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Copper Tape in Toronto??

Electrosonic has it. http://www.e-sonic.com/. They do have a retail counter, though they are mainly trade sales.

Victoria Park and Steeles area.

js

This was actually the first place i went to when I started looking for copper tape. Sadly they closed down that store front Dec.23 and no longer have a location in Toronto. But they can ship from Buffalo with shipping of 8.50 or something as the phone receptionist told me.

A1 is perfectly fine for copper tape. It is actually way cheaper then it would be online even before shipping. They have a lot of stuff including audio pots at about 2$ each. This is way better then the 7$ they sell them for in L&M. I have both and can't really tell the difference at all between the two.
 
This was actually the first place i went to when I started looking for copper tape. Sadly they closed down that store front Dec.23 and no longer have a location in Toronto.

Hadn't heard that - that's a drag. End of an era.

Been going there since the 60s - originally with my father who bought components to repair TVs.

js
 
Yep, he's right. I've used aluminium tape with non conducting adhesive and measured very low resistance between at least 10 strips used on a pickguard. I ran my fingernails over the joints to compress the edges. Made very good electrical contact. Still good today, joined it years ago.
 
Yep, he's right. I've used aluminium tape with non conducting adhesive and measured very low resistance between at least 10 strips used on a pickguard. I ran my fingernails over the joints to compress the edges. Made very good electrical contact. Still good today, joined it years ago.

I'd rather just spend a bit more and do it right. If the aluminum tape becomes discontinuous I can't complain. I like to reserve my right to complain. :smug:

So, do I have to order it from Stew Mac? It seems an item just like any other from 3M's catalog but all the local stores I search don't seem to have it.
 
You don't need it to do that.

Of course you do. It's only shielding if it's grounded. You need to make sure every piece of shielding is electrically continuous to ground.

If there are any intermittencies, they will just become noise MAKERS as bits of shield turn "on" and "off" with movement of the instrument and pickguard, etc.
 
I'd rather just spend a bit more and do it right. If the aluminum tape becomes discontinuous I can't complain.

If you have discontinuity, it's only because you didn't lay the job out right in the first place.

It's really that simple.

If you really want to get pointlessly redundant and anal-retentive, you can use a foil-splicing tool, but I only use one for quick-patching discontinuities others have made in poor layouts.

Continuity is continuity. It's not like you're trying to hold water.
 
If you have discontinuity, it's only because you didn't lay the job out right in the first place.

It's really that simple.

If you really want to get pointlessly redundant and anal-retentive, you can use a foil-splicing tool, but I only use one for quick-patching discontinuities others have made in poor layouts.

Continuity is continuity. It's not like you're trying to hold water.

Maybe you've had success with foil, but I'd still rather do it right.

And sorry, but continuity is NOT continuity. Contact that isn't solid will contribute to intermittencies that will actually create crackle noises as pieces of the shield come on and off of ground. I want to do this once, as well as possible.

And lo and behold, there IS a correct product for doing this job, and I'm just trying to source it. (As are the O.P. of this thread and many others posting here.)
 
This was actually the first place i went to when I started looking for copper tape. Sadly they closed down that store front Dec.23 and no longer have a location in Toronto. But they can ship from Buffalo with shipping of 8.50 or something as the phone receptionist told me.

A1 is perfectly fine for copper tape. It is actually way cheaper then it would be online even before shipping. They have a lot of stuff including audio pots at about 2$ each. This is way better then the 7$ they sell them for in L&M. I have both and can't really tell the difference at all between the two.

Go to a store that sells supplies for making stained glass.

Lee Valley may sell it, too. They have a great selection of items and great prices. Based in Canada, too.
 
Maybe you've had success with foil, but I'd still rather do it right.

And sorry, but continuity is NOT continuity. Contact that isn't solid will contribute to intermittencies...

Contact that is not solid is not continuity.

You keep arguing a false point. There's no excuse for discontinuity except dumb layout.

All this pricey go-faster stuff is unnecessary and gives zero advantage, and if you can't think a solid layout you can still manage to screw it up, even with your magical tape.

And lo and behold, there IS a correct product for doing this job, and I'm just trying to source it.

Son, this is your lucky day.

In that you seem to be obsessed with some Platonic ideal of overkill shielding for its own sake, the "correct product" is a foil splicing tool.

I used to do shielding in zero-defects electronics and that's what they use. They're wildly overpriced at about ten bucks. I still have a few from the old days, but people say the easiest place to find them is at alarm supply places. They use them to patch window foil loops.

But if you can't do smart layout, magic foil and pro foil tools won't prevent a defective job -- and if you do smart layout, there's no point to any of that in the first place.
 
I was able to buy two sheets of WD Music Products copper foil sheet from Steve's Music on Queen Street sometime last year. Forgot the price, but the adhesive is conductive. Either way, I still "seam soldered" the foil edges for good measure. Give them a call if they still have the stuff.
 
Contact that is not solid is not continuity.

You keep arguing a false point. There's no excuse for discontinuity except dumb layout.

All this pricey go-faster stuff is unnecessary and gives zero advantage, and if you can't think a solid layout you can still manage to screw it up, even with your magical tape.



Son, this is your lucky day.

In that you seem to be obsessed with some Platonic ideal of overkill shielding for its own sake, the "correct product" is a foil splicing tool.

I used to do shielding in zero-defects electronics and that's what they use. They're wildly overpriced at about ten bucks. I still have a few from the old days, but people say the easiest place to find them is at alarm supply places. They use them to patch window foil loops.

But if you can't do smart layout, magic foil and pro foil tools won't prevent a defective job -- and if you do smart layout, there's no point to any of that in the first place.

And you seem to be obsessed with doing a half-assed job. It's a nice guitar. I'm going to do a job that's worthy of it.

And I don't NEED to do "smart layout" (whatever that is). With conductive adhesive copper tape it will "just work".

What are you, from the Aluminum Marketing Board or something?