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Thanks Roger... I was just about to look that up to verify it before posting this myself. I've always understood lemon oils are really designed to be cleaners, not conditioners, and that's also how Dunlop sells their oils. To be honest, I've rarely used lemon oils simply because my fingerboards just don't get that grungy. By the time I wipe off the excess conditioning oil, they look fantastic.
Again, never had any issue in 30 years with lemon oil (either the Dunlop cleaner/conditioner, or other brands, and both of the set-up guys in St. Louis have used it, as far as I know, since the late 60's. Michael Tobias also recommended it for his basses when I spoke to him back in the day. You definitely don't want to use the furniture polish stuff with silicone, etc. (although even that won't really hurt anything... it is for wooden furniture.
Sometimes we all think about this stuff a little too much. Have you ever seen an ebony or rosewood board that was owned by anyone who cared for it enough to oil it with anything (olive oil even!) every couple of years that didn't look great after 20 or 25 years
There are a hundred threads talking about this.However, no reason for Sadowsky owners not to use the conditioner Roger sells if they have a rosewood board... can't hurt
The key is to not use a lot, and not use anything that often.
If I'm gonna' treat the board, the best way to do it of course is without the strings in the way, so you gotta' remove them all.
That said, if all you want to do is change strings, it is best to do them one at a time. The reason is, if you remove all the strings then the neck moves more, and requires more "settling time" to get back to where it was, whereas with one string at a time, it'd probably never be noticeable.
All this depends on how particular you are about your action, of course.
Yeah, I know, and I think the reason the debate is so long lived is because you'd probably have to have the same bass for a VERY long time and do this pretty regularly for the "problem" to happen, and I think we all just flip basses too fast for that. The problem is, the oil is actually too thin, so it actually leaches the natural oils from the wood over time, rather than simply protecting the wood and the oils it already has.
Depending on the wood and the environment, I suppose this could take many years to have a problem be noticeable, and it would probably mostly manifest itself as a case where you just feel the need to use oil more often.
Bottom line is, it makes enough sense to me that I'm not going to risk it when totally non-controversial solutions are just as readily available.
I agree if you are oiling every time you change strings (BAD idea) this becomes a little more of an issue.. very little, but a possible issue after 50, 70 years whatever. While many of us don't keep basses that long, someone does (i.e., plenty of old basses being bought and sold), and a rarely, rarely, rarely see a board on a bass that is 20 or 30 years old that has a problem, IF it was taken care of (i.e., kept in a case, oiled at least every couple of years with something, etc.).
Again, no reason to not use the stuff you are comfortable with! I'm going to get some of the stuff that Roger recommends for my rosewood board.
Edit: There is a certain beauty, as Rob mentioned, of having only maple board instruments (I only own one RW board) and just wipin' 'er down with a damp cloth when it gets grungy.
HI
Yea, maybe once a year would be ideal. When I had RW boards, Id just have someone at the shop do it for me when I was there for a setup. Rob did it once on my NYC and I didnt even ask him. We were talking as he was doing it and I hardly noticed.
One thing to remember, if you are a novice to linseed oil, is you need VERY little do get the job done. Also, its very toxic so be careful when you dispose of the cloth you used
Rob
Yea, maybe once a year would be ideal. When I had RW boards, Id just have someone at the shop do it for me when I was there for a setup. Rob did it once on my NYC and I didnt even ask him. We were talking as he was doing it and I hardly noticed.
One thing to remember, if you are a novice to linseed oil, is you need VERY little do get the job done. Also, its very toxic so be careful when you dispose of the cloth you used
Rob
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
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- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
I have always like linseed oil.. the smell is nice too.. years ago mike Tobias told me to use mineral oil on an old Tobias bass that i had. it was fine.. but these days its always linseed oil. and a can last for years
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,516
- 19,952
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
FWIW, I love the Planet Waves Hydrate stuff that they sell at the Sadowsky shop.
I use it about twice a year on rosewood boards (while changing strings), and use nothing on maple boards.
I use it about twice a year on rosewood boards (while changing strings), and use nothing on maple boards.
OK. I don't want to make a big deal out of the oil thing. Just a few things.
1) Tung oil takes to long to try hard to use on a fingerboard. It stays tacky for quite some time.
2) Mineral oil is fine.
3) I did go through a period many years a go where I used lemon oil and I was shocked to see how dried out the boards were the next time I saw them. I have to stick to my guns and recommend you don't use lemon oils.
4) I am not trying to sell the Hydrate. I just started to carry it because one typically has to buy a large can of linseed oil and it can begin to harden before you make a dent.
5) Linseed oil is not toxic. It comes from flax seed. The issue is the rags used with oil finishes can spontaneously combust. When you are done oiling a fingerboard, put the rags in a baggy and wet them with water.
Roger
1) Tung oil takes to long to try hard to use on a fingerboard. It stays tacky for quite some time.
2) Mineral oil is fine.
3) I did go through a period many years a go where I used lemon oil and I was shocked to see how dried out the boards were the next time I saw them. I have to stick to my guns and recommend you don't use lemon oils.
4) I am not trying to sell the Hydrate. I just started to carry it because one typically has to buy a large can of linseed oil and it can begin to harden before you make a dent.
5) Linseed oil is not toxic. It comes from flax seed. The issue is the rags used with oil finishes can spontaneously combust. When you are done oiling a fingerboard, put the rags in a baggy and wet them with water.
Roger
About a month ago!
Another masterpiece by our very own dragonbass!
Single piece ash body (about 7.45 lbs.) single-coil goodness!
Need I say more?
I've been really busy, but a "family" pic (P5, 24/5, and Vintage JJ5-all built by Rob L.) is coming soon!
HI
Damn, K. I def need to check that one out in the flesh. Love caramel burst. Wow, light too. Get the portrait together!!
Rob
Damn, K. I def need to check that one out in the flesh. Love caramel burst. Wow, light too. Get the portrait together!!
Rob
I really don't need to say this in this thread, but this bass absolutely kills-like all the rest of them!
Preaching to the choir is what it is...
Preaching to the choir is what it is...
Andy Brown
Commercial User
- Jul 23, 2004
- 5,675
- 312
- Disclosures
- Founder/Owner: Wing Instruments
About a month ago!
Another masterpiece by our very own dragonbass!
Single piece ash body (about 7.45 lbs.) single-coil goodness!
Need I say more?
I've been really busy, but a "family" pic (P5, 24/5, and Vintage JJ5-all built by Rob L.) is coming soon!
WOW! That's incredible Kevin! Congrats! I hope to play it soon.
I'll be touch-we need to chill some juniper berries soon!
. Checked your web site earlier this week-good to see you guys are getting more gigs. Things are drying up a bit for us-we're changing direction a bit. This economy sux. 
