 6 string fretted and a 7 string 35" fretless sounds like a lot of fun! Really looking forward to seeing what kind of Marble wood top he can find, and seeing this Tulipwood!
-ScottM
Tslicebass
Commercial User
Specs for the new custom
Tim Seisser Custom Shape 5 String Fretted Standard
Dimensions
Scale Length: 34
Neck Shape: Oval
Thickness at 1st: .810 (thin)
Width at nut: 1.875
String Spacing at Bridge: 19mm
Body Thickness: 1.525
Construction
Neck: Classic Maple
Fingerboard: Maple
Fingerboard Radius: 16"
Nut: Stabilized Ebony
Full Faced Top: No
Body Woods
Top: None
Core: Lightweight Ash
Back: None
Headstock Plate: Ash or Maple
Cavity Cover: Plastic
Hardware
Color: Chrome
Bridge: Hipshot style "A"
Tuners: Ultralites
Truss Rod: Two-way adjustable
Dunlop Strap locks
Output: 1/4" Face mount
Electronics
Pickups: Nordstrand Big Singles No exposed pole pieces
Passive
Controls: Volume, Balance, Tone
Standard Gig Bag
Notes
Ash or Maple wood playing ramp. Set to bridge pickup height. No radius.
Echo. One more photoshop favor from ya if you are game. I am working on a headstock design that looks a little more traditional for this bass. Can you straighten out the bass side strings side of this headstock.
Have it come to a point at the end of the headstock and then keep the trebile side strings shape the same... sort of like this headstock.
Tim Seisser Custom Shape 5 String Fretted Standard
Dimensions
Scale Length: 34
Neck Shape: Oval
Thickness at 1st: .810 (thin)
Width at nut: 1.875
String Spacing at Bridge: 19mm
Body Thickness: 1.525
Construction
Neck: Classic Maple
Fingerboard: Maple
Fingerboard Radius: 16"
Nut: Stabilized Ebony
Full Faced Top: No
Body Woods
Top: None
Core: Lightweight Ash
Back: None
Headstock Plate: Ash or Maple
Cavity Cover: Plastic
Hardware
Color: Chrome
Bridge: Hipshot style "A"
Tuners: Ultralites
Truss Rod: Two-way adjustable
Dunlop Strap locks
Output: 1/4" Face mount
Electronics
Pickups: Nordstrand Big Singles No exposed pole pieces
Passive
Controls: Volume, Balance, Tone
Standard Gig Bag
Notes
Ash or Maple wood playing ramp. Set to bridge pickup height. No radius.
Echo. One more photoshop favor from ya if you are game. I am working on a headstock design that looks a little more traditional for this bass. Can you straighten out the bass side strings side of this headstock.
Have it come to a point at the end of the headstock and then keep the trebile side strings shape the same... sort of like this headstock.
Far be it from me to assert an agenda, but I can't say that a 35" scale fretless is something I'd really recommend. If you don't like the .020 and tuning to E, that's basically it. Non-wound strings just sound weak and more like sitar than a fretless bass.
Sure, my approaches are pretty conservative, but I don't think I'd order the fanned 7 without knowing if I could handle my fretless 7. Granted, I don't have the dough to order 2 from Cliff at the same time, but 32" scale and/or 7 strings could be something you really dig, or not. Life is dull without taking risks, but sometimes patience/luck pays off. As happy as I am with the fretless 7, I'm extremely glad I didn't order it as an 8 string with one higher since I now have a very good idea of how it would have panned out. I also learned that getting the balance right with a 7 can be very challenging and Cliff and I will need to be smart about construction with regards to chambering and body woods.
I'd also agree. In my case, the fact that the overtones are different, even slightly, just really didn't sound quite "right" to me on a 35" fretless. Agreed, I grew up on a fretless Fender J back in the day, so take that into consideration, but 34" is my preferred electric fretless scale length.
I generally prefer 34" these days, but my more strict comments were specifically about fretless. I do have some 35" scale fretted basses and love them.
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