The screws are more noticeable than if you just left the open holes.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
The oval head screws actually stick out the same amount with or without the countersunk washer, since the washer is countersunk past the bottom so that the screw goes in the same amount either way. I thought about your smaller screw idea, but the factory finish around the holes wasn’t clean and finished enough (some were a bit ragged with minor chips around the holes) for a smaller screw to cover the edges of the finish completely. I needed a bit of overlap to cover everything cleanly, hence the washer.
Without the washer, it would have taken a larger-than-factory screw to fully cover the finish edges around the holes. This way, I can use a factory size screw and not alter the holes in any way. I wanted everything to be totally reversible. If I wasn’t so persnickety, and the finish around the holes was cleaner, I would have just hit them with a blue sharpie and left them open, but my personality would never allow me to do such a thing, lol! Way more than any of you wanted to know, I’m sure!
Last edited:
Yes...if the holes were nice and clean from the factory, I might have left them, but they had enough chipping around them that they would not have looked that great.
gotcha. I guess in that case, I'd probably just use a little bit of touch up paint to hide the chipping/holes and maybe call it a day. But to each their own.The oval head screws actually stick out the same amount with or without the countersunk washer, since the washer is countersunk past the bottom so that the screw goes in the same amount either way. I thought about your smaller screw idea, but the factory finish around the holes wasn’t clean and finished enough (some were a bit ragged with minor chips around the holes) for a smaller screw to cover the edges of the finish completely. I needed a bit of overlap to cover everything cleanly, hence the washer.
Without the washer, it would have taken a larger-than-factory screw to fully cover the finish edges around the holes. This way, I can use a factory size screw and not alter the holes in any way. I wanted everything to be totally reversible. If I wasn’t so persnickety, and the finish around the holes was cleaner, I would have just hit them with a blue sharpie and left them open, but my personality would never allow me to do such a thing, lol! Way more than any of you wanted to know, I’m sure!
Yep...after all this, I’ll probably put a regular p/g back on before too long.
I saw pictures of your Geddy while looking for examples of pickguard-less basses...it looks great! I used to have one myself...kind of makes me wish I had it back, it was a sweet Jazz!
i still have my Geddy. it's on the heavy side, plus I play 5's mostly, but damn, when I get it out, it KILLS.
I’m interested in a NYC Satin or Metro Express (Japan) J5 with rosewood board if anyone is thinking about letting theirs go. “Not the Sage Color” please. Thanks !
Last edited:
I'm in the exact same place. I ordered it knowing it wouldn't get a ton of playing time, but it gets even less than I'd expected.
If only it were a 5.Such a treat to play with though, when I have time to fool around with a 4 string. Between that and a 4 string 4003W I also love, I regret not having enough time for the 4s.
Anyone know how different (if at all) the size is for the screw part of the strap button when comparing "OEM" Dunlops with the Schaller s-locks? Would like to swap from the former to the latter and am curious if I'll need to drill further or add toothpicks, etc.
why the HECK would you go from good to bad???
(jk total troll post, been discussed a bunch lol)
I know- I've seen them, I've even been in them....I just don't if I've ever seen actual size discussed and if I actually have to do anything different than screw / unscrew. It obviously isn't difficult, I just don't feel like even turning the screwdriver once until I know (more). It *looks* like the dunlop is a bit deeper.
Real reason is basically because 5 of my other basses are Schaller.
Last edited:
I recently went from S-Locks to Dunlop with no issue. I don't have a measurement of the thread or anything like that.
Thanks. That's kind of what I was looking for. Is the thread / pitch / diameter / depth different? -In which case I probably won't bother. (Edit: If dramatically different)
IME the Dunlop screws are smaller than most others. So, when I do a replacement, I often have to go with the toothpick-and-Elmers-glue solution. The only caveat is not to use too much glue. Has always worked fine for me.
I haven't used the newer Schallers (and it's literally been decades since I used the originals), but I doubt that their screws are smaller than Dunlops. But if they are: toothpicks and glue!
