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Club Sadowsky!!!

Setup question. I got my bass shipped from Japan to New Orleans. When I got it the strings were touching the neck after tuning up. The 1st 3 frets buzzed when played and then it was ok further up the G string. Luckily I play with higher action so I put them at a good height, but I'm wondering if that buzzing was a sign of warp or if it was normal.


Sounds like the neck needed a truss rod adjustment.....not a bridge adjustment.
 
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As discussed above, action is very personal. When I do the final setup, I make sure the G string can go as low as 3/64" before bottoming out. This insures that the player will have enough range to tweak their bass from a very low action, to a moderately high action.

I consider very low to be 3/64" on the G and 5/64" on the E. On the high side, my range would be 3/32" on the G and 4/32" on the E. This is measured at the 12th fret, holding the string down at the first fret, and measuring from the bottom of the string to the top of the 12th fret. Add an additional 1/64" for a B string.

Hey, Roger--

If you would, please clue me. Why measure at the octave, instead of at the highest fret?
 
While we are still on the topic of action- I must say that I've found myself being able to play with a lighter touch with the RV5 over my other basses. I think the combination of the powerful preamp and being able to dial in my setup really low have helped me fine-tune a few things with my technique. I don't know if I can say that about other basses I've owned. It does cop the "fender feel" I'm so used to, while being its own animal entirely.
 
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Switching to in-ear monitors has helped me lighten my touch some. Our regular sound & light guys have Aviom personal mixers, so I can set my bass high in the mix and get a great, precise feel.

BTW, they say my MV4 is the best-sounding bass they've ever heard, and it's apparently not even close. I normally run passive, probably 2/3 toward the neck pickup. When I've tried to go active, they've noticed and told me to cut it out, LOL.

It's such a great bass, I love it.
 
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As discussed above, action is very personal. When I do the final setup, I make sure the G string can go as low as 3/64" before bottoming out. This insures that the player will have enough range to tweak their bass from a very low action, to a moderately high action.

I consider very low to be 3/64" on the G and 5/64" on the E. On the high side, my range would be 3/32" on the G and 4/32" on the E. This is measured at the 12th fret, holding the string down at the first fret, and measuring from the bottom of the string to the top of the 12th fret. Add an additional 1/64" for a B string.


I would add that following your exact instructions as far as setting pickup height is crucial to getting the most out of your basses, particularly with the PJ5 setup. Once I dialed that in, it really changed the game for me.
 
Also the famous string question: what do you guys like on your Sadowskys?

I really like Elixirs on Blackie (the alder/maple P5 in my avatar): they sound nice, and last a LONG time. They are especially valuable because they stand up to my summertime sweat, which can sometimes kill a set of uncoated strings within an hour. I keep Blackie detuned 1/2 step with my hard rock band, and with them I usually dial in a lot of aggressive clank with a Darkglass B7K, which makes up for the slight loss of high end from the coated strings.

Right now I have TI Jazz Flats on Red, my alder/Brazilian P5 (my classic rock/Motown bass), and Rotosound RS-66es on my custom Sadowsky MM5. That said: I like a lot of strings, including DR Lo Rider Steels, La Bella Hard Rockin Steels, D'Addario XL nickels, Dunlop brights (nickel or steel). Last but definitely not least, I like Sadowsky strings, both the black and blue label rounds.
 
Setup question. I got my bass shipped from Japan to New Orleans. When I got it the strings were touching the neck after tuning up. The 1st 3 frets buzzed when played and then it was ok further up the G string. Luckily I play with higher action so I put them at a good height, but I'm wondering if that buzzing was a sign of warp or if it was normal.

Also the famous string question: what do you guys like on your Sadowskys?
Roger (of course) had the correct response. Try loosening the truss spoke wheel with largest Allen wrench that will slide through holes both sides of spoke wheel maybe 1/8th turn (CCW looking from the bridge) and re-evaluate.
 
Hey, just thought I'd share this tidbit with my fellow Sadowsky aficionados...

A couple weeks ago I went ahead and put in an order for an NYC build of a Will Lee 5. Ash body, morado board, with their new bridge pickup that lets you switch between 60s and 70s positions. Was thinking in terms of a _best of both worlds_ approach to a JJ instrument.
 
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Hey, just thought I'd share this tidbit with my fellow Sadowsky aficionados...

A couple weeks ago I went ahead and put in an order for an NYC build of a Will Lee 5. Ash body, morado board, with their new bridge pickup that lets you switch between 60s and 70s positions. Was thinking in terms of a _best of both worlds_ approach to a JJ instrument.

We are calling that pickup the "Super-J." It also sounds really good with both coils on at the same time as well.
 
Changed my will Lee to that super pickup too!
Hey, just thought I'd share this tidbit with my fellow Sadowsky aficionados...

A couple weeks ago I went ahead and put in an order for an NYC build of a Will Lee 5. Ash body, morado board, with their new bridge pickup that lets you switch between 60s and 70s positions. Was thinking in terms of a _best of both worlds_ approach to a JJ instrument.
 
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The shop has been featuring some incredible instruments on social media lately.