Devil Magnum

[JIO]

Lots done today - first off, drilled for the neck bolts. The Ovation neck has threaded inserts for machine bolts. I had some flat hex-head bolts that were compatible. Of course had to open the inset ferrule hole to allow for the bolt, as well as widen the scallop..

So far, so good.

Deep bevel router bit for some edge-sculpting -

Upper horn Dunlop strap peg insert -

Front view of the upper horn -

Sculpted heal - deeper on the underside, less so on the top.

Angled ledge for string-thru ferrules. Body-thru cutouts in progress -

In progress -

etc... not doing a belly bevel. I could add one but because it's already pretty sculpted - frankly it would be overkill.

 

[JIO]

String-thru ferrule alignment -

Could have used the smaller ferrules - but have always liked these '51 P jumbo sized ferrules. Very retro-rocket/hot-rod. The milling is pretty crude so I'm sanding/polishing/getting them more refined (as first two from left) Also added the lower strap-peg flush so when engaged with the Dunlop strap the body stands upright.

 

[JIO]

7lbs/2oz - Darkstar pu, HS bridge, electronics/knobs, string-thru ferrules, and strings will add some weight, but lookin' like a very comfy +/- 8lbs. Balances well as is, and will balance even better after the added weight of the bridge/pu. The arch of the upper horn ergonomically comforts to your body and the lower horn curve provides a very nice interface with ones leg. (it's flat where it rests on your leg) Add to that 100% access to the 20th fret and you have a bass that meets every criteria for instrument/player (happy!) relationship.

 

[Bleecker]

7lbs/2oz - Darkstar pu, HS bridge, electronics/knobs, string-thru ferrules, and strings will add some weight, but lookin' like a very comfy +/- 8lbs. Balances well as is, and will balance even better after the added weight of the bridge/pu. The arch of the upper horn ergonomically comforts to your body and the lower horn curve provides a very nice interface with ones leg. (it's flat where it rests on your leg) Add to that 100% access to the 20th fret and you have a bass that meets every criteria for instrument/player (happy!) relationship.

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So cool!

 

[JIO]

correction - not 7lbs/2oz... 6lbs/2oz

 

[JIO]

Next step - bridge location/installation. Gotta get it right the first time so much measuring, remeasuring and remeasuring again until every measurement is in synchonistic alignment. Then, once the bridge post holes are drilled - the final fussing begins getting string-thru channels drilled for each string to their ferrules at the correct angle from the bridge. I did it once so I'm hoping I can do it again!

 

[JIO]

The Devil Bass has such a unique personality! For me, it looks like a Buddha in its contemplative symmetry. Well, the Ampeg version anyway... mine still has something visually referential to a squatting monk...

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Your Devil Bass looks like the young son who grew up in the '90's. The family blood is there, with some youthful crazy attitude. I like it, a nice design.

My only criticism is the corners of the upper pickguard. I'd bring them in closer to the neck, with a slight curve on the sides. Those straight lines mess with the beauty of all the other curves. The lower pickguard looks great.

 

[Jon Clegg]

I agree with Bruce; there's something just a tiny bit off with the upper pickguard that doesn't quite fit with the top of the lower pickguard. That being said, this is an awesome looking bass.

 

[Reedt2000]

I see the Buddha thing, but my first thought was with the bumps on the lower bout it reminds me of Patrick Starr

 

[Slidlow]

Make the sides of the upper guard concave aligning with the convex of the lower and then ending closer to the sides of the neck.

 

[Beej]

I suspect that upper pg is just not finished yet.

 

[JIO]

Your Devil Bass looks like the young son who grew up in the '90's. The family blood is there, with some youthful crazy attitude. I like it, a nice design.

My only criticism is the corners of the upper pickguard. I'd bring them in closer to the neck, with a slight curve on the sides. Those straight lines mess with the beauty of all the other curves. The lower pickguard looks great.

Great eyes see alike! I was going to round-off the upper corners of the upper pg to soften the tips but adding a subtle curve on the sides is exactly the approach needed. On the fence about adding the symmetric finger rests. I personally play over the pu or lower and rarely at the heal so it would be more of an aesthetic consideration based on referencing the Ampeg DB.

 

[ctmullins]

... On the fence about adding the symmetric finger rests.

Some wise dude somewhere said something cool about form and function being joined at the hip. Or something like that. I dunno, I saw it in a sig somewhere....

 

[JIO]

Some wise dude somewhere said something cool about form and function being joined at the hip. Or something like that. I dunno, I saw it in a sig somewhere....

Yah, that guy was Wright as rain. I mean, I could do the finger rests as the bass will be for sale to someone who might play at the heal as many players do. Options could include curved ebony, clear lucite, or gold-leafed wood. (visually related to the Ovation hs decal) Lot's to do in the meantime.

 

[JIO]

mo-better

 

[JIO]

String-thru channel layout - I will create a drill-bit guide that fits in the 1/2"deep ferrule holes so the angle is consistent/true. If all my calculations are correct, the exit holes should be right where the bridges 5/16" cut-outs under each saddle.

 

[Slidlow]

String-thru channel layout - I will create a drill-bit guide that fits in the 1/2"deep ferrule holes so the angle is consistent/true. If all my calculations are correct, the exit holes should be right where the bridges 5/16" cut-outs under each saddle.

View attachment 4206889

Just a thought but if the strings angle up where they exit the body you may have an issue with them splitting the wood and lifting the pickguard? I think you need a straight shot to the saddle?

 

[JIO]

Just a thought but if the strings angle up where they exit the body you may have an issue with them splitting the wood and lifting the pickguard? I think you need a straight shot to the saddle?

I've already made a mock-up and as long as the pg is tight against the wood it exits at a clean oval. I will use pg screws where I will later drill the post-holes to keep it tight. But, having done this I will take the added precaution to see the exit holes in the wood before pushing through the pg, as I can align pg holes from a possibly not perfect aligned set of wood-exit holes.

 

[Slidlow]

I've already made a mock-up and as long as the pg is tight against the wood it exits at a clean oval. I will use pg screws where I will later drill the post-holes to keep it tight. But, having done this I will take the added precaution to see the exit holes in the wood before pushing through the pg, as I can align pg holes from a possibly not perfect aligned set of wood-exit holes.

I saw your drawing which is why I raised the question.