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Creating my first Warmoth
- Thread starter Alexander
- Start date
Personally, if I were going to go the Warmoth route, which I have considered a few times, I would give Nino a holler. He has had a lot of experience with doing this sort of thing.
It would at least be worth looking into. I know I have been tossing the idea around quite a bit lately, I just haven't talked to him yet. I am a serious procrastinator.
It would at least be worth looking into. I know I have been tossing the idea around quite a bit lately, I just haven't talked to him yet. I am a serious procrastinator.
Andy Brown
Commercial User
- Jul 23, 2004
- 5,675
- 312
- Disclosures
- Founder/Owner: Wing Instruments
NovusOrdo said:
Aboslutely no problem. The first time you apologized was plenty.
We just want to make sure the correct information is out there. No harm done.
i too have been strongly considering building a warmoth bass. only problem is that i want to build a 5-string mockingbird, and according to the email i received back from them, they won't re-route the neck pocket to fit a 5-string neck.
could someone with some experience here clue me in as to how difficult it would be to do this on my own? i'm fairly handy with power tools, but have never done something like this...
is this something you could or would do???
could someone with some experience here clue me in as to how difficult it would be to do this on my own? i'm fairly handy with power tools, but have never done something like this...
is this something you could or would do???
NovusOrdo said:
ROFLMAO, no harm, no foul... No apologies really necessary.
I've posted pics of my own warmoth bodied bass in this thread, so I've done this before, & knew what I was talking about. Besides, if you go to the warmoth showcase, you can SEE the holes in the pics they post. So,,, you didn't bug me, I just wondered *** were YOU talkin about... LOL...
Actually, we do offer pre-slotted corian nuts installed on all our necks as an option. I did the programming on the wee little CNC milling machine that cuts these. We do them one at a time, after the frets are installed. Trust me, they're quite good!KeithPas said:
You piped in before I could on your behalf.Nino-Brown said:
Nino has already quoted a P bass for me under his brand Valenti that is literally custom made to my order and the price itself came in only slightly more than it would be to buy just the parts from Warmoth and do the labour myself. (Most I can do myself, though some has been awhile so would really add to build time to get it right).
I may still build up a bass for myself and do it over time, getting one piece here and there until it is all done, it would be a fun project. But when the time comes that I am ready to open the wallet to get my dream P (just waiting on an inheritance to come in) I intend to just give Nino a ring and have him do it for me. His work seems A1 to me and it'll be made right, hassle free.
*psst* Hey Nino, does this endorsement of your products get me any kind of discount now?
bwbass said:Actually, we do offer pre-slotted corian nuts installed on all our necks as an option. I did the programming on the wee little CNC milling machine that cuts these. We do them one at a time, after the frets are installed. Trust me, they're quite good!
Thanks for correcting me on that bwbass. The pre-slotted nut is alot more convenient and cheap.
I got a warmouth neck and body and all the parts except for the pick-ups. Vintage 62 J neck fretless with lines and dots and i specificly specified Brazillian rosewood for the finger board.The body Alder but a bit on the heavy side. Its the standard alder j body.Warmouth finished the bass in Surf green with a matching headstock. with the green guard it looks stunning. I put antiquity 2's in there and the bass sounds killer.But i was unhappy with the chunkyness of the neck which many of there necks are. I had it shaved down as much as possible and its still not like a fender 62 j reissue neck or a real pre cbs one for that matter. I took it to a pro for assembly and for the clear casting resin treatment for the fingerboard. looks like shiny glass like a pudulla buzz bass. The bass definatley has the jaco sound as well as a funky ol jazz bass from the mid 60's. If any one wants to see it email me for [email protected]
Wise choice choosing Warmoth as the supplier for your 1st venture into bass building. I've been putting basses and guitars together for 20+ years and Warmoth is by far the most consistant parts source (necks and bodies). There's been some great advise given in this thread. The critical things I would recommend would be:
1) Bridge placement is critical. Too far forward or too far back will make it impossible to properly intonate your instument. To simplify this choose a bridge that Warmoth pre-drills for. Doesn't get any easier than that.
2) As others have mentioned, let Warmoth cut the nut for you. Unless you have experience (and the proper nut files) this can be a difficult job. A properly cut nut is critical to playability and proper intonation.
3) Unless you have a great deal of experience at soldering and reading a schematic/wiring diagram, purchase a pre-wired preamp. Usually all you have to do is connect the P/U's and bridge ground (if applicable).
4) If you want a gloss finish and haven't done finishing work, let Warmoth finish the body and neck. They are actually very affordable too. If you prefer the oil finishes: go for it! All it takes is following the directions and lots of patients!
5) Don't drill any holes without using a drill stop to prevent drilling through the other side. You can make one out of various diameters of copper pipe (depending on the drill bit diameter).
Good luck!
1) Bridge placement is critical. Too far forward or too far back will make it impossible to properly intonate your instument. To simplify this choose a bridge that Warmoth pre-drills for. Doesn't get any easier than that.
2) As others have mentioned, let Warmoth cut the nut for you. Unless you have experience (and the proper nut files) this can be a difficult job. A properly cut nut is critical to playability and proper intonation.
3) Unless you have a great deal of experience at soldering and reading a schematic/wiring diagram, purchase a pre-wired preamp. Usually all you have to do is connect the P/U's and bridge ground (if applicable).
4) If you want a gloss finish and haven't done finishing work, let Warmoth finish the body and neck. They are actually very affordable too. If you prefer the oil finishes: go for it! All it takes is following the directions and lots of patients!
5) Don't drill any holes without using a drill stop to prevent drilling through the other side. You can make one out of various diameters of copper pipe (depending on the drill bit diameter).
Good luck!
