• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Darkglass DG112N Blown speakers

that's the perfect story on why you want cabs to have more watts rating than your head. someone might accidentally max the amp out and it might be a very expensive error. if you were able to max out the cabs with a twice less powerful head, well, it's surely possible you've overpowered the cabs and melted the speakers. and yes, going from 500W to 1000W is only +3dB, it's not that much, more cabs or more efficient cabs instead of yours could make you louder than pushing those whopping watts.

this said, your volume when it happened should have been under 130dB, that's quite a lot, I hope, you had some ear protection.

there might have been other collateral damage to speakers if the voice coil melted. a safe bet would be two new speakers, the same as original. or bring it to tech that can diagnose it. and the next step would be probably to sell them and get something more effective and/or able to take more power. come on, it's only a pair of sub-compact 1x12 cabs, that's not much.

I'm not sure, why Darkglass specced them at whopping 500W, but my experience with the modern neo 112 cabs is that I can fart them out with notes on a low B even with 150W RMS. if we're talking Barefaced that would be another story, but we're not and frankly I'm not surprised, a pair of those didn't withstand a kilowatt pushed in them.
Yea, a thousand watts into two 12"s sounds like a mismatch and recipe for smoke.
 
  • Like
Reactions: agedhorse and BOOG
Do you know for certain the speakers are shot? You could also have damaged the input/crossover plate which makes a little better sense, when things cooled down after the gig metal parts contract breaking connection. Carefully remove a speaker and test it with a 1 1/2 volt battery, if the cone moves with only a tick/thump/pop and no scratchiness your speakers are the wrong place to look.
 
Since the input plate does not have a LPF for the woofers, an input panel failure would be extremely rare.
 
You are the last person I expect to ignore a diagnostic process and ass-u-me Andy? Do you have an intimate knowledge of the Darkglass cabinet that makes it unworthy of proper procedure?
Yes, when there’s no LPF, there’s nothing but copper between the jack and the speakers, which makes this kind of failure extremely unlikely.

Given the conditions the gear was being used under, the sheer abuse level involved, when you hear the sound of hooves you don’t go looking for zebras.

The information the OP provided in his initial post reinforces the likelihood of this too, perhaps you missed this? (See the next post, the new format prevents inserting it in this post)
 
Last edited:
I use one DG112N and a Mesa Subway D800 (and ear protection), but also have a Broughton HPF / LPF which is great so as to not push a mess of output to this speaker that it can't handle. I almost returned the cab until I engaged those filters as I felt this cab had way too much bottom tuning. With some serious shaping of the top and bottom and using a Broughton SV-PRE I love what this cab can do. The sensitivity is 95db so it needs more power and was not a good combination to drive a second 12 I had that was way more efficient and got way out of balance fast. I can confirm the speaker is not an off the shelf, but is a cast frame with a heavy duty heat sink reminiscent of the cast frame Kappalites I've used in the past. I had a screw with a loose Teenut so I had to open the cab up, but didn't see any model number on, just some numbers somewhere on the cone. I would think any serious speaker reconing service or Darkglass could recone and replace the voice coils and get these going again.