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Danelectro Owners Club

I think with the Danelectro Longhorn that I will try the 760FX-S La Bella Deep Talking Bass strings (39, 56, 77, 96) rather than the 760FD La Bella ones made for Danelectro basses (42, 53, 60, 79). I want it to sound as deep and thumpy as possible and the Danelectro strings seem too lightweight for that sound. From reading the posts in the Danelectro Owners Club it looks like the hole in the E post needs to be made bigger to take that whopping E string as I do not want to change the tuners.

I've read several similar posts, but I've never had a problem with the .100 D'Addario E strings - both Chromes and half-rounds. The ends fit fine through the posts and I don't think they'd been drilled out before I got there.

The only issue recently was with the winding not fitting through the stick bridge, but a few snips with some sewing scissors took care of that. Note that this never happened on my adjustable bridge; maybe this style has wider holes.
 
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You could fill the gaps with clear or close colour nail polish (it goes on thicker than other similar paints) this won't look wonderful but it'll be under the tape.

Thanks for the tip! That sounds a lot easier than buying a can of wood sealant. My plan is to fill the divot, sand and apply new tape. My hope is that I'll have enough to avoid stretching it and thus avoid future pulling away from the body.

Beautiful Dano! That is my favorite finish of all the Danos! I am officially jealous!

Thanks very much! Even better is that it came with a color-matched Levy strap. The dark blue winding on the Chromes completes the package.
 
I've read several similar posts, but I've never had a problem with the .100 D'Addario E strings - both Chromes and half-rounds. The ends fit fine through the posts and I don't think they'd been drilled out before I got there.

The only issue recently was with the winding not fitting through the stick bridge, but a few snips with some sewing scissors took care of that. Note that this never happened on my adjustable bridge; maybe this style has wider holes.

What color silks are on those La Bellas? (The 760FX-S an the 760FD set) I've got some with light blue silks that were on the bass when I bought it.

Here's a photo, kinda hard to see the silk color:

IMG_8098_zpsurgaydov.jpg
 
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Thanks for the tip! That sounds a lot easier than buying a can of wood sealant. My plan is to fill the divot, sand and apply new tape. My hope is that I'll have enough to avoid stretching it and thus avoid future pulling away from the body.



Thanks very much! Even better is that it came with a color-matched Levy strap. The dark blue winding on the Chromes completes the package.
No problem - it definitely works - I got a nasty divot on the back of my 6 string bass's neck. I built up a couple of layers of clear then sanded it down - no problem - nt invisible, but stable and relatively inconspicuous one it wore down to a shine.
 
I just put LaBella light shortscale flat (.104) DTB
strings on my longhorn. Sound really good. I didn't have to drill the tuning peg on the low E, but did have to tug a bit and lost a tiny bit of silk (which can happen anyway).
The DTB light silks are orange, like my copper burst bass :)

I think mine is a Korean reissue reissue.
 
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I finally found the missing piece of my tonal puzzle: pickup height. For the longest time I've been wondering why i couldn't bring the pickups higher on my DC Bass, but I've found the solution at last: tape! I adjust the screws until my pickups are where i want them and then i tape the screws heads against the back of the body, holding the pickups at that set height. So simple and low tech! Though this isn't exactly an elegant solution, it works, and I fell in love with my bass all over again last night when I did it. Now I don't need so much boost to be heard with my light touch, and playing is much less of a struggle (and struggle doesn't sound good)
 
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I finally found the missing piece of my tonal puzzle: pickup height. For the longest time I've been wondering why i couldn't bring the pickups higher on my DC Bass, but I've found the solution at last: tape! I adjust the screws until my pickups are where i want them and then i tape the screws heads against the back of the body, holding the pickups at that set height. So simple and low tech! Though this isn't exactly an elegant solution, it works, and I fell in love with my bass all over again last night when I did it. Now I don't need so much boost to be heard with my light touch, and playing is much less of a struggle (and struggle doesn't sound good)

I took my Longhorn out to a gig this past weekend, got lots of compliments afterwards on the tone. They are fun!
 
Question for the Dano experts: What's the best way to remove the stock, plastic strap buttons? They don't appear to screw in. My replacement tape arrived yesterday but I can't get all the old tape off because I can't get the buttons out.

Not sure but I think they might actually be glued in. The neck-side strap button on my Longhorn has pulled out before and I just pushed it back in. The bass is so light that there isn't much pull on it.
 
One of mine practically fell out! They are pressed in at the minimum and maybe glued also, although mine didn't appear to have glue. You may be able to wrap it with a rag, grab a pair of pliers and carefully try to twist it back and forth and hopefully they will loosen up and you can pull them out. That's all I got, so no guarantees on this! Try at your own risk!
 
Question for the Dano experts: What's the best way to remove the stock, plastic strap buttons? They don't appear to screw in. My replacement tape arrived yesterday but I can't get all the old tape off because I can't get the buttons out.
Use side cutters to grip under the button and pull they are just friction fit acoustic pins (assuming a previous owner didn,t glue them).
But enen if they are glued they should come out since nothing really bonds well to both plastic and wood.
 
Use side cutters to grip under the button and pull they are just friction fit acoustic pins (assuming a previous owner didn,t glue them).
But enen if they are glued they should come out since nothing really bonds well to both plastic and wood.

I tried this. One button came out just fine, but the other sheared off at the body. @#$#!!!

Next steps: Drill out the remaining shaft, fill the holes with toothpicks and wood glue, and get some metal strap buttons. I guess I should have been thinking along these lines anyway.
 
I tried this. One button came out just fine, but the other sheared off at the body. @#$#!!!

Next steps: Drill out the remaining shaft, fill the holes with toothpicks and wood glue, and get some metal strap buttons. I guess I should have been thinking along these lines anyway.
Yeah, once you put the drill to it - use a small bit - it should just come out onto the bit.
But real buttons are more functional anyway - I did that to my first longhorn.
Also if you're using real buttons you can put the one in the horn for more natural hanging position - they're solid there. Just be careful when drilling the hole so it doesn't come out the side.
 
Is that a fender strat/tele case that it fits in?
If you're asking if that case is - well maybe the OP will respond - but they certainly DO fit Strat/telecases - but not vintage style Fender ones as they angle the guitar - I f I had to guess that's an original Danelectro case - but there are million tweed/orange cases out there which look identical when open.
 
Is that a fender strat/tele case that it fits in?
If you're asking if that case is - well maybe the OP will respond - but they certainly DO fit Strat/telecases - but not vintage style Fender ones as they angle the guitar - I f I had to guess that's an original Danelectro case - but there are million tweed/orange cases out there which look identical when open.

I thought that too, but the SKB strat case I bought didn't fit, the Longhorn was too wide for it. I ended up ordering a case from an eBay seller who said their cases fit Longhorns, and it did indeed.
 
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