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Club Bordwell Part 3

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He he, well if you're ever over this way man, give me a shout.
I used to live up in Scotland, but I've been down in London now for almost a year. It's not a bad place bar the recent rioting which you probably saw on the TV...

If it'll help swing it, a Youngs Brewery Pub just opened about 5 mins walk from my front door :)

Really pleased the 32" has worked out so well.
Like I keep saying, one of these days, I'll be noising Cliff up for a 32" 6 string for sure!

Eude

I think I heard something recently, but I truly live under a rock.

Youngs became a favorite of mine a few years back when they were exporting a lot of their beers. Their chocolate stoute dominated sales in the US and now it's the only one we can get. If I ever make it out that way, I might be getting the biggest mug of London Ale a pub has. :D
 
Didn't quite get as much playing time on the bass before my weekend shifts hit me. Haven't quite had time to adjust things. Took it into the shop to get some straps for that, which made me realize I hadn't done that for the Rami 6 yet. :atoz:

Even though I could tell my basses weren't their cup o' tea, I think they all thought they looked well made and even a die-hard Fender person can't deny that Cliff's heel is nicely carved.

I think they were surprised with the weight. It's not a feather like my Ball 4, but quite reasonable.

I don't know Cliff's neck profile designation, but it's very comfortable. Between the 32" scale and 17mm spacing, it's not that different from playing a 6 string.

As with all Ball basses, the lower bout is very comfortable.

Haven't yet played it with a strap, but I anticipate it to be balanced.
 
I don't know if there's a right or wrong answer, just preferences and a little trial and error.

I agree with you. Gleaning form other people's experiences can sometimes help me shave off a bit of the error factor. :D

That being said, I might recommend a zero fret to allow you to play around with different string gauges and not have to worry about how well the strings fit in the nut.

I've have pondered the zero fret option; I can see why you would suggest it. One of these days, someone is going to invent a nut that is adjustable for each string. :cool:
 
Don't quite have time to get perfect pics, but these will do for now.

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For size comparison.

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Beautiful bass! Truly a work of art. The top is one of my favorites, from what i understand Douglas fir that figured is rare .Can anyone confirm this?
 
I've have pondered the zero fret option; I can see why you would suggest it. One of these days, someone is going to invent a nut that is adjustable for each string. :cool:

Both Alembic and Warwick have something of this nature. Lots of work for something a zero fret does in such a simple nature. :p

Beautiful bass! Truly a work of art. The top is one of my favorites, from what i understand Douglas fir that figured is rare .Can anyone confirm this?


I believe it's somewhat rare, but only in the sense that you don't see many guitars or basses with this wood. Hard to say if there isn't much of it out there or if it's simply not harvested.
 
WTH is that?? :confused:

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My Rami 6 has it. Not sure if Cliff has done this on more of his basses. Regardless, I like it so far and plan on doing this on fretted basses whenever possible.

Thanks. I didn't even notice this in the pictures you posted! Now I see it. It really does seem like it would be great for changing strings.

If the zero fret ever has to be repaired, it seems that a nut might be easier to replace. What did Cliff think about installing a zero fret on this bass?
 
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Trippy stuff.

Thanks. I didn't even notice this in the pictures you posted! Now I see it. It really does seem like it would be great for changing strings.

If the zero fret ever has to be repaired, it seems that a nut might be easier to replace. What did Cliff think about installing a zero fret on this bass?

Cliff seemed to really like the idea of installing it. Not that changing strings would be the only benefit, but having your open string sound like a fretted string is kinda nice from a consistency perspective. Theoretically, perhaps the action can be a tad lower because of the zero fret. I don't quite have the funds/space to A/B it to anything similar without the zero fret, but I'm very happy with it and plan on getting it on fretted basses whenever possible.

A nut would be much easier to replace than a zero fret. That's one disadvantage, but not sure how big of a deal this would be on a bass. With guitar, there would be bending to a lesser degree on the fret as well as zero fret, so more potential to wearing it out.
 
Cliff seemed to really like the idea of installing it. Not that changing strings would be the only benefit, but having your open string sound like a fretted string is kinda nice from a consistency perspective. Theoretically, perhaps the action can be a tad lower because of the zero fret. I don't quite have the funds/space to A/B it to anything similar without the zero fret, but I'm very happy with it and plan on getting it on fretted basses whenever possible.

That's cool that Cliff seems to like it. The tonal consistency between open and fretted strings is certainly an advantage. Low action is also a good thing in my book, and I would think this could only help in matters of improved intonation when fretting.


A nut would be much easier to replace than a zero fret. That's one disadvantage, but not sure how big of a deal this would be on a bass. With guitar, there would be bending to a lesser degree on the fret as well as zero fret, so more potential to wearing it out.

I am wanting to go with stainless steel frets as it is...perhaps this would be an advantage for the longevity of a zero fret?

Hmm...come to think of it, did you ever consider the possibility of having a metal nut rather than the zero fret?

One more thing that I keep wondering about this approach:

Since there is no groove for the string to sit in on the zero fret to make it stationary, like there would be in a nut, when playing an open string, do you notice any kind of movement of the string over the zero fret?:eyebrow:
 
That's cool that Cliff seems to like it. The tonal consistency between open and fretted strings is certainly an advantage. Low action is also a good thing in my book, and I would think this could only help in matters of improved intonation when fretting.

Yep. I'm sure folks could argue the action and/or intonnation thing much like any other debate, but they can't ignore that the 5th fret and open string sound much closer. Seemed to add a more defined sound to the low B, IMO.


I am wanting to go with stainless steel frets as it is...perhaps this would be an advantage for the longevity of a zero fret?

Perhaps. I'd consider something like that because I'm a sucker for anything that's stronger or more stable. I suspect that I probably wouldn't notice a huge difference between refrets since I tend to cycle through gear at a point that makes wear seem much slower. That being said, the Dymondwood fingerboard on my Conklin fretless has been played a lot and you'd need a magnifying class to see any marks on the near-invincible fingerboard.

Hmm...come to think of it, did you ever consider the possibility of having a metal nut rather than the zero fret?

Other than adjustable units like Warwick, I see them sounding brighter in the open position, but more difficult to replace and work on. Obviously more durable than basic plastic, but probably not as quick to get replaced and you seem to lose the ability of having something easily carved/fixed.

One more thing that I keep wondering about this approach:

Since there is no groove for the string to sit in on the zero fret to make it stationary, like there would be in a nut, when playing an open string, do you notice any kind of movement of the string over the zero fret?:eyebrow:

There's still a nut behind the zero fret on mine. There's no appreciable movement on mine. I know Bee basses used to have a zero fret and no nut at all and those users didn't seem to complain. I don't know if I could be convinced to do that, but it appeared to work.
 
Both Alembic and Warwick have something of this nature. Lots of work for something a zero fret does in such a simple nature. :p
I don't think that's the real issue. I'd think the issue would be differing widths of the slot. Not string height at the first fret.

IME, generally speaking string height at the first fret should be the same no matter what gauge strings you use.

The problem with changing gauges with a nut is you have to file the nut out for larger strings (wider slot, but leave the bottom alone), but then if you go (back) to smaller gauge, you get nut buzz from the string vibrating in a slot "too wide". You do have a little slop to play with as long as there's enough down-force on the string and the slot bottom is rounded, but it is still possible to get noise if you dig in on a string and the gap is big enough.

Alembic, Warwick, and possibly others simply have adjustable heights. That wouldn't solve this problem.
 
Nope. He's talking about differing widths of the slot. Not string height at the first fret.

Generally speaking string height at the first fret should be the same no matter what gauge strings you use.

The problem with changing gauges with a nut is you have to file the nut out for larger strings (wider slot, but leave the bottom alone), but then if you go (back) to smaller gauge, you get nut buzz from the string vibrating in a slot "too wide". You do have a little slop to play with as long as there's enough down-force on the string and the slot bottom is rounded, but it is still possible to get noise if you dig in on a string and the gap is big enough.

Alembic, Warwick, and possibly others simply have adjustable heights. That wouldn't solve this problem.

Gotcha.
 
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