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Convert your bass to short scale

#42
TheApostlePaul said:
Has anyone tried this with a fretless bass?
Click to expand...

It should work but with a few more challenges.
That would be a tough one based on 2 things.

1) You need a capo that matches the radius of the neck almost perfectly at the point where the capo will be placed. Even then the capo would probably have to be pretty strong.

2) I think it would work on a lined fretless but would be quite tough to do on an unlined fretless. (are the side dots where the fret is, or in the center of the space like a fretted?)

I can think of a custom piece of wood with foam rubber clamped down on both sides to another piece of wood behind the neck. But that solution wouldn't be easy to make or to move once installed.
 
#43
Reviving this thread. . .

By chance I tried a capo on the second fret of my American Jazz Deluxe last night, strung with flats, and I got instant Hofner on steroids (well, almost... it ain't no hollowbody). . .

This is a big breakthrough for me. I've been wanting to play shortscales exclusively for a long time, but Hofners are uncomfortable to to play live (hollowbody with beer guy does not pair well ergonomically) and I did try a Corto Bass from Birdsong Guitars, but it just wasn't for me.

I'm about to place an order for a Rob Allen Mouse, but using a capo is just so convenient. You get the extra fatness that the short scale provides, while making for a very comfortable playing experience, because you don't have to extend your arm too much when playing around the first position. I play very repetitive music that requires I play the same bass line for 10 minutes at a time (exaggerating), so I always end up getting tired.


Regarding fretless, I tried, but it doesn't work well because there is no fret to act as a nut, so the action around the first frets is too low, and you get excessive "mwah." It works on fretted because the fret acts as a zero fret, and lowers the action nicely, and still allowing for buzz-free playing by adjusting the truss rod and saddles.

And I think this is a good idea even long term, because a quality shortscale is a custom order, and will always cost you more than a comparable 34"-scale.

Bottom line: If short scale ever interested you for any reason, try this.

Just remember to take the time to setup the bass for the lower tension, which will normally require to raise the saddles a bit, and loosen the truss rod a bit.
 
#45
lefty007 said:
Reviving this thread. . .

Regarding fretless, I tried, but it doesn't work well because there is no fret to act as a nut, so the action around the first frets is too low, and you get excessive "mwah." It works on fretted because the fret acts as a zero fret, and lowers the action nicely, and still allowing for buzz-free playing by adjusting the truss rod and saddles.

....
Click to expand...

Good stuff!

You could take a thin piece of material (wood, folded over business card, whatever) and place it between the fingerboard and strings and try the capo again. I have no idea how well it would work, but it would work (assuming careful placement).

You'd want something flat though, so it wouldn't dent the fingerboard and would conform to the radius.
 
#46
I have had my Geddy Jazz set up with a capo like this for months now. Possibly a year. The thing to remember is to use VERY high tension strings. Currently I use Fender 9050Ms and they work very well. I have never been able to get my action so low sans capo. I have a set of Jamersons on the way too.

Another great thing is that using a capo on a regular neck means you still get the regular neck width.

Anyway this is long term for me. I possibly may never go back.
 
#48
VEGANBASS said:
A friend of mine who's been playing guitar for many years says that using capos on basses or guitars throws off the intonation.

True?
Click to expand...

Yeah it does throw off the intonation which is why when you decide to use a capo permanently you should follow all of these steps in order:

1) Get new strings... heavier guage if you want to keep the tension high.
2) Tune to pitch and readjust the neck bow (the tension will likely change)
3) Adjust your bass saddles
4) reintonate the bass

Once you reintonate you can't go back to full scale unless you reintonate again. So it is possible for you to get a short scale that has great intonation but you might as well keep it that way (you can't just go back and forth.)

Joe
 
#49
The Penguin said:
I don't see how it could anymore than fretting a note. Tuning maybe, intonation, unlikely.
Click to expand...

I am not sure why, but it actually does. Maybe it has something to do with all 4 strings being held down at a different point. Oh wait, I know why. Because you are detuning.

If you didn't do the capo thingy (weren't going for short scale) but just decided to detune all the strings by a step, it messes up the intonation. The only difference with short scale is that you detune a whole step and then put a capo on the 2nd fret.
 
#50
lefty007 said:
Regarding fretless, I tried, but it doesn't work well because there is no fret to act as a nut, so the action around the first frets is too low, and you get excessive "mwah." It works on fretted because the fret acts as a zero fret, and lowers the action nicely, and still allowing for buzz-free playing by adjusting the truss rod and saddles.
Click to expand...

So with fretless the next step is to put a thin piece of hard plastic under the strings and the capo on top of the string. We are talking something less than a millimeter thick. if you look on a fretless the nut is cut very low but the strings do not usually touch the fretboard (though I have seen it.) The nut acts as a very thin shim at the end of the neck. You could duplicate this with a very thin piece of plastic or mica. If you try it, post back here.
 
#51
WarriorJoe7 said:
I am not sure why, but it actually does. Maybe it has something to do with all 4 strings being held down at a different point. Oh wait, I know why. Because you are detuning.

If you didn't do the capo thingy (weren't going for short scale) but just decided to detune all the strings by a step, it messes up the intonation. The only difference with short scale is that you detune a whole step and then put a capo on the 2nd fret.
Click to expand...

OK, that makes sense :)
 
#54
Just put LaBella Jamersons on. The tension on these strings is huge so it works really well for this application (with capo on second fret, tuned to standard tuning).

I was using Fender 9050Ms which are also fairly high tension, but the Jamerson's tension is noticeably higher. I also like that the Jamersons are smoother to the touch.

Heck, I might even be able to get the action even lower, which is already pretty low.

I got these strings from Elderly Instruments for $27.50 which is quite cheap for flats of this quality.

Now I just have to work the new string "zing" out of them.
 
#55
Well... you don't even have to use the capo. You can leave the open notes there for extra flexibility. You just tune down and then play up a fret. I mean, have you ever wanted to play an Eb? There it is!

Tune down to Eb, same as capo on 1st fret = 32" scale (approx)
Tune down to D, same as capo on 2nd fret = 30" scale (approx)
and it'll work on a fretless, too!
 
#56
True but if you are used to using the open strings for certain songes, then add a capo! Voila, automatic short scale...

PaleMelanesian said:
Well... you don't even have to use the capo. You can leave the open notes there for extra flexibility. You just tune down and then play up a fret. I mean, have you ever wanted to play an Eb? There it is!

Tune down to Eb, same as capo on 1st fret = 32" scale (approx)
Tune down to D, same as capo on 2nd fret = 30" scale (approx)
and it'll work on a fretless, too!
Click to expand...
 
#57
When I capo at the second fret I end up with a 35" scale length and F# B E A tuning.

I think this 'speriment is lost on me.

freak.gif
 

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