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Conspiracy to Commit Electronics Megathread

Sorry I'm so late to the party on this one, but Link Removed is a drop-in replacement for the Amphenol XLR jack.
So I went and built two Nobeliums, because why build one when you can build two for twice the price? :)

However I'm wondering if I got the wrong NC3MAAV jack though for the second one. It's a NC3MAAV-0. Can someone confirm whether this will work or not? I've attached pictures of both boxes and their jacks. The one with the silver case is the AC3MAV2-AU-PRE from the build doc. I've tested out the 1/4" out and everything works perfectly on both, but I haven't tested the XLR jacks yet as I don't have anything to connect it to. I'm giving one of them to a friend who's a gigging bassist so I don't want to blow up anyone's gear. As you can see, the one with the gold enclosure is missing the flat metal piece at the top. Neutrik's site is not very helpful and their datasheet is more concerned with dimensions.

Thanks in advance.

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So I went and built two Nobeliums, because why build one when you can build two for twice the price? :)

However I'm wondering if I got the wrong NC3MAAV jack though for the second one. It's a NC3MAAV-0. Can someone confirm whether this will work or not? I've attached pictures of both boxes and their jacks. The one with the silver case is the AC3MAV2-AU-PRE from the build doc. I've tested out the 1/4" out and everything works perfectly on both, but I haven't tested the XLR jacks yet as I don't have anything to connect it to. I'm giving one of them to a friend who's a gigging bassist so I don't want to blow up anyone's gear. As you can see, the one with the gold enclosure is missing the flat metal piece at the top. Neutrik's site is not very helpful and their datasheet is more concerned with dimensions.

Thanks in advance.
it'll work fine.
 
I finally built a NB for myself:)
Included are my stock PA and Bassdude.
I finished my Bassdude but I put the Bright capacitor C6 on a switch, I was thinking of leaving it out but me and my daughter play (try to) bass and guitar so I decided to place it on a switch.
I put 2 wires where the cap mounts on the PCB and I ran them to terminal 1 & 3 on a normal SPDT switch, I placed the cap on the switch to terminals 2 & 3.
I tested the pedal with a 9V battery and it powered up ok, I will try it tomorrow on some amps.
I have to test the Passinwind PW3BLPF_v2-8 pedal I finished as well, hopefully it will test ok.

I have to really consider which pedals I want to leave stock and which I want to BASStardise when I build them, some need lots of capacitors changed slightly for better bass performance.
 
Finished my Nobelium tonight. Worked first time, no smoke!

I'm still exploring the sound, but I'm very happy with the tone of the balanced out going through a class-D amp & 18" cab.

I took advice from this list and upgraded C1, C7, C10, C11, and C12 with audio grade film capacitors. My only real issue on the build is that the Solen C12 is enormous! I had to do some serious re-routing to get it to fit in the box with everything else.

Posting some pics. I hope they scale properly.
 

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Ambassador on bass is going to be pretty underwhelming. Matchless/Vox voicing is one of the least favorable for bass repsonse and would require significant modification to get decent bass frequencies through.

Black Eye is just a couple cap swaps away from being a killer bass drive, but I'm not aware of any good bass demos of it on the interwebs.
I can't seem to find it in this thread... where can I read about the cap swaps for Black Eye?
 
When I build my Black Eye for bass I am going to change the following:
1. Leave out bright caps C11 and C12, I might put them on a switch marked Bright for guitar.
2. Increase C13, C14 to 22uF or 47uF, also C15 to about 200nF. These might go on a switch marked Deep.
3. Change C7 to 56nF, change C9 and C10 to 47nF
 

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I am planning on trying an Ambassador for Bass mod on one of my Ambassador builds, I have a feeling I might have to swap the tubes for something with less gain to possibly make it work.
I am going to try the following:
1. Remove bright caps C5 and C6, they might go on a switch marked Bright. you do not want bright caps in a bass circuit.
2. Change C11, C12, C13 to 22uF, they might be added with a switch marked Deep
3. Change C7 to 47nF, maybe C8 to 47nF as well even though it should not need it changed.
4. Change C9 to 560pF in the tone stack
I might also change the stomp switch to true bypass and add a separate channel switch with clean/both/drive positions in it.
 
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I built my little prototype 1w amp and I had made a few silly mistakes, but it works.
I think I will make another layout to fix my errors after I have played with it for a while.
I can fit a Hammond 125A transformer in the 1590BB2 box but I decided to use a MusicalPowerSupplies transformer mounted on top of the box instead.
The MPS OT2PP-8 transformer will have a lot better bass response then the Hammond 125A transformer, I have only tried the amp with a signal generator so far but it sounded ok to me.
It will be run on 12V but it might be ok on 9V as well, that's my first attempt to make my own tube pedal and it seems fine to me.
I haven't set the high voltage yet but it was nearly 300V when I turned it on so I left it for now.
I used a 12AY7 and a 12AU7 first and now I have a 12AY7 and a 12BH7 in it at he moment.
It only has IN, OUT 8 ohm and headphones out for now, lots of tweaking to do before I make the next better version.
Cheers
Mick
 

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Are the graphics going to include some checker plate like the original one ?
(that's also a hint not to forget the drill files and artwork, I'll order the box as soon as its done.) :)

I can picture a chrome box with dark shading that makes it look like checkerplate, a blacked out area over the vents and the knobs with the writing in white or just clear so you see the chrome box under.

Tayda has a nice Chromium box colour, or just a clear-coated box will also look good in checkerplate shading.
I'm just a little bit excited to get my hands on this one.
 
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Are the graphics going to include some checker plate like the original one ?
(that's also a hint not to forget the drill files and artwork, I'll order the box as soon as its done.) :)

I can picture a chrome box with dark shading that makes it look like checkerplate, a blacked out area over the vents and the knobs with the writing in white or just clear so you see the chrome box under.

Tayda has a nice Chromium box colour, or just a clear-coated box will also look good in checkerplate shading.
I'm just a little bit excited to get my hands on this one.
That is what I did back when I used this circuit as a Sushi Box product, no reason I couldn't dig up the file and carry over something similar for the UV print file on this one.

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