Club Sandberg (part 2)

[Jughead6]

Have you considered the fumed oak option?

The fingerboards on Sandbergs are quite thick and, in my experience, have a appreciable influence on tone. The fumed oak is apparently somewhere between rosewood and maple and looks great (at least, in my opinion).
I've not owned or tried an ebony f/b Sandberg though.

Yes, I'm also interested to hear real world experience of fumed oak. From your description it sounds a bit like Pau Ferro (which I love).

 

[_Obra_]

Hi, Sandberg guys.

I'm about to order my first custom Sandberg ( MV4 hardcore aged alder) and will be sending my first payment soon... I'm still decidng between RW or ebony for the fretboard.

In your experience with Sandberg basses: is it ebony maybe too bright? Or any difference compared to RW is minimal soundwise ?

I love both RW and ebony... I think the latter would look cooler on the color combo I'll order, but have never played a Sandberg with an ebony board to A/B

Any info/experience is highly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi Orlan
I have one with the ebony
I like the feel and look of ebony to much and with modern preamp you can make whatever sound you want, despite the ebony by its nature is a little brighter than rosewood or maple.
Enjoy waiting for Your piece

 

[Orlan]

Thanks for your input!

Yes, ebony always has an elegant vibe and feel... and when passive there's always the tone control if treble needs to be tamed.

Do you have any vids of your bass?

 

[4titude]

Hey everyone! Here are my two Sandberg's an aged TM4 and VS4 which have turned into my main basses. I was mostly a Fender Jazz bass guy but definitely got the Sandberg bug now. Hope to get my hands on a Forty Eight soon. Cheers!

 

[_Obra_]

Thanks for your input!

Yes, ebony always has an elegant vibe and feel... and when passive there's always the tone control if treble needs to be tamed.

Do you have any vids of your bass?

Sorry, I do not have any vids of mine, but there are to many of them on YT, You can found a lot of good ones

 

[Wisebass]

hi guys

Have you considered the fumed oak option?

I'm also interested to hear real world experience of fumed oak.

The fumed oak option for fretboards has disapeared from the configurator!

Not enough commands or too many?


Would love to try one! It looked good!

greetings

Wise(b)ass

 

[kasbrey]

hi guys





The fumed oak option for fretboards has disapeared from the configurator!

Not enough commands or too many?


Would love to try one! It looked good!

greetings

Wise(b)ass

Yes it disappeared from the configurator a while ago but I read somewhere that it's still available.

 

[rsint]

This my new to me 2008 KT.
Did not expect anything really when I traded it for my 2007 Fender Jazz Deluxe V but it play's like a dream. The neck profile is absolutely perfect and the weight is a lot less then the jazz was. The low B is so much better then it was on the jazz too.
I've tried the search but couldn't find any numbers for factory string and pickup height. Do any of you have that info?

 

[Jim C]

I answered my own post about modifying a later Electra series bass to the older style in regards to installing a push/pull pot to turn off the active pre-amp.
Thought I would add this info here too for any folks with this future request.
BTW, incredible customer support from Mike at Sandberg.

 

[Jughead6]

This my new to me 2008 KT.
Did not expect anything really when I traded it for my 2007 Fender Jazz Deluxe V but it play's like a dream. The neck profile is absolutely perfect and the weight is a lot less then the jazz was. The low B is so much better then it was on the jazz too.
I've tried the search but couldn't find any numbers for factory string and pickup height. Do any of you have that info?
View attachment 3455094

Sorry, I don't. Send Sandberg an email and I'm sure they'll respond. My experience has been they have excellent aftersales support.

 

[taught]

Hi there!

I have an awkward problem:
I wanted to set up the string spacing on my TT4 and unfortunately I removed the string spacing tightening screw completely (instead of just loosening it). Now I cannot screw it back by any means. What did I do wrong? Did I damage the screw-thread? How can I screw it back?

 

[Jim C]

You might have damaged the threads on the screw if you were rough.
I haven't had mine apart but would think that it's a fine thread metric allan head screw.
Can you use a signle "L" key with the screw on the long end of the tool and gently turn the screw clockwise while you try to install it 90 degrees to the hole?
Gentle turn and maybe alter the angle a few degrees to find the starter thread.

 

[taught]

You might have damaged the threads on the screw if you were rough.
I haven't had mine apart but would think that it's a fine thread metric allan head screw.
Can you use a signle "L" key with the screw on the long end of the tool and gently turn the screw clockwise while you try to install it 90 degrees to the hole?
Gentle turn and maybe alter the angle a few degrees to find the starter thread.

I tried several times just the way you described. Actually this is the only way I tried and failed from the very first time.

 

[Jughead6]

I tried several times just the way you described. Actually this is the only way I tried and failed from the very first time.

If the screw is all the way out, can you take photos of the thread on the screw? Is it damaged? If so, then you'll need a replacement.

If not, then clean the screw and also try cleaning the thread in the saddle with a liberal dose of WD40. Let it dry off, then try to engage the screw again (gently).

I would expect the thread on the screw will be softer than the thread in the saddle, deliberately by design.

Just my 2c.

 

[Jim C]

I tried several times just the way you described. Actually this is the only way I tried and failed from the very first time.

Are you near a machine shop?
Chances are either a tap (for the hole) or a die (for the screw) would clean the offending thread up and have everything fixed.
If not, the machinist could advise you on the best course of action.

 

[Mammoth_Bass]

After a long time lurking I finally have a Sandberg on the way! An orange TM2 lightly relic’d. I feel like it would look nice with a white pearl PG. Any ideas where I can get one?

 

[DJ '65]

Nice bass! Try Sandberg’s website for a new guard.

 

[Wisebass]

hi Mammoth

After a long time lurking I finally have a Sandberg on the way! An orange TM2 lightly relic’d. I feel like it would look nice with a white pearl PG. Any ideas where I can get one?

Easy? Just ask Mark (USA)

Cool? Call Sandberg! Tel: 0049 (0)531-89 52 23

and have some fun!

or just look here:


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may the :: be with you

Wiebass

eddirthjdbe (edit) Wise(b)asss

 

[taught]

If the screw is all the way out, can you take photos of the thread on the screw? Is it damaged? If so, then you'll need a replacement.

If not, then clean the screw and also try cleaning the thread in the saddle with a liberal dose of WD40. Let it dry off, then try to engage the screw again (gently).

I would expect the thread on the screw will be softer than the thread in the saddle, deliberately by design.

Just my 2c.

I took a closer look of both the screw and the hole in the bridge. Unfortunately the thread of the bridge is damaged.

Are you near a machine shop?
Chances are either a tap (for the hole) or a die (for the screw) would clean the offending thread up and have everything fixed.
If not, the machinist could advise you on the best course of action.

See details above. I think I either take the bridge to a machinist to somehow repair the thread in the bridge or I'll just buy a new bridge.

 

[Jim C]

Can you post a clear photo of the hole?
Sometimes a tap can be run through the hole to clean up the starter thread; if not the new bridge part is a quick and easy fix.
The bridge could also be repaired with a device called a Heli-coil but probably not worth the cost