converting an acoustic six-string to an acoustic bass

[JoeDeF]

Here's the fretboard. Can anyone tell what kind of wood it is?

Looks like some variety of flatsawn beech to me...

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/beech.htm

Joe

 

[landolakethat]

Very interesting.

It's probably whatever type of wood was cheapest and most available in Korea at the time.

How much of an affect will this type of wood have on the overall sound of the guitar?

 

[MNAirHead]

I did this once.. was fun until I popped the $200 for a used Ibanez AEB

 

[johhn smith]

that's definately not rosewood - you know, even with flats you'll probably chew or trough the neck. at first it reminded me of lacewood or beech but i don't think it's either of those it may be nato wood.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nato_wood

i couldn't find a good picture but it looks similar and the geographics support it. i know that it is used in southeast asia a lot so that's my guess.

 

[landolakethat]

that's definately not rosewood - you know, even with flats you'll probably chew or trough the neck. at first it reminded me of lacewood or beech but i don't think it's either of those it may be nato wood.

Despite the regional evidence, I'm still convinced it's beech wood. Nato (aka, nyatoh) wood doesn't have the small dashes in the grain like beech wood.

 

[bassteban]

OK, I did not read aall the replies, but I'll say it just in case: It's a fingerboard now, as it has no frets. Also- obviously, I realize you've pulled the frets; reading through some of the defretting threads may help you w/your coating(sanding sealer)question.

 

[PilbaraBass]

It looks like it .... not Rosewood.... not maple.... and DEFINITELY not ebony....
So Conventional fretboard is pretty much out...
I can't put my finger on what kind of wood that is... i'm sure a more experienced luthier will chime in....

not a woodworker or luthier...but the wood looks like oak...

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[Jazz Ad]

It looks like beech to me, which is a strange choice for an instrument.

 

[BillyIVbass]

If you use flatwound strings, I wouldn't put any finish at all on it. Otherwise I'd lightly rub in some Tung Oil. Semi gloss is easier to work with.

 

[tova]

there is a couple of threads about this convertion, I don´t think any of them went fretless, I did with mine and wasn´t very pleased with the result, but still it is a fun thing to have. next will be a spanish classical with the frets on, don´t worry about the tension if you use a standard set of strings, they´ll be a bit floppy but will do the job. you could always use a heavy gauge set to make it a bit tighter, but I dont think the neck will take nicely a set of BEAD tuned EADG (that was my initial approach).
For the fingerboard I used a resin board I got from work, I think is called tuffnol, I tried it with a aluminium board but was horrible.
good luck and post pics!

 

[Luke.Walton]

I'm interested to see how this pans out.

Keep us posted please

Oh yeh, I have nothing of any value to add to this thread, just a heads up.

Luke.

 

[landolakethat]

Here are some photos of the job.

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Here's the bridge that I'm going to replace.

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Still have a lot of sanding to do...

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Here's a picture of the bow in the fingerboard. It's mostly caused by a steep upward bow near where the fingerboard meets the headstock. Since there is no adjustable rod, I'm going to have to sand it as flat as possible.

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Here's the country of origin; I'm assuming "South" Korea.

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[KramerBassFan]

Still not sure on the fingerboard... but i have my moms old acoustic, a sometime sixties made in japan by "Suzuki" Acoustic...
And the fingerboard looks quite similair... except a very heavy finish was applied to the fingerboard... Like, they painted it on HEAVILY, and there are big runs in it...

 

[lunarpollen]

Is the body long enough for you to place the bridge far enough down for correct bass scale length???

I'd worry about the internal structure of the body not being correct for the ideal transmission of vibration through where the new bridge would have to be placed.

 

[scotch]

well, first off. before you put any kind of bass strings on that guitar, you need to factor in tension. 6 strings have much less tension that bass strings and the body will most likely collapse, and you will be out of an instrument

Is this even remotely true?

A typical set of D'Addario phosphor bronze light gauge strings totals @ 163 lbs of tension.

A typical set of D'Addario light nickel wounds (4 string)
totals @ 147 lbs. of tension.

Sure, a couple of the individual strings are a bit higher, but the total pull appears to be a lot less!

 

[landolakethat]

Is the body long enough for you to place the bridge far enough down for correct bass scale length???

I'd worry about the internal structure of the body not being correct for the ideal transmission of vibration through where the new bridge would have to be placed.

I think I'm going to put the new bridge where the old one was, simply because that's where a structural beam runs across the underside of the face.

Also, wouldn't changing the scale cause the inlaid frets to be out of position?

 

[teej]

Also, wouldn't changing the scale cause the inlaid frets to be out of position?

Absolutely. What you COULD do is leave the scale where it is, change the nut and bridge to accommodate 4 strings, change the tuning key arrangement, and rather than using actual bass strings, just string it with the E, A, D, and G guitar strings.

 

[landolakethat]

Absolutely. What you COULD do is leave the scale where it is, change the nut and bridge to accommodate 4 strings, change the tuning key arrangement, and rather than using actual bass strings, just string it with the E, A, D, and G guitar strings.

The trouble is, I've already bought some bass strings.

As far as scale goes, does anyone know of a website or guide that I can use to ensure that I have proper lengths as far as the positioning of the bridge and saddle and nut go?

 

[teej]

Look for a program called w-fret. In fact, don't look. I have a copy of it. I'll post a link.

EDIT: Okay, I can't post a link, but I do have the file. I can e-mail it to you, if you would like. Just PM your e-mail address.

 

[johhn smith]

Despite the regional evidence, I'm still convinced it's beech wood. Nato (aka, nyatoh) wood doesn't have the small dashes in the grain like beech wood.

yeah, i'm not sure. it probably is beech ( i thought beech right away, but then changed my mind ). i have a stool here that has a beech top on it and comparing the two they are similar. it is hard to tell sometimes.