Club Sandberg (part 2)

[Jon Draffan]

Although in my videos I never give my opinion but leave it to the listeners, this time I will write what I think about these two basses and what are their pros and cons (but strictly as my subjective opinion):

Just a reminder...it'sa comparison of Sandberg California TT5 Superlight and Fender American Deluxe Jazz Bass V.

PROS for Fender (Cons for Sandberg):

1. Fender sound has slightly better articulated bass for my taste (but a very small difference that can be easily set with any EQ on Sandberg).
2. Adjusting the intonation on a Fender bridge is much easier and precise by simply adjusting the saddle screws without loosening the strings (kudos to Leo Fender for that design). Adjusting the intonation on Sandberg is a lot more complicated due to the mandatory loosening of the allen key on the saddle as well as the strings, and manually moving the saddle by hand which requires several attempts. (Manual for Sandberg bridge is in a video on my YT channel).
3. Fender does not have a neck dive (due to super light body, Sandberg has it but ONLY in sitting position).
4. Fender body is lacquered and the finish seems quite resistant, typical for Fenders. Sandberg's body is made of Paulownia wood, it is not varnished and seems very fragile and sensitive.
5. The fender has ''strings through body'' option (if that's an advantage to anyone).
6. Fender preamp is a 3 band EQ with Middle pot, opposite to Sandberg which is 2 band.

PROS for Sandberg (Cons for Fender):

1. Sandberg weighs (or light) an incredible 2,7 kg - 5,95 lbs.
2. Sandberg has one more fret.
3. Sandberg body geometry allows easyer access to the last frets then Fender.
4. Sandberg neck shape is thinner and more pleasant to play (subjective feeling again).
5. Sandberg has a "zero fret", so an "empty" string sounds more uniform with a pressed one (especialy with an older strings).
6. Changing the strings on Sandberg is simpler because they don't go through any holes. Changing strings on a Fender is more complicated due to threading them through the body or bridge (especially with already used strings).
7. Sandberg potentiometers seem to be of better quality. They are metal and do not move by themselves. Fender potentiometers are plastic and often inadvertently move to an unwanted position.
8. On Sandberg preamp it is easier to notice whether the bass is in passive or active mode due to the push/pull pot, which is very accessible.

Other parts and accessories on the basses I found to be pretty much the same.

Thank you for this. I have enjoyed your videos quite a lot. I didn’t know you had one about the Sandberg bridge (which I am really appreciating for removing/reinstalling flatwounds!). I will check that out.

Quick question about the zero fret… My TM4 a slight indentation under the E string… is that a problem?

 

[Jon Draffan]

But what I have discovered about neck dive on the lap is the CUT CONTOUR on the lower bout that makes a great deal

Yes! One thing that may bring me away from sandberg and back to a more conventional Fender body is the balance while sitting.

@vindibona1 I loved your “over improved” comment. I have one in the form of a Sire V7 that I am trying hard not to prefer.

 

[Jughead6]

Thank you for this. I have enjoyed your videos quite a lot. I didn’t know you had one about the Sandberg bridge (which I am really appreciating for removing/reinstalling flatwounds!). I will check that out.

Quick question about the zero fret… My TM4 a slight indentation under the E string… is that a problem?

IME that's an entirely normal part of setting the action. All of my fretted Sandbergs have had indentations on the zero fret, some more than others. They have all played beautifully.

 

[Iridescentone]

I don't want any loose metal anywhere near my guitars and basses. I use and like the rubber washer type like illustrated below. I paid under $5 for enough to cover 6 instruments. I like this brand because they are elastic enough to get on and off easily, yet do the job they're intended to do. The key is to have a sequence in which you put your strap on and lock it down using these. Ones that lack enough elasticity can make it a bit of a wrestling match. I see no need to put any expensive metal accessories near my wooden instruments. I guess that's one reason my '72 Martin D35 looks aged, but not worn.

View attachment 5300695

Thanks for posting this. I've been using the Grolsch beer types....they can be a bit hard to R&R.

 

[vokain]

I've been looking around for another bass because the guitarist in a band I just joined likes to play low in C# tuning, and he recommended I get a 5 string so I don't have to tune down.

Just bought this bad boy today.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

One of my bass teachers let me try his fretless out and I loved it. All ear playing.

I was asking him about me getting a fretless a few days later, and he recommended I get one that was just like my current bass. "Get the same model as your bass for now so you accustom to the sound board on both bass"

My bass is Sandy California VS4 superlight, and the Bass Central one is a Sandy California TT4 superlight. Both matte black. However, the VS4 has a maple neck, whereas the TT4 has a pau ferro neck. I'm not sure why they chose pau ferro over maple.

Active electronics in the TT4, whereas the VS4 is passive. Active electronics are new to me.

So I didn't get a 5 string (yet?) but my friend is letting me try out his Soundgear by Ibanez 6-string with fanned frets, so we'll see how that goes at the next jam

 

[_Obra_]

That's a pretty good review Obra. If I can ask a few questions and make a few points...

"1. Fender sound has slightly better articulated bass for my taste (but a very small difference that can be easily set with any EQ on Sandberg)"

"3. Fender does not have a neck dive (due to super light body, Sandberg has it but ONLY in sitting position)."


View attachment 5301207

The strings were the same on both basses during the test. Not two same sets, but one same new set transferred from one bass to another.

I thinks Sandberg neck dive in sitting position is caused by the shape of the body, not so much by the neck being heavier than the body. Because of that, there is no neck dive when the bass hang from the strap.

 

[_Obra_]

Thank you for this. I have enjoyed your videos quite a lot. I didn’t know you had one about the Sandberg bridge (which I am really appreciating for removing/reinstalling flatwounds!). I will check that out.

Quick question about the zero fret… My TM4 a slight indentation under the E string… is that a problem?

It's not a problem. My TM4 has it under 4 strings. I think they level it at the factory like other companies level the nut.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

The strings were the same on both basses during the test. Not two same sets, but one same new set transferred from one bass to another.

I thinks Sandberg neck dive in sitting position is caused by the shape of the body, not so much by the neck being heavier than the body. Because of that, there is no neck dive when the bass hang from the strap.

That was my worry with a Super Light (neck dive), that's why I went with a regular model with my bass on order (passive VT5), but with a roasted maple neck. That plus the soft body wood and stripping out screws, especially the strap pins.

 

[bdplaid]

That was my worry with a Super Light (neck dive), that's why I went with a regular model with my bass on order (passive VT5), but with a roasted maple neck. That plus the soft body wood and stripping out screws, especially the strap pins.

Have you ever had a bass made from paulownia? Not a problem, at least for me.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

Have you ever had a bass made from paulownia? Not a problem, at least for me.

Not yet, but I like the one I have enough (alder VM5) that I don't want to take a risk.

 

[ErikP.Bass]

Here are a couple of photos:

 

[LennyJ]

Was 1, then 2 and now 3. Just picked up the Lionel 3 tone this week. Played the Blue Lionel at Church and the sound guy loved it.

He also told me to leave my other basses at home since the Blue one.

 

[bdplaid]

Not yet, but I like the one I have enough (alder VM5) that I don't want to take a risk.

I've had screws strip from everything, including walnut. I have a bass that is lightweight alder and is the softest-wood bass I own. I have many basses in Paulownia and like the sound of it a lot. It's in the ash family. It is definitely soft, and will strip if too much force is applied, or if one removes and replaces the screws often. But toothpicks and CA glue, or sometimes just CA glue, fills and hardens it right up.

The benefits of paulownia are too good to pass up because of some possible stripped screw.

PS: I have 2 SLs and neither have had a stripped screw, especially the strap locks. I have one bass that used to loosen it's strap button periodically. I glued it in with CA.

 

[vindibona1]

I thinks Sandberg neck dive in sitting position is caused by the shape of the body, not so much by the neck being heavier than the body. Because of that, there is no neck dive when the bass hang from the strap.

I think that was the point I was trying to make. I don't ever play my basses or guitars without a strap even sitting. In fact, my straps are selected or modified to create friction somehow to aid in neck stability. For my lighter weight basses, Sandberg and Yamaha I use CHEAP Perris 3.5 in single ply straps, but break them in thoroughly and then cut a small crescent out of the leather where it presses on the artery in my neck. When I work them hard they take on a distressed looking texture that looks far more expensive than it was, about $12 back on 2018-2020. For heavier basses I do use padded straps, but the lining of the padding tends to be a bit too slick, so I rough it up a bit with sand paper just to give it a bit of friction. I have padded straps from Perris, Levys, Walker & Williams and Franklin.

Not to turn this into a strap thread, but when it comes to straps I think it's more about weight distribution where padding sometimes helps- but not always.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

I use seatbelt material straps, so any imbalance is immediately noticeable. I have some basses that balance extremely well, so when I strap one on that isn't, I can really notice. Sure, some downward pressure on the body and holding it up with your fretting hand will keep it steady, but I really don't want my arms working for a deficiency in the bass.

A grippy strap might help, but I also don't want one tugging on my shirt when I play and I am not about to go topless!

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

I've had screws strip from everything, including walnut. I have a bass that is lightweight alder and is the softest-wood bass I own. I have many basses in Paulownia and like the sound of it a lot. It's in the ash family. It is definitely soft, and will strip if too much force is applied, or if one removes and replaces the screws often. But toothpicks and CA glue, or sometimes just CA glue, fills and hardens it right up.

The benefits of paulownia are too good to pass up because of some possible stripped screw.

PS: I have 2 SLs and neither have had a stripped screw, especially the strap locks. I have one bass that used to loosen it's strap button periodically. I glued it in with CA.

I put some carpenter's glue on the strap pin threads and so far that has done the trick for me.

I know Dingwall used to put hard maple dowel reinforcements in those areas. That would make sense on softer wood bodies, but I am sure it would add to the labour costs.

 

[vindibona1]

I've been looking around for another bass because the guitarist in a band I just joined likes to play low in C# tuning, and he recommended I get a 5 string so I don't have to tune down.

Just bought this bad boy today.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

One of my bass teachers let me try his fretless out and I loved it. All ear playing.

I was asking him about me getting a fretless a few days later, and he recommended I get one that was just like my current bass. "Get the same model as your bass for now so you accustom to the sound board on both bass"

My bass is Sandy California VS4 superlight, and the Bass Central one is a Sandy California TT4 superlight. Both matte black. However, the VS4 has a maple neck, whereas the TT4 has a pau ferro neck. I'm not sure why they chose pau ferro over maple.

Active electronics in the TT4, whereas the VS4 is passive. Active electronics are new to me.

So I didn't get a 5 string (yet?) but my friend is letting me try out his Soundgear by Ibanez 6-string with fanned frets, so we'll see how that goes at the next jam

What is "low C# tuning? 3 half steps lower than standard tuning?

As far a Pau Ferro vs maple, Pau Ferro became semi-popular to replace rosewood when mfrs were challenged with obtaining rosewood for fingerboards. Thus the neck would be two layers, a maple or mahogany foundation with Pau Ferro or rosewood on top vs MAPLE, which normally one solid piece of wood CNC machined. Do they make fretless all maple necks?

I think you have inspired me... I have one 4 string which I would have to sell to make room for another bass... but I love the unique sound of fretless and only demoed one or two some years ago- but found them fun.

 

[vokain]

What is "low C# tuning? 3 half steps lower than standard tuning?

As far a Pau Ferro vs maple, Pau Ferro became semi-popular to replace rosewood when mfrs were challenged with obtaining rosewood for fingerboards. Thus the neck would be two layers, a maple or mahogany foundation with Pau Ferro or rosewood on top vs MAPLE, which normally one solid piece of wood CNC machined. Do they make fretless all maple necks?

I think you have inspired me... I have one 4 string which I would have to sell to make room for another bass... but I love the unique sound of fretless and only demoed one or two some years ago- but found them fun.

Yes it is three half steps down. I asked the same thing haha

which guitar would you sell?

im not sure about the fretless all maple neck question. And yes, this fretboard is pau Ferro with a maple foundation, so it’s sort of two tone

 

[GroovyBaby]

Was 1, then 2 and now 3. Just picked up the Lionel 3 tone this week. Played the Blue Lionel at Church and the sound guy loved it.

He also told me to leave my other basses at home since the Blue one.

View attachment 5302627

How does the long and short scale sound compare on these? It looks like they have different pickups so maybe that isn’t the best comparison.

 

[LennyJ]

How does the long and short scale sound compare on these? It looks like they have different pickups so maybe that isn’t the best comparison.

Yeap the long scale has the Delano type pickups and the short scale scales have their pickups. But all in all, the tone is very similar, but to me the short scale does not sound as overpowering on the e string. They seem to fit better in the mix - since when I play at Church, I play thru the house system. And the tension on the strings is less on the shorties.