Danelectro Owners Club

[mongo2]

Yep, that's it. After watching it again I now think that it is indeed a Danno Longhorn. Probably Pro model, looks like an upgraded bridge too.

I have the Pro model and it has tuners with larger paddles and the adjustable saddle bridge. The Longhorn in the video has what looks to me to be the smaller button tuners and the adjustable saddle bridge. The adjustable saddle bridge has been readily available on the aftermarket for a long time.

 

[CharlyG]

my Longhorn is to the left.

 

[danosix]

After watching that clip again last night I'm now not so sure that it isn't a Danno after all. Definitely had double lipstick pickups, the logo on the tuner head looked like it could have been the Danelectro logo but never could get a clear view of that. Looked like upgraded tuners so it could be the Pro model but never got a good look at the bridge. Looked like the normal binding around the outside of the body too.

A couple of the things that throw me on identifying the bass - the body looked larger to me than normal and the neck looked longer than short scale. However the bass player wasn't any physically larger than Prince and he was a physically fairly small guy I'm told so that would be one thing. Secondly she was slapping it some (great slap sound) which is doable with a Danno but I never thought of my LH as something I'd use for slap much (don't slap much anyway though so...).

Yeah - the bass in question is certainly a Danelectro - it does look weird because she is SO tiny it makes it look like a big bass. It's a 99/00 "pro model" with the adjustable bride and cast tuners - which are part of why the headstock looks off - they seem to clash with the shape - the main reason I never changed my tuners (before they wee old enough to be "interesting was because I didn't want to wreck the look with ast tuners and there weren't for the longest time fake klusons that had the right combination of plastic knobs and 2+2 (3+3 for y bass 6) arrangement (at least in my neck of the woods which was pretty woodsy until recently).

The other possibility - though I can't imagine someone doing this - is it's one of those hollywood fake guitars rock starts get made to leave thie vintage guitars at home (or in the case of Slash, because they can't find a truly good Les Paul) - it seems unlikely since even ifyou did I to get better woods and construction - you'd just go out and get a Jerry Jones for a LOT less than one of those one-off customs would cost.

 

[danosix]

Yep, that's it. After watching it again I now think that it is indeed a Danno Longhorn. Probably Pro model, looks like an upgraded bridge too. Love the punch and snap she's getting out of it. Anyone happen to know who the bass player is, name? She's good.




Mines a '98 with same concentric pots so pointers came later than that I'd guess FWIW.

The pointers came out on the RE-re-issue in 2009(?) whenever they started with the ture copper burst ones after not producing any longhorn for a number of years.

 

[CharlyG]

Yup, I have an 09. They called it the Dead On Reissue at the time, if I'm not mistaken.

 

[danosix]

Yup, I have an 09. They called it the Dead On Reissue at the time, if I'm not mistaken.

Yep - that's the one.

 

[EdO.]

Anyone happen to know who the bass player is, name? She's good.

If anyone cares. From Wickipedia -

Ida Kristine Nielsen, also known as Bassida and Ida Funkhouser, is a Danish bassplayer, composer and vocalist.

Nielsen started playing bass at age 16. From 1993-1998 she studied at The Royal Danish Academy of Music and finished her diploma with e-bass as her major instrument.

She is known for being a member of several bands, such as Zap Mama, MLTR, 3rdeyegirl and The New Power Generation (the last two were backing bands for Prince).

In 2007 she released her only solo album called Marmelade.

 

[ATLbassist]

I posted a picture a long time ago in another thread, so I guess I should go for an official post here. I used to have an MIC Dead-On '58 Longhorn. It sounded great, but never felt quite right. Then I traded locally for an MIK Longhorn Pro. That was the right move - the look and sound I wanted with improved feel. I had Chromes on it for awhile, but switched last year to half-rounds (my preferred string) for some more zing. Here 'tis:

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I wanted something a little different in the pickguard, so I added a pearloid one from an eBay seller.

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

A previous owner replaced the tuners with Hipshot Ultralites. They stick out a bit further than I'd like and look a little goofy; but when you play a Longhorn, I think goofy is part of the package! (They'are also great for reducing neck dive on a such a light bass.)

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I haven't played this one in awhile, but my urge to clean it up and tinker is rising. So I have a couple of questions for you fellow Dano players. I have the height screws as low as they can go without expanding the holes in the body. The action still seems a bit high, except for low F where it's buzzing slightly. I plan to shim the neck, but there's also the famous Danelectro bridge sag:

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I want to take off the saddles and straighten out the plate. Are there any recommended methods? I was thinking of pressing it between pieces of wood using c-clamps. If that's the way, how long should it set? (I don't really want to go for the drilling/thumbscrew method as I lack the tools and expertise.)

Also, I like the more recent knobs that have embedded metal beads so you can quickly see the settings. I tried to drill mine and glue in small nails, but the ones on the tone controls keep falling off.

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I want to replace them outright. Is there a DIY on how to remove and replace the knobs?

 

[danosix]

I posted a picture a long time ago in another thread, so I guess I should go for an official post here. I used to have an MIC Dead-On '58 Longhorn. It sounded great, but never felt quite right. Then I traded locally for an MIK Longhorn Pro. That was the right move - the look and sound I wanted with improved feel. I had Chromes on it for awhile, but switched last year to half-rounds (my preferred string) for some more zing. Here 'tis:

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I wanted something a little different in the pickguard, so I added a pearloid one from an eBay seller.

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

A previous owner replaced the tuners with Hipshot Ultralites. They stick out a bit further than I'd like and look a little goofy; but when you play a Longhorn, I think goofy is part of the package! (They'are also great for reducing neck dive on a such a light bass.)

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I haven't played this one in awhile, but my urge to clean it up and tinker is rising. So I have a couple of questions for you fellow Dano players. I have the height screws as low as they can go without expanding the holes in the body. The action still seems a bit high, except for low F where it's buzzing slightly. I plan to shim the neck, but there's also the famous Danelectro bridge sag:

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I want to take off the saddles and straighten out the plate. Are there any recommended methods? I was thinking of pressing it between pieces of wood using c-clamps. If that's the way, how long should it set? (I don't really want to go for the drilling/thumbscrew method as I lack the tools and expertise.)

Also, I like the more recent knobs that have embedded metal beads so you can quickly see the settings. I tried to drill mine and glue in small nails, but the ones on the tone controls keep falling off.

Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr

I want to replace them outright. Is there a DIY on how to remove and replace the knobs?

The BEST way is a Vice with wood to protect the metal from scratches/gouges.
But the metal is quite soft so you can use almost anything - I straightened mine out a couple of bricks and my foot (literally just stepped on it) - whatever you use, wood, whatever, tape the chrome first.
Also, put a 2 dimes (stacked) on the back (bottom) in the middle and on each screw hole on the front (over the tape to prevent gouges) to help the metal bend far enough to end up straight - obviously shims work too - but dimes or quarters are just about the right size and thickness to do the job right.
If you want to be REALLY careful some heavy paper (like craft paper) on the metal under the tape (obviously there needs to be enough contact with the tape to keep things from moving) can help.

 

[mongo2]

The BEST way is a Vice with wood to protect the metal from scratches/gouges.
But the metal is quite soft so you can use almost anything - I straightened mine out a couple of bricks and my foot (literally just stepped on it) - whatever you use, wood, whatever, tape the chrome first.
Also, put a 2 dimes (stacked) on the back (bottom) in the middle and on each screw hole on the front (over the tape to prevent gouges) to help the metal bend far enough to end up straight - obviously shims work too - but dimes or quarters are just about the right size and thickness to do the job right.
If you want to be REALLY careful some heavy paper (like craft paper) on the metal under the tape (obviously there needs to be enough contact with the tape to keep things from moving) can help.

I bend a saggy bridge plate so there's a slight arch at the front edge of the plate. That way the string pressure forces the bridge plate flat. I haven't had one treated this way sag again.

 

[ATLbassist]

I bend a saggy bridge plate so there's a slight arch at the front edge of the plate. That way the string pressure forces the bridge plate flat. I haven't had one treated this way sag again.

I was thinking about that, too. I'll try putting an extra dime under the bottom/center. I was also thinking of putting a small piece of wood under the bridge once it's re-installed to prevent future sag. Hopefully with the neck shim in I can keep the plate relatively flat and a little higher.

Any thoughts on knob replacement? Is it just a matter of prying them off? I've never done this with stacked knobs before.

 

[mongo2]

I was thinking about that, too. I'll try putting an extra dime under the bottom/center. I was also thinking of putting a small piece of wood under the bridge once it's re-installed to prevent future sag. Hopefully with the neck shim in I can keep the plate relatively flat and a little higher.

Any thoughts on knob replacement? Is it just a matter of prying them off? I've never done this with stacked knobs before.

Sorry, I've never felt the need to replace the knobs, but on others with press fit knobs I usually use a spoon and a piece of cardboard under it to protect the finish and pry them off bit by bit while rotating the knob.

 

[danosix]

I was thinking about that, too. I'll try putting an extra dime under the bottom/center. I was also thinking of putting a small piece of wood under the bridge once it's re-installed to prevent future sag. Hopefully with the neck shim in I can keep the plate relatively flat and a little higher.

Any thoughts on knob replacement? Is it just a matter of prying them off? I've never done this with stacked knobs before.

I think they're a weirdo pot (skinny shafts) though so you might have a problem finding your choice of knobs.
But as you say - there's a look to longhorns - they're part of it.

 

[mcgreivey]

Some people add a third screw in the middle of the front of the plate. I've never done that myself, but some have done it.

My solution is to replace the bridge with a better Jerry Jones bridge. No bending ever.

 

[danosix]

Some people add a third screw in the middle of the front of the plate. I've never done that myself, but some have done it.

My solution is to replace the bridge with a better Jerry Jones bridge. No bending ever.

Not an option anymore alas.

 

[ATLbassist]

I think they're a weirdo pot (skinny shafts) though so you might have a problem finding your choice of knobs.
But as you say - there's a look to longhorns - they're part of it.

Here's what I want - same knob type but with the embedded markers.

PK-3161-000 Stacked Knob for Danelectro® Guitars

 

[danosix]

Here's what I want - same knob type but with the embedded markers.

PK-3161-000 Stacked Knob for Danelectro® Guitars

Well, yeah that should fit (seeing a it notn only looks like the same knob but says it's for them. I like that little thing-y - but I'm too cheap to spend $40 for knobs (19x2).
I wonder if you couldn't find a couple of ball bearings and super-glue them in place.

 

[ATLbassist]

I like that little thing-y - but I'm too cheap to spend $40 for knobs (19x2).
I wonder if you couldn't find a couple of ball bearings and super-glue them in place.

I tried that by cutting off the heads of small nails, but you can see where they kept coming off the tone knob. But I'm going the ultimate cheap route: cashing in credit card reward points for a gift card and getting the knobs off Amazon. The seller (Arkansas Music Works) already confirmed that the knobs have the markers even though they aren't in the photo. (They're on eBay, too.)

 

[brettus1963]

Hey guys, I've just picked up a Seafoam Green Longhorn bass and wondering if or where I can get a White Pearloid Pickguard. I couldn't find any on eBay.

Any suggestions?

 

[mcgreivey]

Not an option anymore alas.

They do pop up on ebay. I just scored one a couple months ago.

Some actual Danelectro ones may be made of better stuff. Are recent ones better? I hope so.