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Convert your bass to short scale

WarriorJoe7 said:
Oh yeah I have heard what Manring does. I have not seen it but my mouth drops and awe at the thought of it. I heard he has all these mechanical things on his bass to change tunings for harmonics. Do you know where there is a soundclip?

You have to see it to believe it!!! I've seen him live a couple time and attended two SWR clinics with Michael on consecutive days.

It's almost as entertaining to watch him change his tunings when he chats between songs as it is to listen to him play... IIRC, the "Zon Michael Manring Signature Hyperbass" has D tuners on each string and his bridge has three levers to alter the tuning of pairs of strings differently. That bass scares me.

More to the point of this thread...that's a great idea...one of "Doh, why didn't I think of that!" head slappers...

For the math inclined, fret placement is calculated using the 12th root of 2. A long time ago Guitar Player had an article about it and challenged the readers to fret a football field...and we already know that the 12th fret would be on the 50 yard line (for American football that is...).
 
BillyB_from_LZ said:
You have to see it to believe it!!! I've seen him live a couple time and attended two SWR clinics with Michael on consecutive days.

It's almost as entertaining to watch him change his tunings when he chats between songs as it is to listen to him play... IIRC, the "Zon Michael Manring Signature Hyperbass" has D tuners on each string and his bridge has three levers to alter the tuning of pairs of strings differently. That bass scares me.

More to the point of this thread...that's a great idea...one of "Doh, why didn't I think of that!" head slappers...

For the math inclined, fret placement is calculated using the 12th root of 2. A long time ago Guitar Player had an article about it and challenged the readers to fret a football field...and we already know that the 12th fret would be on the 50 yard line (for American football that is...).

Thanks, I will have to see him sometime.

Yeah the formula i included below the first set of measurements is based on the 12th root of 2... the 12 stands for the 12 notes in an octave. If you ever wanted to make an instrument that has 13 even-tempered notes in a scale than you can tweak the formula by replacing the 12 with 13.

DistanceFromNut = ScaleLength/(2^(FretNumber/NotesInOctave))

or for a standard 34 inch bass...

DistanceFromNut = 34/(2^(FretNumber/12))
Fret number zero is the nut itself.

A 41 inch bass with 9 even-tempered notes in an octave would be

DistanceFromNut = 41/(2^(FretNumber/9))
Just be sure to make a matching guitar with a 9 note chromatic scale lol
 
VEGANBASS said:
I did it and I love it!

The problem with ss basses is that they are poorly made unless you spend the money for a high-end bass. The capo on the second fret solves the problem. Now I can play my Geddy as a shortscale. I am quite pleased.

cool I am glad you like it. You DID have to either change to heavier strings or else adjust the truss rod, correct? This would be the exact case as with a real short scale because of the slightly lower tension. Also you must not mind the dot moves. The osund shouldn't be too different and if you like vibrato the lower tension makes that easier. If you like really tight feeling strings then short scale isn't for you, because it is noticeable, but not too bad.

Joe
 
Charles_A said:
I've been toying with buying a 6 string, but would want to be able to capo it. The capo I have now looks too small. Are there capos out there that would fit a sixer?

I think I have HEARD that a shubb capo would be wide enough or maybe that roller capo thingy but I am not completely sure.

ask the moderator TPLYONS. He has a shubb and may have done this.

Joe

Edit: Oh wait he says it works on a narrow 5 above. How about 2 capos one from each side. LOL as if you already don't look like a dork. The roller capo thingy would look best if it fits.
 
WarriorJoe7 said:
cool I am glad you like it. You DID have to either change to heavier strings or else adjust the truss rod, correct? This would be the exact case as with a real short scale because of the slightly lower tension. Also you must not mind the dot moves. The osund shouldn't be too different and if you like vibrato the lower tension makes that easier. If you like really tight feeling strings then short scale isn't for you, because it is noticeable, but not too bad.

Joe
I used BEAD stringing except for the B. I found the .132 B annoying with its huge girth. I have replaced it with a higher tension E (fender Flatwound 105) and find it works fine. No TR adjustments necessary. If you capo on the 2nd fret the dot moves arent a problem until you get below the 8th fret where it changes from the traditonal configuration. Now I just remember that the 12th is actually the 14th and 10th actually 12th etc, etc. Not too bad really.

This really makes it more enjoyable to play and I can play faster and more accurately. Bonus.
 
WarriorJoe7 said:
Joe

Edit: Oh wait he says it works on a narrow 5 above. How about 2 capos one from each side. LOL as if you already don't look like a dork. The roller capo thingy would look best if it fits.

LOL...the image of me with a six stringed bohemoth with a capo coming off each side just busted me out laughing. Talk about Nerd City. And no way the roller capo has enough tension to give a smooth open string sound. I guess my Geek Dreams are dashed.
 
I've just performed a capo experiment with my bass.

I was able to get it playing perfectly well at the 6th fret, and more or less usable at the 7th (running out of string on the tuning peg at this stage). Bearing in mind it's a short scale bass to start with, that means you could have - subject to setup - a 20-21" scale bass.

I had no problems with tone, either, but that might be because it's a resonator bass and maintains its clang and attack despite loss of string tension.

My main instrument is an Ashbory, and that's 18" scale, and the main problem with it is the intonation is difficult to control, so I'm dead pleased with the potential of a "proper" bass at this kinda length.
 
Still loving this setup!

I am using a 105 for the E , 95 for the A, 80 for the D, and 65 for the G. I strictly use Chromes flatwounds. Capo on second fret. The dot marks all line up like a regular bass until you hit the 9th fret. It works really well with these string gages its not slack at all. I actually prefer heavier tension as it allows me to achieve lower action.

So in summary:

- the tone is just as good as if it were traditionally setup another words excellent

- the fatter / higher gage strings give the bass more low-end. No more twangy G thank you very much.

- the action is nice and low

- the strings dont flop around

-the shorter scale makes this bass very easy to play

- I think the capo allows one to achieve lower action as it "pushes" the strings onto the fingerboard.

I also love the fact that I can still use my high-end (to me) bass and not lower my standards, in terms of bass quality, to play shortscale.

The only disadvantage is that musicians think your'e weird as they ask why you have a capo on your bass. Not that I really care.

Any suggestions for a super low profile capo?
 
A friend of mine who's been playing guitar for many years says that using capos on basses or guitars throws off the intonation.

True?

If you keep the open strings tuned to the regular notes and then put on a capo it shouldn't affect intonation any more than fretting a note.

However if you put the capo on the 2nd fret and then tune E-A-D-G it definitely affects the neck bow and may affect intonation. That is why you need a FULL setup if you plan to keep it semipermanent. Do both neck relief AND intonation.

Joe