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It's the same neoprene foam that Fender uses for pickups. Invalid Link Removed
I just got my JV back from having a PLEK. I was never quite able to get the neck as straight as I wanted (unlike on my P-Classic), and I thought this might be a reasonably low-cost way to attain it. Well, attain it they did. There was a little hump in the middle of the FB caused by a twist in the wood (damn natural materials 
) and the machine sorted it right out.
Before, I was able to eliminate buzz at .015 relief. Now it came back flawless at .007-008, which is right in the range I expect it to be capable of. In short, it plays like my old Sadowsky, which I thought was a cut above in the neck and fret work. I feel the flatness of the radius even more so now, as well. Recommended, if you're on the hunt for perfection.
Props to 13th Street Guitars in Huntington Beach.
) and the machine sorted it right out.Before, I was able to eliminate buzz at .015 relief. Now it came back flawless at .007-008, which is right in the range I expect it to be capable of. In short, it plays like my old Sadowsky, which I thought was a cut above in the neck and fret work. I feel the flatness of the radius even more so now, as well. Recommended, if you're on the hunt for perfection.
Props to 13th Street Guitars in Huntington Beach.
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I got my Jazz-V PLEK'd; made a huge difference.I just got my JV back from having a PLEK. I was never quite able to get the neck as straight as I wanted (unlike on my P-Classic), and I thought this might be a reasonably low-cost way to attain it. Well, attain it they did. There was a little hump in the middle of the FB caused by a twist in the wood (damn natural materials
Before, I was able to eliminate buzz at .015 relief. Now it came back flawless at .007-008, which is right in the range I expect it to be capable of. In short, it plays like my old Sadowsky, which I thought was a cut above in the neck and fret work. I feel the flatness of the radius even more so now, as well. Recommended, if you're on the hunt for perfection.
Props to 13th Street Guitars in Huntington Beach.
I just got my JV back from having a PLEK. I was never quite able to get the neck as straight as I wanted (unlike on my P-Classic), and I thought this might be a reasonably low-cost way to attain it. Well, attain it they did. There was a little hump in the middle of the FB caused by a twist in the wood (damn natural materials
Before, I was able to eliminate buzz at .015 relief. Now it came back flawless at .007-008, which is right in the range I expect it to be capable of. In short, it plays like my old Sadowsky, which I thought was a cut above in the neck and fret work. I feel the flatness of the radius even more so now, as well. Recommended, if you're on the hunt for perfection.
Props to 13th Street Guitars in Huntington Beach.
I had the exact same issue and took it to the same place. I don't play with low action but there were definitely some buzzes from the same hump/twist type of thing. Plays MUCH better now. Although some of the frets are kind of funny now as some are much lower than others. Probably removing them and leveling the board itself and reinstalling new frets would be the ideal fix but obviously more costly. If it gets to the point it needs a refret that will be the thing to do.
They said that I might notice the unevenness of the frets now, but I can't really notice it, so that's a good thing.
Can’t even begin to verbalize how great these two instruments are. PV with flats. JV with rounds.
Thanks. They sound better than they look.
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As much as I love my Sadowski JJ5, I am tempted my the Moollin passive J5
I’d love to get my hands on a PV. I’ve got a JV and it’s a fantastic axe.
The PV is SO good. Not sure why they haven’t caught on.
The best PV and JV are made by YJ/Moollon, IMHO.
Have owned over 50 Sadowsky’s over the years. Was always trying to make em sound like a Moollon. Love Roger and Sadowsky’s. Everyone should own one. But I ALWAYS reach for the Moollon’s first and 95% of the time it’s the right choice.
roger in my opinion makes the best active fender clone, though a majority of the time a passive bass just sounds “right”. That being said a PJ 5 from Sadowsky is on my dream list.
Hey Moollon fam!
I just saw Andi's FB post about pickguards and it got me thinking about adding a second color option to my order. I've got a vintage charcoal frost P-Classic with a tort guard on order, but would love to see if anyone has the same color with a different color guard. Thanks!
I just saw Andi's FB post about pickguards and it got me thinking about adding a second color option to my order. I've got a vintage charcoal frost P-Classic with a tort guard on order, but would love to see if anyone has the same color with a different color guard. Thanks!
My 2 cents…load up on any colors you think you might desire when you order your bass. I believe they are $45/50 (around there) a pop which is extremely reasonable. And you don’t have to pay shipping. But if you order it after the fact shipping on a $45/50 guard was (I believe) around $45. Andi can certainly clarify the numbers.
Ok. To your question, mint green and white would look sharp with Charcoal Frost, IMHO.
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I'm not on Facebook (nor will I ever be). Could any force for good do a quick copy-paste?
Time to talk about guards, since we get similar questions and requests quite regularly, and there still is a good bit of confusion regarding what is available for each model.
• The P-Classic IV and P-Classic V have all four 3-ply guard options, as shown below: Tortoise, black, white, and mint.
• The J-Classic IV is available with tortoise, white, and mint.
• The J-Classic V is available with tortoise or mint.
• The 1951/1956 P-Classic IV is available with 1-ply parchment, 1-ply black, or 3-ply tortoise. We unfortunately cannot obtain gold anodized amoeba guards for these two models.
• We do not fabricate our own gold anodized guards for the P-Classic IV, and rather purchase 1957-spec reproductions with a 10-hole pattern (+$85 to the cost of the order). Note they are not available for other Moollon bass models.
• To state the apparently not-so-obvious, the 13-hole pattern of our 1960 Precision bass tracing is not the same as the aftermarket 1957-spec 10-hole pattern. Some folks don't mind an "emmental body" and ask to drill for both, while most (us included) would rather have probably one or the other.
• The "on hiatus for new orders" Chambered P-Classic has never had a pickguard option because of both the F-hole and Telecaster/Esquire circuit control plate.
• As anodizing of the aluminum guard is done after cutting + they are aftermarket pieces we purchase separately, they cannot be ground for truss access hole in the shop without looking like a mess. Ergo, truss rod access option with notched pickguard can only be done if the guard is a 3-ply piece.
• The 3-ply mint material is comparatively tame in hue (no hint of Kermit the frog/green tea ice cream) and will mellow with time and exposure.
• We've yet to find a perfect aftermarket match for our guards and exact screw hole positions. As mentioned in a thread not long ago, the tracings were made from vintage pieces that had already shrunk quite a bit. We feel dabbling in the aftermarket guards to shoehorn onto a Moollon that has already been drilled for our guards is very much not worth the gamble.
• Since body drilling for guards is the last thing done during the assembly, the J-Classic IV and J-Classic V can also be ordered "Jaco style" sans guard or holes.
• Extra guards can be requested at time of order and slipped in the case for $50 (mint, white, black) and $60 (tortoise).
• On that note, although it's been mentioned here and there, the current red tort material we've been able to source locally is very pricey stuff for us to order, and the fact that we don't order in tens of thousands of pieces at a time "like an actual guitar factory can/would" is an additional reason why.
• As it's been asked a squillion times, it's also worth mentioning we regret that the much-coveted tort material is not separately available for your new or vintage bass as uncut blanks, and us being able to simply order enough for use on Moollon builds is on account of having the factory stamp them from our provided vintage tracings.
• The old brown tortoise material as found on c.2007 ~ 2013 Moollons is gone for good, and we haven't been able to spot a similar texture/hue since then.
• 3-ply guards for application on J-Classic IVs and P-Classic IVs (and the bodies themselves) can be pre-drilled in the shop for "ashtray" hardware and tug-bars. However, such accessories must be sent to the shop prior to assembly for application (if one wants them applied in-shop), since we can't get them over here at any reasonable cost.
Thank you! I'm definitely going to get involved. Mint or white alt for Olympic White J? Mint + Oly might just be ugly enough to work.
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