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Club Fbass (Part 10!)

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#181
Coming up on a year since I took delivery of my BNF5-fretted, and still loving every minute!

I have a question: has anyone encountered a situation where your bass actually rattles the bridge to the point where the threads turn on their own and the saddles fall? I believe because I ordered this bass so lightweight that it resonates so much that this is actually happening :eek: I've tried two different Hipshot bridges on it -- the aluminum one it came with, and a newer brass one I ordered for it.

Anyway, I was thinking of putting some thread-tightener on it (that blue stuff you sometimes see on screws). This was recommended to me by Best Bass Gear, which is where I got the newer bridge, but I wanted to see if anyone else experienced the same symptom, and did the use the same solution if so?

Thanks! Here's a pic, since I haven't uploaded one in a while...sorry for the mediocre quality.
 

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#183
Tom7 said:
Ah, I'm glad to learn this back story. I have to admit I was silently quite worried about the pickup placement decision. I think the tone of my BN6 is quite perfect, and I thought you were messing with that, not knowing George already had done the R&D on it.

I'd LOVE to play your bass; I'm so curious about it.
Click to expand...

Tom, the placement worked beautifully for me too. I liked the original and the frequency spectrum it brought out, but the 60s took the tone to a bigger and fatter overall sound, with D and G filling out beautifully for slap or soloing. They are both great and according to taste you have either to cover what you would need in a BN6, but for me (so far there were 3 that had this configuration when we did the testing) this is what I would order if I played a 6. Just a bit more "Jazz Bass" ish with still enough definition. But thats my bias.
I was excited when I left the shop.

It would be interesting to hear an ebony or rosewood board with it next.
 
#184
Aram said:
Coming up on a year since I took delivery of my BNF5-fretted, and still loving every minute!

I have a question: has anyone encountered a situation where your bass actually rattles the bridge to the point where the threads turn on their own and the saddles fall? I believe because I ordered this bass so lightweight that it resonates so much that this is actually happening :eek: I've tried two different Hipshot bridges on it -- the aluminum one it came with, and a newer brass one I ordered for it.

Anyway, I was thinking of putting some thread-tightener on it (that blue stuff you sometimes see on screws). This was recommended to me by Best Bass Gear, which is where I got the newer bridge, but I wanted to see if anyone else experienced the same symptom, and did the use the same solution if so?

This is a common occurrance with most threaded metal saddles...any manufacturer. A non permanent thread locker or lacquer (nail polish) can be used, lightly applied to each height adjusting screw then re-installed in the saddle. Set the string height and allow the saddles to cure. As both are non-permanent, the set screws can be released with slightly more turning pressure than normal.
Click to expand...
 
#185
YCBass said:
Here's Miko's super BN5

Ash body in Brownburst Satin with no pore fill
Asian Ebony fingerboard with matching ramp
Black Diamond strings that he sent to George

e740c804.jpg

d09193ca.jpg


5ae62726.jpg

200dd40e.jpg


Unfortunately I don't have a pic of Miko with his own bass... I took some using his phone so he has them.
Click to expand...




34" scale, small frets, slightly slimmer neck profile, Black Diamond strings (?) that can go right down on top of the frets without buzz.....yes, talk about Ferrari. The workmanship and fretwork coming from the shop is stellar IMO.

For some who may be interested, and I dont know if anyone has mentioned it yet but there was a VF6 ash/maple there too that was very cool to play ( first for me). I dont play 6s, and I really cant, but all these new 6s got my juices going.
 
#187
George Furlanet said:
This is a common occurrance with most threaded metal saddles...any manufacturer. A non permanent thread locker or lacquer (nail polish) can be used, lightly applied to each height adjusting screw then re-installed in the saddle. Set the string height and allow the saddles to cure. As both are non-permanent, the set screws can be released with slightly more turning pressure than normal.
Click to expand...

Thank you, sir! I'll try a small amount of the thread locker I picked up yesterday and hopefully I'll be good to go. :bassist:
 
#188
George Furlanet said:
Aram said:
Coming up on a year since I took delivery of my BNF5-fretted, and still loving every minute!

I have a question: has anyone encountered a situation where your bass actually rattles the bridge to the point where the threads turn on their own and the saddles fall? I believe because I ordered this bass so lightweight that it resonates so much that this is actually happening :eek: I've tried two different Hipshot bridges on it -- the aluminum one it came with, and a newer brass one I ordered for it.

Anyway, I was thinking of putting some thread-tightener on it (that blue stuff you sometimes see on screws). This was recommended to me by Best Bass Gear, which is where I got the newer bridge, but I wanted to see if anyone else experienced the same symptom, and did the use the same solution if so?
Click to expand...

This is a common occurrance with most threaded metal saddles...any manufacturer. A non permanent thread locker or lacquer (nail polish) can be used, lightly applied to each height adjusting screw then re-installed in the saddle. Set the string height and allow the saddles to cure. As both are non-permanent, the set screws can be released with slightly more turning pressure than normal.
Click to expand...
+1

This is what I've used in the past... it's easy to find, inexpensive, and works extremely well...

Invalid Link Removed

"...designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools..."

t_lkr_blue.png
 
#190
Aram said:
Thank you, sir! I'll try a small amount of the thread locker I picked up yesterday and hopefully I'll be good to go. :bassist:
Click to expand...
Just make sure it's non-permanent (removable) as George says. That's important. There are thread lockers out there that are designed to be as permanent as possible, and you don't want those. You may find yourself replacing the bridge saddle for stripping out the allen screw trying to adjust it at some point.
 
#191
Vic said:
Just make sure it's non-permanent (removable) as George says. That's important. There are thread lockers out there that are designed to be as permanent as possible, and you don't want those. You may find yourself replacing the bridge saddle for stripping out the allen screw trying to adjust it at some point.
Click to expand...

Thanks Vic -- I did look for LocTite, but neither of the hardware stores I went to had it. I ended up with a couple of off-brands, but both do say "removable" / "remove with ordinary tools", and they don't mention anything about permanent locking.

Fingers crossed!
 
#192
Aram said:
Thanks Vic -- I did look for LocTite, but neither of the hardware stores I went to had it. I ended up with a couple of off-brands, but both do say "removable" / "remove with ordinary tools", and they don't mention anything about permanent locking.

Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...
Wow... loctite hard to find... that's a new one on me, but yeah, as long as they say that you should be perfectly safe.
 
#196
George Furlanet said:
Nice photo!!!!
The tone knob should work all the time, unless someone has changed the circuit. Is the second control a pickup blend?
Click to expand...

Thank you, Mr. Furlanetto. Thanks a lot for your masterpieces! :)
I've got 2 volume knobs, bridge one has got push/pull (single/humbucker), tone knob (passive/active) that works when the bridge pickup is off and neck one is on plus EQ. That's all. It would be great if you could help me about this configuration. Bass is made in 2001, if I'm not mistaken in January.
Thanks,
Oleg.
 
#197
olegsulimov said:
Thank you, Mr. Furlanetto. Thanks a lot for your masterpieces! :)
I've got 2 volume knobs, bridge one has got push/pull (single/humbucker), tone knob (passive/active) that works when the bridge pickup is off and neck one is on plus EQ. That's all. It would be great if you could help me about this configuration. Bass is made in 2001, if I'm not mistaken in January.
Thanks,
Oleg.
Click to expand...

Hi Oleg
send me several, as clear as possible, photos of the internal wiring, closeups, (use macro setting on the camera). If not possible, take it to a qualified repair person to check out. have them contact me if necessary
 
#198
Hi all, I have been lurking on this thread for a while, and was wondering if anyone (particularly George or Marcel) knows if there has been a general consistancy in the depth of the neck profile on the BN5 or the VF5?

I hear people describe them as "thin and fast" and some describe them as having a fuller "c" type profile. I have played a few that seemed to be comfortably in the middle.

I think I read somewhere that they used to be thinner but have gone to a fuller profile for depth of tone? I have a really hard time playing 5's that have "thin and fast" necks as a doubler. Cramp city.

Thanks for all the great info, all. Hope to join you someday soon. :)
 
#199
basses55 said:
Tom, the placement worked beautifully for me too. I liked the original and the frequency spectrum it brought out, but the 60s took the tone to a bigger and fatter overall sound, with D and G filling out beautifully for slap or soloing. They are both great and according to taste you have either to cover what you would need in a BN6, but for me (so far there were 3 that had this configuration when we did the testing) this is what I would order if I played a 6. Just a bit more "Jazz Bass" ish with still enough definition. But thats my bias.
I was excited when I left the shop.

It would be interesting to hear an ebony or rosewood board with it next.
Click to expand...
Oh boy. I did NOT need to read that. Oh boy.

I have a strong preference for 6 string basses. Just the thought that it might be possible for me to get from a 6er what I use my BN5, VF5 and Alleva Coppolo for... wow.

Good thing my wife is British. If she were from, say, New Orleans she'd probably get a voodoo doll of you. Beware of any random pains in the near future.
 
#200
George Furlanet said:
This is a common occurrance with most threaded metal saddles...any manufacturer. A non permanent thread locker or lacquer (nail polish) can be used, lightly applied to each height adjusting screw then re-installed in the saddle. Set the string height and allow the saddles to cure. As both are non-permanent, the set screws can be released with slightly more turning pressure than normal.
Click to expand...
Wow. I wish I had collected all the nuggets like this that get dropped in these Fbass forums for future reference. Marcel, things like this might make for a great FAQ for Fbass owners.
 
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