Cracked open SMORES - crisp outside, soft inside.

[Robby Sturgis]

Xploring the inside of this vented cabinet and found thick foam.

This is typical of S’mores, but a bass cabinet. Not sure?

 

[Bent77]

It was probably cost effective for Fender to use that

the real question is, why you are in there?
Unless the foam was the issue, I’d leave it be

 

[Robby Sturgis]

It was probably cost effective for Fender to use that

the real question is, why you are in there?
Unless the foam was the issue, I’d leave it be

haven’t touched it, I swear. Just surprised.

I cracked this open to test a new speaker in this Rumble 115.

https://www.amazon.com/Celestion-Pu...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01I7HZTOY

 

[Passinwind]

Xploring the inside of this vented cabinet and found thick foam.

This is typical of S’mores, but a bass cabinet. Not sure?

That's not foam, it's polyester batting, which is a very common damping material in speaker cabs.

 

[Downunderwonder]

Nice plywood!

 

[Rockbobmel]

In my Reeves 15s

 

[BurningSkies]

Yep. It's official. You have a bass speaker cabinet that someone did fairly right.

...you should be more concerned if you didn't see that.

 

[agedhorse]

I would be more concerned about slapping an unknown driver into the cabinet and expecting better performance.

 

[SactoBass]

haven’t touched it, I swear. Just surprised.

I cracked this open to test a new speaker in this Rumble 115.

https://www.amazon.com/Celestion-Pu...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01I7HZTOY

Robby: There is a reason why Andy said what he said in his post #8. I do not know how much you know about cab design and Thiele-Small parameters. At the risk of saying something that you may already know, the speaker (or speakers) of a cab, and the cab itself, are designed to work as a unit. If you decide to replace the stock speaker(s) with some other model of speaker(s), chances are quite good that the new speaker(s) and the existing cab's tuning (cab volume, port diameter and length, etc.) will not match. Google "Thiele-Small parameters" and read up on it if you are unfamiliar with TS parameters. And please forgive me if you already know about this stuff!

 

[Robby Sturgis]

Robby: There is a reason why Andy said what he said in his post #8. I do not know how much you know about cab design and Thiele-Small parameters. At the risk of saying something that you may already know, the speaker (or speakers) of a cab, and the cab itself, are designed to work as a unit. If you decide to replace the stock speaker(s) with some other model of speaker(s), chances are quite good that the new speaker(s) and the existing cab's tuning (cab volume, port diameter and length, etc.) will not match. Google "Thiele-Small parameters" and read up on it if you are unfamiliar with TS parameters. And please forgive me if you already know about this stuff!

Thanks for that advice. Your challenge has given me more knowledge than any other post since I joined recently. I found an article explaining that cabinet design is more mathematical than just sticking a speaker into a cabinet - which is what I did, on the advice of one other member. Others suggested I get another cabinet/speaker designed by professionals. Still others eloquently explained I wasn’t smart enough on my own. I am but a humble novice to the world of bass drivers and cabinets, and don’t have enough experience to know exactly what causes the “rumble” in a Fender Rumble 115, and was surprised that this Celestion speaker in the Rumble cabinet made the rumble go away. Is it the port design being inefficient, or is the speaker itself designed for a different response? Not sure, but I appreciate learning more from you. Thiele/Small parameters - Wikipedia

 

[Robby Sturgis]

I would be more concerned about slapping an unknown driver into the cabinet and expecting better performance.

There is probably no way for a humble bass cabinet owner to determine from the manufacturer a possible replacement speaker for a cabinet with an apparent blown speaker. The challenge seems overwhelming to this novice, but I’m trying to learn. Fender does not list the technical design parameters for empty cabinets and a range of parameters for speakers, Or at least I haven’t seen that on this. Invalid Link Removed

 

[MustangWally]

I have built more than my share of bass cabs over the years and (assuming that you using a known design) my take on the whole thing is this: make it really rigid. That means front to back bracing (Typically 2x4) and all corners screwed and glued at a minimum. You do not want any resonance or air leaks, outside of a designed port. Then fill the thing with batting and go move some air!

 

[agedhorse]

There is probably no way for a humble bass cabinet owner to determine from the manufacturer a possible replacement speaker for a cabinet with an apparent blown speaker. The challenge seems overwhelming to this novice, but I’m trying to learn. Fender does not list the technical design parameters for empty cabinets and a range of parameters for speakers, Or at least I haven’t seen that on this. Invalid Link Removed

That's why (good) speaker designers do the math to be sure that their choice of driver is suitable for the cabinet (and the cabinet's possible design variations) as well as the performance goals.

I have built more than my share of bass cabs over the years and (assuming that you using a known design) my take on the whole thing is this: make it really rigid. That means front to back bracing (Typically 2x4) and all corners screwed and glued at a minimum. You do not want any resonance or air leaks, outside of a designed port. Then fill the thing with batting and go move some air!

Well, knowing how to manage the cabinet's inherent structural parameters can be even more important. Complete rigidity is not the only way to skin the proverbial cat, nor is being brute force about it either. Otherwise, the cabinets will become too heavy to be practical for many players. I think there are quite a few examples of light weight cabinets that do not use brute force rigidity yet are well received and respected by higher level players. Of course this may cost more and require a better understanding of structural mechanics to do well, but it's entirely possible.

 

[BurningSkies]

That's why (good) speaker designers do the math to be sure that their choice of driver is suitable for the cabinet (and the cabinet's possible design variations) as well as the performance goals.



Well, knowing how to manage the cabinet's inherent structural parameters can be even more important. Complete rigidity is not the only way to skin the proverbial cat, nor is being brute force about it either. Otherwise, the cabinets will become too heavy to be practical for many players. I think there are quite a few examples of light weight cabinets that do not use brute force rigidity yet are well received and respected by higher level players. Of course this may cost more and require a better understanding of structural mechanics to do well, but it's entirely possible.

Came across this picture of one of my cabs...it's now been to over 400 shows and many more hours of rehearsal, rough handling and van life:

 

[agedhorse]

Not a 2 x 4 in sight either

 

[BurningSkies]

Not a 2 x 4 in sight either

Something like 400+ (?) shows from Maine & Vermont down to the Carolinas & Ohio, etc...on half inch plywood. Still killin' it every single night...this cab loaded and finished weighs in at somewhere around 50-55 pounds. Panel vibration is super minimal due to the bracing and build.

 

[MustangWally]

Came across this picture of one of my cabs

That is a work of art my friend, beautifully executed!

 

[pie_man_25]

Came across this picture of one of my cabs...it's now been to over 400 shows and many more hours of rehearsal, rough handling and van life:
View attachment 3618115

Is that your fEARful?

 

[BurningSkies]

Is that your fEARful?

It's my 'top' one...my 15/6. Though it's a slightly earlier design than what became formalized. Dave streamlined things like removing all the drill holes, etc. And this one has a port shelf extension for the ability to go a little lower if wanted. It also has an earlier variant of the crossover.

Here's the cab a little further down the line... with the fluffy stuff the OP was concerned about:

Note the entirely over-spec'ed crossover.

Here's the 15sub:

Again with the beef on the LPF:

 

[MustangWally]

Not a 2 x 4 in sight either

Heh, fair comment. I used 2x4 front to back bracing on 2 and 4 speaker cabs, placed in the center to reinforce the front baffle. Not important on a single 15" cab where there is no chance of that problem.

BTW: I admire your position with Mesa and Genz Benz, 2 of the best as I understand the current state of play. My knowledge is old now while you are at the cutting edge. More power to you my friend!