• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Crimes Against Cabs - Rehab Help Request

Any progress with the cab?

Why yes... I got the grille off and speakers out. For some reason the upload file feature isn't working from the app on my phone so I'll add them later.

So the reason I used wood screws for the bottom speakers and not the existing studs is.... The studs were removed. They're MIA. AWOL.

I found teenuts at the hardware store after work today so I have a good source close at hand.
 
Why yes... I got the grille off and speakers out. For some reason the upload file feature isn't working from the app on my phone so I'll add them later.

So the reason I used wood screws for the bottom speakers and not the existing studs is.... The studs were removed. They're MIA. AWOL.

I found teenuts at the hardware store after work today so I have a good source close at hand.
Looking forward to pics.:thumbsup:
 
I hate T nuts. Only way I'd use t-nuts is if I had no access to the interior. They cross thread, push out, spin...it's a pain.

Since you already have the back off, just use a good panhead screw and nuts with a lock washer or aircraft nuts. See if 1/4-20 will fit, with a #3 Phillips head. You can put a vice grip on the nuts to hold them while you tighten the screws if you can't reach both sides by yourself.
 
I hate T nuts. Only way I'd use t-nuts is if I had no access to the interior. They cross thread, push out, spin...it's a pain.

Since you already have the back off, just use a good panhead screw and nuts with a lock washer or aircraft nuts. See if 1/4-20 will fit, with a #3 Phillips head. You can put a vice grip on the nuts to hold them while you tighten the screws if you can't reach both sides by yourself.

T-nuts, installed properly with the correct tools and hole sizes, are very reliable. We see very few problems and we have probably used several million T-nuts over the years...
 
So the bottom speaker was attached but not very well. The crossheads were stripped on half of them; pliers and determination to the rescue. I've done some hacky things over the years and own up to every one of them but this really disappoints me. No matter though, chin up, everything's on the mend now.

I have some rusty staples available *right now* for a low LOW price if anyone wants to take their tetanus shot for a spin, just lemmeeno. *International shipping rates apply.*

IMG_20170927_195057363-2.jpg


IMG_20170927_185612136-2.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Michael Schreiber
It looks like the cabinet, including the speaker baffle is particle board (MDF).

If so, you’ll have problems with the T-nuts. The tapered t-nut barbs will not hold well in MDF.

There is a product called a hurricane nut that can be used. It is important to follow the installation instructions. Plywood is way better for the baffle.


View attachment 2766381

Thank you, I'll look for those. Tee nuts look like they're for being pulled in by the bolt, I don't know how deep they'd penetrate in MDF before the bolt snapped? (That's Foreshadowing, read on)

Those are Romex staples, also not good in MDF and particle board

Yeah, it's really obvious on the inside that they pushed some chips out pretty badly. I'll remove the broken bits and look again tomorrow.

So I said the studs were MIA and AWOL... Once I turned the thing around and looked at the front I realized they were QUITE present, just snapped off. See attached pictures.

There is absolutely no way I did that. That's just not something I could do and leave behind. Not no way, not no how.

On a brighter note: I might be able to reuse the factory holes. We shall see.

Thanks again for the input, keep it coming!

IMG_20170927_210709970~2.jpg

IMG_20170927_210810248~2.jpg
 
Oh, and welcome to TB.

@Cardinal Fang : Yeah, welcome to TB! \m/


Anybody else think it's weird that the drivers are mounted on the back of the baffle?

The drivers I know can be mounted either way. I prefered back mounting (rear loading) my Celestion, since the driver has a cork ring on the front, so the driver's metal basket doesn't touch the baffle wood directly. May not make a difference in sound, though.

However, front loading might be preferable for easier access when the driver needs to be changed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cardinal Fang
T nuts are not pulled in by the screw, they are pressed in.

If I end up reusing the baffle I have a C clamp out in the garage I can use to press them in. Just have to be careful about keeping them square with the baffle surface, not press them in crooked. The barrel on the tee nuts I saw yesterday were long enough to help guide it in the hole.
 
The drivers I know can be mounted either way. I prefered back mounting (rear loading) my Celestion, since the driver has a cork ring on the front, so the driver's metal basket doesn't touch the baffle wood directly. May not make a difference in sound, though.

However, front loading might be preferable for easier access when the driver needs to be changed.
Almost every driver manufactured in the last 20 years has a rear gasket, so there is no disadvantage to from loading... and lots of advantages.
 
Almost every driver manufactured in the last 20 years has a rear gasket, so there is no disadvantage to from loading... and lots of advantages.

Mine don't... but it wouldn't be rocket science to add one, I admit :D
I see it's more practial when swapping drivers (easier access to front loaded ones).
Are other advantages, from your experience?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cardinal Fang
If I end up reusing the baffle I have a C clamp out in the garage I can use to press them in. Just have to be careful about keeping them square with the baffle surface, not press them in crooked. The barrel on the tee nuts I saw yesterday were long enough to help guide it in the hole.

If you put the swivel end of the clamp oposit the nut, the nut shouldnt go to nuts on you.

Just a bit of PL wood glue or gorilla glue in the hole and on the flange will help them stay put. Both, like diomonds and herpies are forever.

Plywood replacement makes fasteners hold better, but with the rest being MDF, not much other difference. MDF is very good from a sonic perspective.

The sewing shop also has foam bed tops with open cells and egg crate shape on one side. Probably as good or better than polyfill. Easier to glue on. I got some to use but sadly, became new foam for our bar stools.
 
Mine don't... but it wouldn't be rocket science to add one, I admit :D
I see it's more practial when swapping drivers (easier access to front loaded ones).
Are other advantages, from your experience?
Removable panels necessary for back mounted drivers can seriously weaken the enclosure.