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Club Sadowsky!!!

oh dear… sorry Ken … I’ll dig back and take it all in. I suppose it’s not so much the strings but just trying to appreciate the aspect of combinations rather than just pick ups… move on!
Oh no worries man! I just sometimes feel like we talk more about strings than anything else. There is plenty of reason to talk about strings, I didn’t mean to discount your observations. I’m sure you’ll get plenty of replies to answer any questions.
 
How do you like the Will Lee in your profile pic?
The Will Lee is fantastic in every way and my nr 1
How do you like the Will Lee in your profile pic?
It is fantastic in every way, best 4-string I ever had. Sound, build quality and playability are just superb. Later I also wanted to order the 5-string, but I just couldn't wait 5 months or more. The MJ was available, so I ordered that one.
 
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Hi
I’m A newbie and read this thread to gain knowledge about the world of bass! There seems to be lots of discussion about the combination and types of pick ups , but not a lot in terms of the type of strings and gauges. Can comments about pick up styles and types be relevant if we don’t know the string being used?
Sorry if this a dumb assumption or question!
My masterbuilt came with Sadowsky’s own nickel strings ( I think ) … do most people stick with Sadowsky strings or change brand to a personal preference?
Thanks
Gary
Hi Gary,

I change strings for something a little different. My 2004 RV4 came with Sadowsky Black lable steels. I did not like those. I changed to DR Highbeams. I used those for years. Recenty I changed to Dunlop Super Bright Nickel strings. Different feel and a little more mid range. I thinks strings are very personal. For me the feel on my fingers is important.
 
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Hi Gary,

I change strings for something a little different. My 2004 RV4 came with Sadowsky Black lable steels. I did not like those. I changed to DR Highbeams. I used those for years. Recenty I changed to Dunlop Super Bright Nickel strings. Different feel and a little more mid range. I thinks strings are very personal. For me the feel on my fingers is important.

I’ve just installed some ghs boomers… I suppose it’s only by giving different strings a chance I can begin to tell the difference and assess my likes and dislikes. How do you see the difference between Sadowsky steels v Nickel. I did have steels on but also picked up some nickel strings to install at some stage as part of the learning process!
 
I’ve just installed some ghs boomers… I suppose it’s only by giving different strings a chance I can begin to tell the difference and assess my likes and dislikes. How do you see the difference between Sadowsky steels v Nickel. I did have steels on but also picked up some nickel strings to install at some stage as part of the learning process!
You don't really see the difference between steel and nickel, at least I don't. I can feel it. To me, nickel seams a little more flexible. Just try different string with different materials and see what suits you best.
 
They are exactly the same!
Roger, I understand that the circuit is precisely the same; but it seems that one thing that continues to evolve is the mechanics. The solderless form of the preamp, which I believe is used in your NYC instruments, is an engineering marvel; in particular, very user friendly. The soldered versions are not quite so great to work with. I understand there are manufacturing cost considerations. FWIW, as a customer, I would be vastly more inclined to pay the incremental cost increase to have the solderless version. My $0.019.
 
Roger, I understand that the circuit is precisely the same; but it seems that one thing that continues to evolve is the mechanics. The solderless form of the preamp, which I believe is used in your NYC instruments, is an engineering marvel; in particular, very user friendly. The soldered versions are not quite so great to work with. I understand there are manufacturing cost considerations. FWIW, as a customer, I would be vastly more inclined to pay the incremental cost increase to have the solderless version. My $0.019.
with all due respect, why do you say that? generally speaking a soldered connection is always more reliable than a solderless one. the only benefit to solderless i know of, is if you want to tinker around and swap things in and out a bunch.

if you're a tinkerer, that's fair, but keep in mind (just as with a lot of us here on TB) the tinkerers represent the vast MINority of the market for production instruments... even high end ones such as the metrolines.

top of the line custom instruments, that market is different and probably has a higher percentage of tinkerers.

my .00000000000002. lol
 
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with all due respect, why do you say that? generally speaking a soldered connection is always more reliable than a solderless one. the only benefit to solderless i know of, is if you want to tinker around and swap things in and out a bunch.

if you're a tinkerer, that's fair, but keep in mind (just as with a lot of us here on TB) the tinkerers represent the vast MINority of the market for production instruments... even high end ones such as the metrolines.

top of the line custom instruments, that market is different and probably has a higher percentage of tinkerers.

my .00000000000002. lol
Good question. For one thing, there is the issue of the pan direction; which, I’m not trying to promote debate about that; but it is not uncommon to switch up the pickup feeds at the preamp to get whichever preference. Whole lot easier using the terminal blocks; and BTW, I’ve yet to have issues with the terminal block connections. Yes, the solder joint is more “reliable,” but the screw terminals have been pretty robust.

Also, there is the issue of pickup swaps; which are possibly tinkering, but also IME part of optimizing a given instrument.

I’m only a tinkerer in the sense of getting the instrument to be correct. After that I’m set and forget; get on with the playing. FWIW.
 
Good question. For one thing, there is the issue of the pan direction; which, I’m not trying to promote debate about that; but it is not uncommon to switch up the pickup feeds at the preamp to get whichever preference. Whole lot easier using the terminal blocks; and BTW, I’ve yet to have issues with the terminal block connections. Yes, the solder joint is more “reliable,” but the screw terminals have been pretty robust.

Also, there is the issue of pickup swaps; which are possibly tinkering, but also IME part of optimizing a given instrument.

I’m only a tinkerer in the sense of getting the instrument to be correct. After that I’m set and forget; get on with the playing. FWIW.
the pan swap is a decent point, but man, that's SUCH a simple change even with soldering, and it's a one time thing. i guess i still feel like most people don't do what you mention after that... some do, maybe a "majority" of us fanatics here on TB, but i still feel that's a vast minority of the metroline market.

my opinion would be opposite for the masterbuilts and nyc customs, however.

fwiw.
 
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the pan swap is a decent point, but man, that's SUCH a simple change even with soldering, and it's a one time thing. i guess i still feel like most people don't do what you mention after that... some do, maybe a "majority" of us fanatics here on TB, but i still feel that's a vast minority of the metroline market.

my opinion would be opposite for the masterbuilts and nyc customs, however.

fwiw.
Possibly so. I do know that I have messed with the pickups on every single Metro I’ve gigged. I can only speak for myself.
 
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The Will Lee is fantastic in every way and my nr 1

It is fantastic in every way, best 4-string I ever had. Sound, build quality and playability are just superb. Later I also wanted to order the 5-string, but I just couldn't wait 5 months or more. The MJ was available, so I ordered that one.
Awesome, glad to hear. I have the 5 string version of that same one and it is incredible. I currently have a couple NYCs and have owned other NYCs I've since sold, but I never had any Japanese Metros for comparison. That said, I'm extremely happy with mine.
 
...I never had any Japanese Metros for comparison...
I actually have. I have an older NYC that's just straight ash/maple, no fancy woods, etc. I have directly compared that bass to a Japanese Metroline, and the Metroline was completely legit on every level... tone, fit/finish, playability, all of it. I've always told people in the past, if you don't need fancy woods or special finishes, or maybe more recently, don't mind a little bit heavier of a bass, get the Metroline and save a few bux, because Yoshi's company did a HELL of a job on those.

I don't have any experience with the newer German Metrolines, but since you were specifically asking about the Japanese ones.

FWIW

Side note... I also owned a nearly identical Lull J bass... plain ash/maple, 34" scale, singles, and while that bass was great, I still preferred the Sadowsky overall. Mike Lull (RIP) was a gifted builder/luthier for sure.
 
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I actually have. I have an older NYC that's just straight ash/maple, no fancy woods, etc. I have directly compared that bass to a Japanese Metroline, and the Metroline was completely legit on every level... tone, fit/finish, playability, all of it. I've always told people in the past, if you don't need fancy woods or special finishes, get the Metroline and save a few bux, because Yoshi's company did a HELL of a job on those.

I hope the German ones meet that standard. I have a new MetroLine Will Lee RW4 coming in July.
 
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I hope the German ones meet that standard. I have a new MetroLine Will Lee RW4 coming in July.
my gut feeling on those is they'll represent, but you can tell us when you get it. I think the only niggles people have had is the move away from Dunlop to Schallers, and the new just-a-nut. That's got some people happy and some sad, but neither of those will affect the most important things about the instrument, so I figure that's super minor stuff.
 
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There’s also something about buried fret ends so I was told.

my gut feeling on those is they'll represent, but you can tell us when you get it. I think the only niggles people have had is the move away from Dunlop to Schallers, and the new just-a-nut. That's got some people happy and some sad, but neither of those will affect the most important things about the instrument, so I figure that's super minor stuff.

I haven’t played much less owned an NYC or Kikuchi model to compare to.
 
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Can anybody tell me what potentiometers go in a 2007 Sadowsky Metro P bass? Vol - Vtc/Active Passive(push pull) and the Bass/Treble pot. All the pots are scratchy and I've tried everything to clean them, so it's time to just replace them. If anybody has any info on this I'd appreciate it. I imagine Stewmac has whatever I need .Thanks!
 
Looks like Fretnation got a bunch of the SadowskyMan basses in stock.
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